steve-gers

Which dash light flashes? How much bother did you have bolting clutch pedal in?

Yeah rear mount is the same basically mate. Could you not have drilled the hole from the cabin as there is a cutout in the felt where the holes are? Not sure i like the sound of the bolting job, sounds a nightmare. I'm assuming that the ecu stays the same?

Did you take the engine out for the conversion? Maybe a universal joint would work on there or I have a set of ratchet spanners that should do the trick. Any problems with the conversion as I am hopefully doing mine next week.

Thanks very much

Which would be best out of the millers crx and the redline?

Here is the updated list of parts that I need for the conversion. If I have missed ANYTHING at all out that anyone can think of please let me know. Thanks Gearbox Parts gearbox flywheel flywheel bolts rear engine mount bracket (gearbox side) rear engine mount (chassis side) and bolts to match LH side engine mount LH side engine mount bracket manual gearbox bell housing bolts manual starter motor manual starter motor bolts Clutch Parts clutch kit (clutch plate, pressure plate and thrust bearing) if installing a new clutch kit (this is recommended) get the flywheel machined. clutch pressure plate bolts clutch release fork clutch release fork boot clutch slave cylinder clutch slave cylinder bolts clutch master cylinder hydraulic clutch lines short and long steel lines and the rubber line hydraulic clutch line brackets and clips clutch pedal bracket clutch pedal bracket nuts clutch pedal clutch pedal rubber clutch pedal spring Other Parts manual brake pedal shifter assembly shifter cables x2 one of each type shifter cable clips x4 – Have some clips but not sure which ones, will post picture shifter boot gear knob If anyone has any of the parts that I still need then comment below with a price delivered please. Quick question about the clutch lines, is it only the 1 big solid metal line, a small soft rubber line and the slave cylinder with the short metal line attached that is on the car? Also how many clips/brackets are there as I may need some more? (currently 2 on big metal line and 1 on small metal line, 1 on soft line no bolts) Also a quick question about the clutch & brake pedal brackets. Does the clutch pedal just bolt up to the master cylinder or is there other bolts needed and also will the brake pedal bracket just bolt in with the bolts that are already there for the auto brake pedal? Picture of Clips

Make: Toyota Model: Starlet GT Turbo Year: 1995 Manual/Auto: Going to be manual next week Performance Modifications: Externally gated TD04 soon to be around 220-230bhp Driving style: Daily driven, some spirited driving from time to time Any other information that may be relevant: What recommendation are you looking for? Gearbox, also how many litres.

can anyone confirm amount?

Manifold sold, the rest are still available.

I have a forge actuator for sale. Meant to be a guy taking it on friday just got to wait and see if he gets back to me today to confirm, if not then it's still up for grabs.

No, changing it to manual in the next couple of weeks that's why I'm asking which oil is best for manual box now.

Is it just me or does it look like there isn't much friction material left? I need a clutch as I have a TD04 and am going manual very soon and was going to buy a new exedy 3 puk off camskill but if this has plenty of life left and will handle 230-240 ft lbs then I will have a look at this instead.

Been reading some reviews on the spec products and there not very good at all?

if it's just for parts then I am sure I seen that camskill do finance.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/subaru-turbo-14412aa100-49377-04000-td04-3450-362-x19-/360493081739?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item53ef0fe48b

Yeah it was leaking a bit before but only dripping not spraying. Put TD04 on a few weeks ago with brand new TD braides hose and its stopped dripping now but leak obviously still there.

Yeah I know, but pretty dry where the shafts go into the box. Very slight loss of oil on the engine dipstick needs topped up about once a month, no loss at all on gearbox dipstick.

not sure on the pipe size 100% but yeah should fit fine. I will check the pipe later on and post size in here and yes it works perfectly.

Probably both do the job just fine, just like to use expensive oil for piece of mind lol.

I have a blue baileys dv26 with hoses and clips

30 quid for 2 litres delivered, not 2 bad.

Redline MT-90 any good?

Ok, spot on thanks very much.

wrong side of the engine to be gearbox oil seal mate. Will find out for sure when the engine is out though as I will be changing all 3 belts anyway. Heard of a proper pikey way to change timing belt but it may be easier than I thought. Cut the old belt in half or smaller (width wise) then take the tension off a little bit and slip the new belt over so it gets a grip then cut the old belt completely and pull it off. No need for checking timing marks etc