Flaminsam

EBay ones stay clear. Get them ceramic coated properly by a company.

Ah cool. Sounds like you have a healthy engine

Mech does your car use 500ml per month or every oil change? I've used semi synthetic in all my engines and not had a problem.

Damn would be good if your nearer. Need a few bits for the starlet. Also wouldn't have minded bringing another starlet back to life

Yup use mineral oil. It will protect the engine during running in. And once the engine is run in don't use fully synthetic. These engines are not designed to use it. Semi synth is more than adequate. The fully synthetic has less protective qualities than semi synth. And is also quite thin.

That's what I want to run after my td04. Always liked Garrett turbo's.

Good on ya rob. How's will getting on with your ecu? You say your having problems with the software?

Lol my tdo4 kit looks well to be honest. To be honest your car doesn't breath heavy any way so for now I think you should be ok. Really inpressed with the evo front mount. Plus if you get a uprated evo intercooler it will be a direct fit Need to see about gettin that sard fpr on too babe.

Lol yea my td04 kit being put to use before me lol. Will be interesting to see how it goes on the road though. Should be a good idea what mine should be like

sorry to keep spamming but i have found a subject on motoiq that covers both compression ratio and afr mixture. good reading for those interested in this subject on afr and compression ratios. http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_articles/id/1631/suck-squish-bang-blow-part-3-compression-ratio-and-air-fuel-ratio.aspx

so basically to chase even more ponies than what a standard compression fte has, lower the compression even more. makes perfect sence. hows that for a sick wideband set up!

agreed ^^^^^ yea jay i understand exactly what you mean. i guess im thinking too in depth chasing ponies as it where. but as said previously if the comp ratio was lower surely you can lean off the mixture? not by alot i understand but this would be true? also i have contact with a tuning legend in the states. he explains lots of things and writes many factual and how things work guides. this is where i have got most of my understanding about tuning from. here is a link to how a wideband actually works. has some good information in there. http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_articles/id/12/how

Thanks jay. I have been thinking, is the reason most fte's run 11's because their compression ratio is really high for a turbo engine? Just like the old renault 5 engine they were a n/a with little or no internal modification to support turbocharging. Do the fte engines suffer with the same fate? Too high compression ratio so the only way to keep det at bay is to run low afr? Hence to keep the bores cool (as I mentioned in a previous post) and prevent det? Surely with a lower compression ratio something like 9:1 the afr could be increased to around the high 12-13 mark? Giving more power

What would you say is the perfect afr mech with what advance on the timing? Reason I ask is maybe charls car is advanced too little or too much? It doesn't hesitate much, to be honest it pulls strong for the afr it is giving through the wideband. Got a sard rj fpr to put on it tomorrow after I finish work then it will be back to setting up after she fits her new fmic. Like I say I'm not JUST a mechanic. I don't just fit new parts to vehicles. I do not hesitate at anything. Epicycliycs, hydralic systems and electronics are my forte at work. Not to mention pneumatic systems and overhauling c

love the coke bottle lid ^^^^^^^^^^^ also i think the problem is that the blitz bov needs more air flow through it to lift the piston inside. also could do to be nearer the inlet maybe? that way you have charged air already flowing in the correct direction to vent out of the DV?

And the drama continues I see. Plus I don't know where you got the settings for the standard starlet from dude, but we have print outs of charls gt barely leaving 14.7 afr on the rollers at race tech. That was at standard boost, with a arc top mount, japspeed exhaust turbo back and a front mounted air filter. Standard ct9. Been doing all kinds of research on this subject at the moment and its not as simple as just aiming for a afr. Depends on ignition advance, ignition curve and alsorts. But again I'm a MECHANIC and not a tuner. No harm in learning.

i just hate the way when some one says mechanic that they just think of quick fit fitter. not trying to blow my own trumpet but when you play around with £2.5M of vehicle every day it kinda takes the piss.

by the way the washer size is 10mm i believe. or if you want a even snug fit get a 3/8 washer.

you know when you wish you had just kept your mouth shut? yup thats me now. good luck with the wideband weyro.

That's the badger

I should really put up some more pics on this thread. I've put new driveshaft oil seals in the box and alsorts. Not to mention the third turbo, harnesses and a few other bits and pieces.

mine is exactly the same. i just put silicone sealer on it and its not leaked a drop.

no worries jamie. fuelling is dependent on so many variables its unreal. but the general idea is if its rich its got unburnt fuel, this unburnt fuel acts like a heat soak and removes heat from the cylinder bores. easiest way to put it is like having a wet hand, when you blow on it, it feels colder. very similar principles to how air conditioning systems work. the reason it feels cold is because the water is removing heat from your skin trying to boil off or evaporate. same principle in an engine. The fuel is trying to evaporate so it will remove heat from the cylinders to boil off or evapo

alot better adam thanks. no smoke and the boost is coming in strong at 3500rpm.

changed charls shockers at weekend, the foam part has that metal washer on the top of it. look in the third picture, the bump stop has no metal washer on the top of it. the bumpstop should be at the top of the shocker under the mount. you can even see the brown rusty ring (lol) where the washer should be.