steve-gers

Ok so I was going to do a compression test before I stuck the TD04 on and my kit is in 3 pieces:- A gauge with a hose and a standard airline adapter (female) at the other end, a male extension hose with a thread at the other end and lastly a fitting that screws into the spark plug hole. I thought I would be smart (stupidly) and screw the threaded extension hose into the spark plug hole instead as it has the same threads. I only put it in hand tight by twisting the hose but after testing the cylinder I couldn't get it out and it's still stuck in there! The top of the hose is just poking out wit

Found part number (90480-18006) but can't find anywhere to buy it......anyone?

Does anyone know what size this is as mine is very brittle and I need to change it as it is leaking.

Items can be found here

Stainless, it's for a japspeed system.

As above which do you recommend is the best type and also brand to use? Thanks

anthracite or gunmetal grey

do screamers sound good? Any good example videos?

It's probably going to be this mani and downpipe so how would that work for screamer?

I will look at reviews on them but surely over the spring pressure it is the EBC controlling the boost anyway? My controller has a red warning light and beeper that you can set at desired pressure to warn you that you are over boosting anyway.

lol maybe but what's the difference between the 2?

Can't afford tial for at least another month and I'm impatient lol, plus there is no point paying 200 quid for a wastegate when a 60 quid one does the same job.

Not 100% sure how the screamer works, do you need to have one with ex gated? Also has anyone tried these ex gates? I'm on a budget haha.

Going TD04 as soon as my WEPR mani and downpipe is made up and delivered but need some advice. I will be running somewhere between 0.6-0.8 low boost and 1.0-1.1 high boost and would like to know if I should keep the internal wastegate or order an externally gated mani instead? I have a greddy profec b spec 2 ebc and the main things I need are a quick spool and no boost spikes.

Thanks for all the help. Checked the dipstick oil seal and when I removed it the rubber was very perished and so brittle that when I bent it, it snapped. So have replaced that and seems to have cured it but will keep an eye on it.

I have a greddy profec b spec 2 electronic boost controller. Thanks thats what I needed to hear as I didn't want to fit it all then have to take it apart later.

The turbo isn't fitted yet I just need to know if this will be enough of an opening or not. forgot to mention its a TD04

What I meant was even with the actuator arm fully extended (with everything bolted in place) it only opens the penny to an angle of roughly 45 degrees and I need to know if this will be far enough open to hold boost stead at 0.8-1.0 bar or will I need to adjust the bracket so that the arm can open the penny up further when it is fully extended.

As above how far does it need to open to prevent a boost spike running about 0.8-1.0 bar? Have made a bracket for the actuator but with the actuator arm fully out the penny is roughly open 45 degrees.

I have 2X standard rear springs in good condition. Also have 1X rear shock and will have 2X front shocks soon.

Preferably WEPR or Zisco but will consider others such as toyosports........

I think your the guy that mailed me before. I will offer you £200 cash for the manifold and downpipe, you can keep the gaskets, rad, air filter.....etc. Let me know.

How many hours labour at a garage do you reckon? Don't have time to do it myself due to being grasscutting season at work lol

My car has started leaking oil and its kind of hard to tell where it's coming from to be precise. It usually leaves 2 small spots (one at front and one at back of sump) overnight and occasionally another small spot in between the 2. Noticed recently that the engine side of the drive shaft and the bracket for the alternator have some oil on them (although it could be grease as I had a burst CV gaiter) and also the sump is quite oily. I'm guessing either dipstick oil seal, sump needs resealed or (hopefully not) crank oil seal. Any ideas of how I can check exactly where it is coming from?

Nearest place I know is Carrick Engineering in Prestwick but is a fair bit of a drive for you.