AdamB

I've known ARP bolts to stretch and allow the head to lift under full boost. Get studs mate The head lifting causes oil and water to mix into the combustion chamber, results in blowing the gasket, bowing the head, worse case would be contaminating the fuel + air mix and causing det.

This

I would remove the belt and see if it still does it. It could well be the crank has got excessive play and the thrust bearings are on the brink, and pulling the clutch in will affect this because it changes the way the crank is loaded/unloaded as it rocks back and fourth. I don't think it is this as it doesn't sound metalic enough.

Quality episode, best one by far. Can't believe the series is over already

Ah fair enough, so I take it you removed everything for the heater controls, heated rear screen, electric mirrors etc?

Get it checked with another tester to be sure mate. Also do a wet test like I said, that will bring up any problems with the cylinders.

Looks great! Some fast paced action going on. Which parts of the loom did you actually remove? I need to do this to mine soon so need to get an idea of what I should be looking to remove

There's more to it than just the pistons. Headgasket thickness, deck height, etc. Low compression is shit and makes the car a ass to drive.

Recieved my Bilt Hamber products the other day Went and started my rust treatment process today, removed the rear bumper, wire brushed the rust and removed a lot of the dead material. Then I used a sanding block just to go over it and remove anymore small pieces. Before I touched anything this is what it looked like After a wire brush, sanding, degrease and a wash with got soapy water this is what it came out like. Then I pasted on the deox gel over the rust area's and covered with cling film to stop it drying out. Didn't get any pics of

You getting any excessive amount of crankcase pressure out the breather? Would try the test again, and try a wet test with a tea spoon of oil down the bore to check for ring and cylinder sealing.

That is pretty low, was the engine warm and with a wide open throttle? The minimum before a rebuild is around 130-140psi.

Impact gun should get it off mate, they are normally pretty well on there, sometimes you may find that even once the bolt is removed the pulley still won't budge, this is when a puller comes in handy.

Wiseco pistons Pauter/Carillo rods 4AGE ARP head studs 4AGE ARP cranks studs TRD 0.6mm headgasket (discontinued item now though) ACL bearing shells Building the engine is custom, everyone has their own do's and dont's, and tricks but they won't be likely to be given out

Yep looks that way mate. There is 2 different types, early GT and late GT/glanza.

Will look silly imo.

Why?

Think their dangerous enough as it is, let alone ripping off a complete body structure. You would have to add some seriously heavy bracing.

Fair enough, someone over on TGTT just got hold of a billet VF35 and he said that spools up around 500rpm quicker and is one of the best turbo's he's used. What is it you need to know pal?

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?89396-Thermostat-Housing-sensors-Help-identify-!&highlight=thermostat+sensors

You got a flow map of that turbo? Anything which you can run around 1.7 bar you'll most likely benefit from some cams. Oversized valves aren't needed until around the 460bhp mark. You'll also be better off going with some uprated valve springs and some head studs.

Put them on the right way round

I don't think your average exhaust center has a clue on tuned lenths and collector lengths, that could be a disaster lol.

More stiffness Yo :crazy:

There's loads on Bidjdm mate. http://www.bidjdm.com/bidding/auction/view/id/l190864988 http://www.bidjdm.com/bidding/auction/view/id/l104161092 http://www.bidjdm.com/bidding/auction/view/id/v298843590 Just pump in EP85 in the search. Apologies if they are drivers side, the descriptions won't load for me.

I can't fit that bit to my recaro's either, although mine are aftermarket and not OEM from another car.