AdamB

Yeah your right Ryan, the longer the nose the longer the cam essentially "dwells" at max lift. I would be more interested in the LSA and rate of lift of the cam than duration, one of the reasons I will stay away from reground cams. Turbo engines work fine with quite a range of cam specs, but as soon as you step out of that boundary they are the most fussy. Also with lift, like I said before, it needs to be measured at the valve head rather than the cam lobe.

Well why don't you get a DTI out and measure them then? Rather than suspecting that the height from base to nose is the be all and end all of cam specifications because it means nothing. Infact even cam duration and lift don't mean much! I know the guy is from another country, but do you not think that there has been more people than just yourself that have had a pair or a few pairs of 4EFE, 4EFTE, 5EFE and 5EFHE cams pass through their hands? Do you not think that after the release of the starlet some 24 years later someone would have figured out if the cams were different? Jeez man I

Have you already adjusted one side? If you have then adjust the other as best you can or you'll get un-even tyre wear. I'd suggest leaving it till you get the alignment done though.

S3's arrn't all that quick, pretty slow infact, they are very restricted unless modified.

Makes a change for Nengun

Luck of the draw really and depends how much you value your engine at?

Cracked exhaust manifold mate. They tend to make a squeeling noise.

M9, but they are very easy to round off so you could knock a M10 in there if you get stuck. I'd look at getting 1/2 rather than 3/8 as well.

The problem is with that is you can't adjust the frequency, so you could end up picking up electrical interference etc.

For sale: Zisco uprated valve springs Item Condition: Brand new Price and price conditions: £240 + 4% if paying by paypal Extra Info: Bought these from Keith around a year ago, have only opened the packaging slightly for pictures on the one valve spring and to count they are all there, which they are x 16. Pictures: Contact Details: PM on here, post Location: Oxford Delivery & Conditions of Delivery: Included in price, can be collected

Can make your own for a few quid mate, you just need a Piezo element. Me and Grant where talking about this on another thread before.

Fair play for trying mate, I would still get a DTI on them if they look physically different, but what kinda difference the naked eye can see I don't know. Imo the cams should always be checked and dialed in when building a motor (if thats what your doing).

Starlet day down at Bruntingthorpe?

The sportif doesn't come with a rev counter mate. The sportif probably is an easy swap but if your looking for a rev counter it doesn't have one. Starlet CD/Paseo/Glanza dials fit with some wire moving from what I've seen, all have a rev counter.

The differences can be found here, and as stated the FHE cams are the only ones with a difference with increased intake duration G:\Starlet GT\Engine20comparison.gif I don't have a cam handy with me at the moment to measure but I will when I can get hold of one, possibly tomorrow. I just don't see how the height of the cam lobe makes a difference tbh, because the base can be any shape or size and the duration could still be 224 degrees. Here's an anotation of a cam lobe and you can see what parts of the lobe undertake what job. The heel/base is where there is no lift or duration, and

Just because the part numbers are different it doesn't mean the specifications are any different. A lot of manufacturers will change part numbers if the materials are changed or different processes are used. I would like to see some measurement testing before saying they are different. If they were different why hasn't it been found out before?

Here mate. http://www.rhdjapan.com/cusco-sway-bar-rear-toyota-altezza-mark-ii-starlet-19723 Don't come as a kit though like the whiteline ones, but drop links and a couple exhaust brackets can easily be had. I'll be guessing to say that most JDM demo cars used cusco suspension gear seeing as they are highly regarded as the best manufacturer in the world by many.

Cusco offer a RARB.

I doubt the exhaust will make much difference on start up tbh, but unless the tuner spends a few days tweaking the map for cold start it will never be perfect imo.

:D :D :D

I've never seen one on an EP. Normally they are under the bonnet, most I've seen anyway.

Amen to that.

You on an EMB aren't you pal? Probably the map tbh.

Mine's just a single red wire I believe it is. Just goes from the handbrake upto the dash, the switch itself is on the handbrake.

The best thing you can do is to weld up the intake ports in the head. They are far too large for an N/A an loose you gas velocity, this isn't a problem with a turbo motor as the air is being force fed into the cylinder, relying upon vacuum alone from the piston moving down to BDC you need as much velocity as possible. The ports even on the turbo motor are too large and people have made 300+bhp on a stock cylinder head, so they are way too large for an N/A. You'll probably gain quite easily 5% increase in power.