AdamB

Or valve stem seals, Or excessive bearing clearences Or piston rings. Do a compression test lad, that will rule out anything engine internal wise. Other than that take the manifold off and check in the ports, if their oily its valve stem seals.

Am sure the rev counter works off the dizzy trigger input mate. So if you still have the wires for that, will be worth trying. Failing that can you not use the crank trigger?

Ah strange, wonder what the 5e mark is even for then? The engine stroke makes no difference because the crankshaft rotates twice to 1 rotation of the camshaft, regardless of piston position in the cylinder. Providing the cambelt is attached of course lol. When timing in the cam you make sure cylinder 1 is at TDC, set the camshaft degree and then put the belt on. This gives you a datum point as to the exact opening and closing times of the valves for THAT cam. The problem being with the E series engine is that both cams are meshed together, so what you do to one cam, effects the other. Havi

Is there any rust on the car at all mate? The arches look like its bubbling but might just be the pics, can't see that clearly lol.

I believe the 5E mark is only for the slightly longer duration and higher lift 5EFHE cams, as the cam specs between 4EFE, 4EFTE and the 5EFE are the same.

You time it in accordance to the cam specs. The 4EFTE inlet cam opens at 2 BTDC, Exhaust cam opens at 38 BBDC. Use a DTI gauge! Take half an hour and time it up properly. Why spend thousands on an engine and skimp at the last hurdle? Use an adjustable cam pulley to then adjust valve timing when on the dyno.

The fan's in the wrong place

Extra sour seem's a bit ironic. Could be worse atleast its not like a white cream egg oozing out lol.

Ah man so many sexual EP's! Blue V is stunning!

Exhaust knocking on the rear axle maybe. My car does it when I let off the throttle on the over run.

If you are just after 200bhp then a plug and play unit will do the job. Although its still adviseable to get it checked on a dyno for AFR and knock, every engine is different so what works for one engine may not work for yours. You will probably see around 190bhp on that setup.

You can't reuse OEM headbolts as they are stretch to yield, once torqued down they will not hold sufficient clamping force the next time round and the head will lift. ARP's can be reused but will need to be measured for stretch. I think if you wanted to go forged, you would be far better just buying an engine package from TD or Race-Tech, then all you have to do is drop the engine in, especially if your not too sure on some things.

Don't get too caught up on the figures. A programmable management will provide a much smooth powerband and its suited to your engine.

Athena is the cheapest option in terms of gaskets 1.2mm will be sufficient. Con rods it varies as they are all different weights, some need the block notched some don't. Bearings you can't really tell until the crankshaft and journals have been measured. Unfortunatly if you want a lasting engine you can't just throw it all together.

Why didn't you time the engine up using a DTI gauge? The marks can still indicate to be out 2 or 3 degrees in relation to piston position. http://www.burtonpower.com/tuning-guides/tuning-guide-pages/camshaft-fitting-timing.html

I would put mesh behind/infront of it so it looks more aftermarket rather than a bit of a bodge though.

Looks epic that. I would guess and say that it's using the same type of spacer/bush you can get for raising the bonnet. Does have it's uses to remove heat from the engine bay

Looks perfect! Well done for getting her back on the road so quick Is that a genuine livesports kit or rep?

You sure you not got a vac leak?

You sure you got the vac lines the right way round on the gate? Not familier with how to setup egay specials though.

Should be there in time.... For 2014

Similar idea as to what I've got in mind making mate, although is far too complex than it needs to be. Only need one light, knock is knock, don't need various lights to tell you its there. Plus I can probably make one for about £20 I might try this at uni on Tuesday if I can get hold of the equipment.

Guy over on TGTT has done this, just waiting for him to post up details

Bump still here

Thats just the basics. You need to look at silly little things like the quench area, the distance between piston rings, valve positioning, connecting rod stretch. One reason why the Wiseco pistons are very good is that they maximise the quench area and yet still retain a dish, this dish in the centre of the piston helps reduce the compression ratio, but at the same time, the outer edge of the piston still forces the mixture in towards the spark plug. Remember that the initial flame starts in the centre and works its way outwords. Some pistons which are able to run a tight oil clearences