AdamB

ebay mate. Only a couple of quid I think.

http://www.lexan-windows.com/window-kits-windscreens/toyota-starlet-ep91-pro-lexan-rear-screen.html

Buy them and just by some forged rods as well. Go the whole hog.

Believe Wiseco pistons are used. Am sure thats waht the guys over in Jamaica did.

A filter poses very little restriction these days, imo its mad not to run one, all the dirt and shit that gets in turns into like grinding paste.

Thats roughly stock fuel pressure anyway. What I ment is that the stock OEM injectors for example will flow 295cc @ 3 bar, so since your only running like 2.2/2.3 bar the injectors are only say flowing 250cc for example, not sure on the exact amount without working it out.

You have to remember that most injectors are tested at 3 bar of fuel pressure as well so you do have some scope to play with if you have an adjustable fpr. Although I wouldn't recommend going over 4 bar as it becomes hard to control the injectors.

Not really needed, also a bigger master cylinder is kinda the wrong term, to get more power you need a smaller one but this gives longer pedal travel. The stock master cylinder is good for people running upto 6 pot brakes, unless your going to be using the car on track a lot and fancy forking out £1000 for adjustable pedal box etc its not worth it. The master cylinder stopper is basically a plunger which botls to the chassis and stops the cylinder from flexing on the firewall, it gives a firmer pedal, well worth the it for the money they can be picked up for

Whats the jet size mate? What kinda HP will this achieve?

I don't think there's much difference tbh, they all do the same job really.

Check here, this should help you out http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?58024-Interchangelable-Injectors-* I'd probably look for something like 440's.

Ay I get that like, what am getting at was the fact the way they advertise it as being say 20mm, the bar may well be 20mm in diameter but it isn't the way to determine the stiffness of the roll bar, if that was the case do you not think that we should be rolling round with the largest diameter roll bars possible? The stiffness can be changed by how its mounted. I don't need a Hayne's manual, I fiddle with things where a bar of steel is considered sloppy and the roll bars we use are 150mm long and only 8mm thick plate steel. Take a ruler and put it flat, you can easily snap it, take the sam

Why would you make an expensive phone call to Australia when all the information is publicly there to see as made clear by the manufacturer.

On the front it is because tis fixed. Why don't you check out the whiteline website and do some research before typing and making yourself look like a cock http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/bulletins/BL-281.pdf Yes the thickness of the bar does make a difference, but also the material and grade of the material also makes just as much if not a bigger difference.

Hmm I dunno about being better tbh, plenty of people have used the 3E crank and still been reliable. Specs for the cams are : EFE - Intake Opens - 2 BTDC Exhaust Opens - 3 BBDC Intake Closes - 42 ABDC Exhaust Closes - 2 ATDC Intake Lift - 7.2mm Exhaust lift - 7mm Intake Duration - 224 degrees Exhaust Duration - 228 Degrees FHE - Intake Opens - 4 BTDC Exhaust Opens - 46 BBDC Intake Closes - 56 ABDC Exhaust Closes - 2 ATDC Intake Lift - 8mm Exhaust Lift - 7.3mm Intake Duration - 240 degrees Exhaust Duration - 228 degrees

Nah haven't checked out that page, will have to look at it lol. 820bhp on a E series engine? Yeah seen them both, have to be pretty accurate on where you drill with those though thats the only problem and the reason it put me off. Another thing is you have to make sure that the piston skirt and rod don't touch the jet on its way down to TDC. Also with those types the oil flow is constant, so if you have an oil pressure problem it will only be helping the cause to run the engine dry. Don't wanna give too much away about the way I wanna do it as I don't fancy making myself look like a tit if I

lol am sure they are cheaper than the likes of a Greddy item so would save people money when upgrading to programmable management. Fucked FTE club, I'm in the bare shell engine in bits starlet club lol.

The point is, the car went in with a fully working gearbox, it comes out making a rattle/noise. Either the wrong gearbox was put in and a duff one at that Or the clutch assembly is faulty.

It scaled wrong like I said. Try it and find out

You are correct mate. The FHE was marked with 5E and had the thicker rods. I may be wrong but I think possibly the earlier EFE engines came with the thicker rods also. Although none of it really matters if your going forged, I would be checking the duration and lift of the cams though

No probs mate. I did check out their website earlier, they have a lot more info on them through MaxSpeeding than the ebay ones and they say they are rated to 800bhp lol. Although will be interesting to find out how much they weigh compared to the likes of Scat, Pec and Pauter. I'm not sure they would offer them tbh, as drilling into the rod would change the material structure and they would need re-hardening, so if they do offer that make sure that they go through another heat treatment process as it will create stress fractures. Assume you mean the ones like found on the Evo 4G63 eng

Well that depends. If you want a blue printed engine thats going to last your going to have to measure the crank journal diameters, measure crank run out, measure rod journal diameters, measure little end diameters, measure piston diameters, measure bore diameters and have them bored to suit each cylinder, the list goes on and on. Or you can chuck them in and hope for the best

All sensors are 0-5v.

Has been done, but kinda pointless, if you've got to strip the engine to put the pistons in, spend an extra £350 on some Scat rods and be bullet proof for a very long time at whatever boost.

Use PTFE tape, don't glue it or you'll never get it back out! Use what the threads are designed to take.