steve-gers

Planning to convert my auto to a manual around x-mas/new year time so starting to collect parts now. I already have a good gearbox and an clutch capable of handling the TD04 plus some TRD mounts but I still require these parts:- Brake and clutch pedal Master cylinder Slave cylinder Line between master & slave Gear linkages Flywheel & bolts Gearstick + assembly If anyone is breaking a car or has these parts lying about (preferably cheap as i'm on a budget ) I would be grateful if you could post on here or PM me. Thanks

you will need a sandwich plate but they don't fit properly on a 4efte so you need to either grind the power steering bracket a bit or the plate itself. If it was me I'd just put an oil filter relocation kit on as it's in a bad place anyway.

What's the best ratio rrfpr to use as I have seen both 1:1 and 1:7?

I used this

I have 35mm spax springs with nearly new shocks on the back and decent front shocks if your still looking.

Probably just condensation now that the cold weather is here. If it's still smoking white and chucking out water when its warmed up then possible head gasket.

I want one

where can I buy one?

I just bought a set less than a year old with 5k miles on them in mint condition for £500 delivered off tgtt. If you go on there is a 25% off offer on just now I think so that makes the meister r's 600 new + postage as stated above.

I'm fitting coilovers tomorrow and will have a full suspension setup for sale. Spax 35-40mm springs all round with standard shocks at the front and nearly new monroe ones at the rear.

Looking at getting a set of coilovers but was wondering which ones would be best the BC-RM's or BC-BR's. There a really good price on that website, the only other option is a set of very good condition Meister R Zeta R's with roughly 5k on them for £535.

try putting a big screwdriver or small crowbar or something in the small gap between the 2 housings that you have made and prying them apart but be very careful.

I take it you have removed the clip? I just held it in a vice and gently tapped the exhaust housing with a copper mallet and it came apart.

It's a nightmare to do, I used long nose pliers to pull the 2 ends together then jammed a butter knife underneath 1 end and ran it round the whole thing to pop it out.

Thanks very much to everyone that helped. Got it all done now, everything is spot on except I got the petrol gauge ever so slightly squint I think but hard to notice. Need to cut the plastic a nit to get the wires out as they are out a bulb hole just now and the needles + odometer don't light up.

Ok thanks very much just going to wire them up just now can anyone give me some help with that?

Trying to fit my indiglo dials to my auto EP82 and have so far got them out and the clear face removed but I need to know a couple of things if anyone has some answers I would be very grateful. Question 1 Which bulbs do I take out of the clocks (diagram below)? Question 2 Do I route the wires from the dial faces in the back of each dial and out a bulb hole? And if so will this not be too much of a bend?? I think my answer to question 1 is all bulbs but thought I would confirm 1st. Thanks in advance for any help and the pics are below.

Most Flywheel Power, Most Powerful, Most Powerful 4E, Most Powerful 5E from what I can see are wrong unless browner is using race fuel and needing moved out of that category. Ah sorry he's running NOS, I never seen this "The Following Stats are taken from the results of those who run Fuel avaliable from Fuel Stations & Without the Aid of Nitrous Oxide"

I think the leaderboard needs fixed, there are a few errors in the top bit.

last bump

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yeah I had the pressure released I think it was because of the heat though. I now have the problem of tightening the fitting into the head with the hose in place or finding a way to tighten it then screw hose in as the fitting has a 19mm nut on it and a 19mm socket won't fit down the hole.

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Crisis averted, ended up pulling and twisting the hose quite hard until it pulled off the fitting and then just used the spark plug socket on top of the fitting (which has no nut) with lots of pressure and luckily because it was only hand tight it turned, I then pushed the hose back onto the fitting to pull it out. Lesson learned.