Rob Scott

i have yep. real easy, plenty of how to's on the net

either bolt the side mounts directly to the floor, Or, weld in some box section to the sills and transmission tunnel, then mount the side mounts to those.

still lookings

toe can be adjusted on all cars, you can adjust camber on standard suspension if you file the holes on the strut, ot get some camber bolts. rear toe and camber cant be adjusted.

yep, me in rail industry. I go through an agency, much easier, I'm with Rullion Engineering, Give them a ring, Ask for Rory Scott,

the hollow pressed type can be made seriously strong by either capping it off, or welding a tube in it.

I use a proper alignment system, its called string and a tape measure. Works fine. Whats the point in spending loads of cash if you can make it yourself, and once its ajusted once, thats it for most cars ou there on the road. Mines on a race car, i have about 80hp at the wheels, and can keep up with cars more than double the power... how? handling... so my hacked up parts i have made in the garage must be doing ok? If i had bought all the parts, or paid for someone else to make them, then the car would have cost me 5 times as much!!!! fuck that

or if you have the skills, make your own and save loads of cash...

that one you posted looks fine, only issue is you have to disconxt one end to adjust... but its not like your going to need to tweek it every other day. so its fine. Mine is made kinda the same way, allthough i used the pressed type panhard rod, welded a tube into it for strength, then used some threaded bar. its easily strong enough, i twatted a barrel sideways and the axle didnt budge. if you can weld, then go for it. it will cost you pence rather than £100.

well yesh, as the suspension would be flopping about if they didnt....

, heres a pic for ya. as you can see, it bridges the gap pretty well. its also a mount for the sump guard too.

depends what lower brace you use... i use my own, which mounts to the front wishbone bolts, then to the front valance... as where the wishbone rear mounts - is allready quite strong, and its more important to stiffen the furthest forward point of the chassis legs. (its all about the leverage on the chassis legs to reduce flex.) but anyways, yesh, any changes to suspension, means you need to check your tracking. For £15 to get your tracking done, its worth just getting it done..... i do my own tracking, using plumb weights for camber, and string for tracking..... easy really, allthough you need two people.

up antiroll bars are a tuning aid, depends how you drive, what surface you drive on, mainly long corners, or mainly tight corners, mixture of both, etc etc. also to fine tune the antiroll bar, you can vary the length of the drop links, which alters the leverage on the bar. antiroll bar on the front produces under steer, antiroll bar on the rear produces oversteer, antiroll bar both front and rear..,slight oversteer, but obviously a lot less body roll. etc etc etc, so many options.

is your tyre hitting the arch? a bump stop is there to cushion the suspension at full compression... and/or to limit suspension travel. if your car is bouncing around, then its most likely your shocks are either fooked, or arnt up to the job of dampening the car with the stiffer springs.

lower front brace is a must, even before polybushing! there is so much flex on the front end. if you imagine the front end without the engine and box in there, there is just a massive void. lower brace and top strut brace is a must to stiffen the chassis.

you need suspension to suit the car... damping, and spring rate. also to suit the type of road surface you usually drive on.

bit of a random question?

just buy some ep top mounts and you will be ok. i guess you just want it for lowering the car rather than handling?

they are pointless, as that is the stiffest part of the car anyway. all your doing is adding weight.

cheers buddy!!! cant wait to get out again 80bhp vs 300bhp+ thats what rallycross is about

lol at the amount of people with decent motors in their car, and are scared of taking them on a track day... ha ha faggots ;)

i prefer plate LSD's

still looking turns out one i went to look at wasnt an LSD, as the guy thought all glanzas came with them from the factory.

Allready fixed, ready for the first race of 2014, on the 9th Feb Damage wasnt too bad, just put a new inner bumper and brackets on, straightened out the right wing and door, and just a bit of filler on the bonnet where the gell coat had cracked off.

shameless plug: http://www.facebook.com/AngrySpiderRacing we also rally an AE86