AdamB

x2 this man, your fuel pressure is way too high at 3.4-2.8 bar. Thats just on idle before it even starts seeing boost. If you go over 4 bar of fuel pressure it starts to become harder for the ecu to control the injectors, even some standalones struggle with this let alone a stock ecu!

I would think about mounting the subframe to where aftermarket RARB's are bolted through the chassis. Does the rolla IRS not have its own ARB? As they are normally attached to the subframe, starlet way is just a bodge lol.

Who built the engine? Whats the spec? If the crank case pressure is high then theres a problem with sealing in the cylinders for sure, wasting power away there.

30% is lost into the cooling system, 30% down the exhaust system and like 15% radiated out through the engine block/head etc. Goes to show inefficient the internal combustion engine really is! I believe in heat wrap helping to give the exhaust gas a greater velocity upon exiting the port, and velocity is directly related to pressure as well would help promote removing any residual gas left over in the cylinder, but also manifold/port design as well. From what I've seen the port of the manifold should line up so that the roof is slightly higher than the roof of the port, since we know hot

Spark plug oil seals.

Similar idea is to extend the slave rod. This HAS to be done on some clutch setups because the clutch drags even with the pedal out.

Seems as if thats the subframe to use ^^^

75w90 will do nicely mate, and I'd get 3 litres. You could probably do it in 2 but you'll need to get every last drop out lol.

I see a starlet on ebay yesterday for £1600, although it did only have 36k on the clock lol.

To be honest am unsure as its not really what I would use ceramic coatings for. I would have said that ceramic coatings are used to contain heat rather than disperse it. The water wouldn't have much heat to absorb, but at the same time the pistons have to be able to cope with the extended heat, most likely ruling stock pistons out of the equation. The heat wouldn't cause the ring to fail, but what you could potentially do is increase the ring gap to allow the excess heat to blow past the piston, I know this kinda makes it pointless as its essentially throwing heat energy away. But without

Like the colour but thats about it, looks too fast & furious to me, just waiting for him to pull the seat up and find 6x 250ml bottles of NOS lol.

Check out Harry's build thread mate, he uses poly carb windows http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/9978-5efte-carbon-clad-submarine/ I would probably say you'd save around 20kg of weight. Depending on your setup to get 20bhp you'll be needed a remap at the very minimum, plus any other components to make it happen.

I would be careful Sam, some piston manufacturers don't like the use of coatings. If your thinking stock pistons then might be worth a go, but if it's a forged set I would contact the manufacturer first to ensure that they have no problems with it being used on their material. If you have trouble keeping cylinder temps down you have a problem elsewhere. 75-80% of combustion heat is lost through the top piston ring into the water jacket, so if your overheating chances are your cooling system isn't upto scratch. Also am not sure if a cermaic coating would actually deflect heat away, its prim

Get it heat treated or have it Cryogenically treated. Not really something that usually breaks that I've known of. May have just been unlucky mate.

They are expensive but a massive weight saving. Will prob need the equivalent of 20bhp to get the same outcome, and getting 20bhp more is prob more expensive ;)

I noticed that with a lot of EP's in japland, they have the filter either mounted right up in the firewall stock airbox loaction, or behind the headlights. Confuses me but must be a reason why, they do so well over there so maybe we are doing it the wrong way lol.

Your boost bypass is fine, the way you have it means the solenoid and all the gubbins can be removed. This does mean the button on the dash is useless but who needs low boost anyway? The viscosity of the oil won't really make any difference, a 5w over a 10w will provide better start up protection. But the 30 is probably a little too low and no doubt you will prob burn that off in no time! You'll be fine running a 10w40 now the weather is getting better

Ah fair enough, must be another ecu am thinking of. Have you tried plugging in a stock ecu to eliminate it?

Nobody really wants them because they don't really do the engine any favours, they still suffer from heat soak.

Wasn't the KS Rom ecu mapped for the 5e engine as I thought thats what KS used?

If you remove the turbo just check in the compressor and turbine side, if theres anything more than a thin film of oil (compressor side) the turbo seals have gone.

Someone take it I want my new turbo kit but don't wanna be left with this.

Ah fair enough mate. Doubt many people would be interested in the ecu, people will prob have the map sensor, dizzy etc as they are consumable items.

Your fuel pressure is way too high for that boost pressure. Thats your problem.