steve-gers

of opposite holes

Measure the distance between the centre of one hole to the centre of the next

Try using open office it supports word amongst others and is totally free.

Measure the hole locations out a few times to make 100% sure then put masking tape on the area to cut and mark the whole location on the tape with a pen. Then use a very sharp centre punch (if the area isn't too weak a metal) and hit it with a hammer to mark the area properly and to give the drill bit something to bite into rather than scratch the paint. The tape will give it a small amount of protection aswell.

Yes check this thread

If they work out the box at 0.8mm I would personally just leave them.

I'm sure I read somewhere that you should use the biggest gap possible before the spark blows out as it gives you better fuel consumption (not sure if that is true or not). I think there gapped at 1.1mm standard and I'm sure the gap for 1Bar of boost is 0.8-0.9mm but don't quote me on that.

I will misfire, mostly higher up the rev range at full boost.

Forgot to mention that the turbo comes with the bolts for the downpipe

When I changed mine there were no washers so at I guess I would say somebody has used bolts that are too long?

Yeah the turbo, external wastegate and ebc solenoid vacuum lines.

how have you got it all plumbed in?

My ebc has the option to choose which pressure to start opening the wastegate.

I have standard front shocks with pretty new kyb rear shocks. All in good condition without leaks and all have -35mm spax springs on them. £100 + P&P, probably a bit expensive just to go to scrap though.

I have one for sale check the for sale section mate

This site also does them

Try giving this guy a call and see if he would be interested in a group buy.

NGK bkr7eix iridium's have a factory gap of 0.8mm and bkr7eix-11 have a gap of 1.1mm.

I would be up for one, was contemplating buying a richbrook one but could hold out for this. Will it come with the sticky clear gel things like the richbrook ones?

That would be really useful for me. Apparently cutting the hole in the bulk head is a nightmare? How much did you have to drop the engine down to get the box out, i.e did you have to disconnect any wires or pipes for slack?

There was a thread about that a few days ago on tgtt, here is the link.

There's a stage 1/2 exedy organic clutch on tgtt for £75 posted but not sure if it will handle the TD04 I will post pictures below to see if anyone can identify it. Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 Picture 4

It's fairly easy just go to photobucket.com and make an account then plug your phone into computer and upload.

yes you can post them.......haha

OK before I start this I would like to say yes I know I am very stupid haha. The problem is I have just fitted an externally gated TD04 kit with screamer to my AUTO starlet. The main problem is that one of the rubber cooler lines from the box to the radiator goes directly under the screamer. Now that is fine providing I don't go on boost until I get a heat shield made up, but where's the fun in that? Anyway trying not to do so my friend tried to overtake me in his glanza and it would of been unsporting not to give it some beans. I did so and thought all was fine afterwards at 60 until it star