AdamB

I haven't heard of that exact term, but something similar. If the valve diameter is increased, its possible to run less lift because it's just another way of increasing air flow, if you were to do both it turns into a stale mate situation where you either need excessive valve lift to make use of it, which in turn makes the engine run lumpy and impossible to drive unless it idles really high. Much like what you have said. Therefore ideally its really one or the other. Some engines actually respond better to a smaller valve and or less lift, this is one area where the 1.3 N/A engine real

6 I believe mate.

True, E series engine breathers are shit though as they have no direct crankcase ventilation, Soon sort that problem though

Wouldn't worry too much for a few hundred miles, you will get a bit of blowby until the rings have sealed against the cylinder.

Not sure if the fly is the same, but the clutch from an MR2 can be used as well

I believe some of the oversea's people use the N/A 200mm clutch on high powered 5E's, they don't to seem to have a problem

Will be fine, but ideally you will want to swap the pistons. Use the FTE thermostat housing, the FTE oil filter housing, few sensors are different also.

Nope, the turbo uses a 212mm clutch, the N/A uses 200mm. They are interchangeable on the crank though, so you'll just have to use the correct clutch with the right flywheel.

You don't have to use the cusco LSD oil mate. Check out opie oils, the Motul, fuchs and redline stuff is pretty damn good at keeping them quiet so I've heard. I'll probably use the Motul stuff in mine.

Have you checked to make sure you are getting 14v at the battery with the car running? Shouldn't take 4 hours to charge up a little bit!

Think you'll only be another statistic dude and you'll end up coming back! Providing you can afford to keep the car then do so, or even look for another car like a daily which is more child friendly if you can afford that option as well.

I wouldn't recommend raising the fuel pressure on the stock pump. Raising the fuel pressure puts more strain on the pump and it doesn't flow as much as what it would do at a lower pressure. That on a stock tired out old 15 + year old pump is going to hurt and could cause damage. You will need to upgrade the pump before tuning anyway

Don't think there is one. You have to follow the recommended instructions as given by the manufacturer. Believe the bosch sensors need to be located 34-36 inches downstream of the turbo.

Stock. Just replace the synchro's, atleast you'll have a fresh box.

Only way to tell is it to take it off, I believe its just basically a ported unit.

Depends how the engine was built, using todays technology you can run much tighter oil clearences, giving you the opportunity use a fully synth oil. Best to ask the engine builder what they would prefer you use.

Did you get the WRC bearings on that turbo mate?

Have you just rotated it the once? Rotate the crank twice and see where it lines up then. Failing that it depends how the engine was timed up when built, as I would always use a DTI gauge to dial the cams in rather than use the markers, its much more accurate.

Hope you go all balls on the styling dude, needs a big rear wing! Gonna be epic.

I heard that R888's on medium compound last like 1000 miles on the road? Not exactly cost effective lol. Only for smooth race track use what I was told.

Are you sure the earth strap is on the starter? I've seen some where they come off.

Best thing to do is probably strip the engine, find out whats what.

Ah is it, heard of a few TMD engines going down over the last few months like.

Still got that manifold and that here with your name on it buddy

Tim @TBdevelopments doesn't map, but uses the likes of Ryan G @ 2 bar tuning, Mr Motec Dave Rowe.