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AdamB

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Everything posted by AdamB

  1. AdamB
    Couldn't tell you the size of the piston on the EP tbh buddy. Am sure someone will know though. You can hire them from some places, but not sure on the cost and it's easier to have the tool all the time as well.
  2. AdamB
    As above its deffo a UKDM motor. Its only the JDM imports which have the 100ps engine.
  3. AdamB
    Am not really a fan of the cube style ones tbh. I picked up a whole re-wind set, from ebay, good quality for like £20 delivered, came with all the bits to fit pretty much every size piston you'll ever see. This one : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Caliper-Piston-Rewind-Wind-Back-Tool-Kit-22PC-Set-Right-Left-Handed-/230999905166?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item35c8aad38e
  4. AdamB
    Probably
  5. AdamB
    That isn't a good sign, is it filling up the expansion bottle when on boost? Normally means a headgasket failure or a crack in the head/block.
  6. AdamB
    Unfortunatly I don't have the money for a flux capacitor, heard they are pretty expensive for a good one! Especially for big boost. Inside the box lurks a............ http://s164.photobucket.com/user/BoobZ18/media/Toyota%20Starlet%205E%20Build/2013-06-15110619_zps1000ad95.jpg.html'>
  7. AdamB
    There's a few more to come out of there yet! Nopeee, it's a Shoe box mate to give you an idea of size.
  8. AdamB
    Thats deffo a missfire as it still pulls rather than completely cuts. Things to check: Spark plugs Ignition leads Dizzy cap Rotor arm These are all serviceable parts are fairly cheap, check traders on here for quotes.
  9. AdamB
    Building the engine is the easy part, but blueprinting is an art and theres tricks that engine builders have learnt from experience. As above you'll need to check knock levels, a simple home built DIY det cans is usually good enough and some tuners swear by them over the more "advanced" knock boxes you can buy. The Pauter rods are usually much more expensive than that compared to Scat or PEC, but I would choose Scat for performance per pound. Get stuck in and give it a bash mate, you got plenty of people with good knowledge on here and even local companies to help you out!
  10. AdamB
    That's the problem, setups vary quite a lot and if you have someone else building the engine it would be best to ask them what they would recommend based on your target HP level. A drag, circuit or street driven motor are all built differently. Well they should be anyway. The best thing is to read compressor flow maps, do a few calculations and work out what turbo will suit you and your application. I did a write up on TGTT a little while a go on how to read compressor flow maps, but stupidly deleted the pictures from photobucket. Although getting numbers and gathering data from a flow map i
  11. AdamB
    Recieved this package today, any guesses as to what lurks inside? http://s164.photobucket.com/user/BoobZ18/media/Toyota%20Starlet%205E%20Build/2013-06-15110534_zps9106adca.jpg.html'> http://s164.photobucket.com/user/BoobZ18/media/Toyota%20Starlet%205E%20Build/2013-06-15110540_zpse884d1ab.jpg.html'>
  12. AdamB
    Wiseco with scat rods will do. Athena 1.2mm gasket with not much work done to the combustion chamber. Look for around an 8.2:1 compression ratio since you'll be maxing a td04, could go a little higher. Or if running a td05 8.5:1 would be good since its more efficient. ARP head bolts will do the job, but if you wanna bullet proof it use the 4AGE headstuds. Who's going to build it and map it? Ultimately it will be down to them with what they are comfortable with.
  13. AdamB
    Depends on your power goal tbh, Personally I feel Wiseco are the best off the shelf piston for this engine in terms of design. Pauter/Carillo (if you can get them) best off the shelf rods For the money Athena HG Compression ratio will depend on turbo, boost pressure, fuel used, ecu used, how competent your tuner is. Block work minimum will need, decked, skimmed, chemically cleaned. Head will need to be skimmed.
  14. AdamB
    I would take the casing with a pinch of salt tbh, the gears could have been swaped over at somepoint. The only real way is to split the box and work it out, driven/driver.
  15. AdamB
    Sounds like fuel cut to me or a missfire. I wouldn't wanna be hitting fuel cut too often.
  16. AdamB
    The first one I think is the fan switch at the back of the thermo housing from what it looks like. The second one is the temp gauge in the car.
  17. AdamB
    5w40/10w40 will do. OEM Oil filter, Toyota Red coolant, NGK spark plugs (depends on your spec which grade to get 7's will do most people) Not a fan of engine flushing personally but each to their own.
  18. AdamB
    No, diffs have an active preload setting where they will not lock until they see X amount of torque, this can be adjusted on clutch type LSD's, not sure on the quaife though.
  19. AdamB
    Yes mate Best bet is to get someone to push the clutch pedal and then look around the gearbox area and look to see if the cables are moving at all (2 of them).
  20. AdamB
    Ah my bad. Get some pics around the intake and thermostat area, it will most likely be around this area thats causing the problem. I believe there is a rad fan switch on the thermo housing, if disconnected it should run the fan constantly. Believe theres 3 or 4 connections on it, if you do a search there is a pic floating round of the thermo housing with all the sensors labelled. Would link but im on my phone.
  21. AdamB
    I would check the selector cables first mate.
  22. AdamB
    Has the air con been removed? Theres a plug thats over on the nearside behind the headlight that needs to be bridged to stop the fan running constantly. Are you sure theres no vac leaks?
  23. AdamB
    Hmm doesn't actually look that bent from that pic, and normally they have yellow paint on them. Prob a stock one tbh.
  24. AdamB
    If that arm is bent I believe its a TRD one, can't quite tell from that angle but it looks bent slightly.
  25. AdamB
    Yep pretty much, obviously you have to unbolt the final drive from the old diff and bolt it back upto the new one. Some diff's do require a running in period where your supposed to do figure of 8's for 30 minutes, although I don't think this applies to the quaife as it is not a clutch type LSD.
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