H_D

Brand new wideband fitted and tested, going to check the fuel pump tonight. Dont think its the relay as i can hear the pump whining, also no stored codes when i did diagnostics

I have also checked the injectors and loom with a multimeter and no irregularities found there either

Running td04, stock ecu and 6psi boost. Afr gauge is reading between 13-14 on boost with wide open throttle so i switched it off immediately. The AFR readings are fine on startup, idle and when off boost.

In terms of the fueling setup the follwong has been done....

walbro pump fitted about 7 years ago, recently had the injectors rebuilt and tested, new genuine fuel filter, stock FPR.

I have checked the map sensor and getting a solid 5V all new vacuum lines on it too.

Also replaced the vacuum line for the FPR.

Spark plugs also indicate its running lean

Any suggestions???

2 minutes ago, 1990timeismoney said:

That's a good option thank u for the advice.

bare in mind the baffle plate is steel and the rocker cover is aluminum, as long as the baffle has been drilled out properly any competent welder can blob weld it back in for you, I don't like the idea of using screws/bolts as I worry the may start to loosen off after a while which can cause serious engine failure if they fall out

I had my baffle welded back in

16 hours ago, LeonL said:

Is there anything I can measure to confirm this?

cheera dude

They only come in 2 sizes, 38mm and 44mm, looking at the pics its very easy to tell its a 38mm wastegate.

you need a 38mm INLET v-band clamp

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tial-38mm-wastegate-Inlet-Clamp-V-band-MV-S-Vband-mvs/260419377314?epid=1659043288&hash=item3ca23458a2:g:OrEAAOxyhlJRbht8

check the securing nuts on the end of the wiper arm under the little plastic cap, you may need to take them off completely and reposition them

search for hose end finishers ebay/google.

I had mine made locally....

18 hours ago, jellybaby said:

I would replace the valve as well if u can get hold of them

still also where it located ? As I just fort

mine never been changed lol 

Iirc £48 new from toyota. You need to remove the sump to access it

Damn that sucks. Maybe worth getting a new oil pressure relief valve whilst its stripped. People tend to overlook these on a built motor considering they are over 20 years old and play a vital role in keeping your engine healthy 

Same driveshafts for an after market lsd. Only the oem Toyota lsd gearbox has 1 different shaft  

Got the car fired up on Monday and bled the coolant system, all went well, the engine sounds nice and quiet, time to start the running in process. hopefully hitting full boost in the next couple of weeks.

On ‎3‎/‎17‎/‎2019 at 9:51 AM, SKINY said:

That 3rd pic up is class bud, the bay is looking well, something about a black glanza just makes me moist lol

Thanks mate, I always wanted a white a glanza until I seen a black one in the flesh

Not fired it up yet but got everything put back together.

To do list....

Remove old fuel and replace.

Good wash, clean and detail.

Fit battery. Finally there is light at the end of the tunnel.

Few pics of how she looks atm.

check the bulbs aint bridging, regarding the fuel smell check for leaks

I have a flywheel and brand new clutch plate bolts

I also used midland turbo for a rebuild and wastegate penny removal. So far so good

looking good, iirc TOMS did an air intake feed for this kind of setup

Im running my forged engine in at 7psi on millers for 1000miles oil changes every 250 miles. 1st oil change at 50 miles

Probably worth checking out who your mate used to get his mapped

This exactly why i always tell people to use an ecu that your tuner recommends or has experience with.

Received my bits as expected. Top lad. Thank you

No difference on the calipers at all. I have rebuilt many 

1 hour ago, akyakapotter said:

looking good dude sure it will fire right up. 

fingers crossed