russ78

u can test solinoid by using bits of wire from positive and negative on battery direct to the solinoid you will see and hear it working, it may also need a clean as valve could be stuck use brake cleaner and cotton wool buds youll be suprised the shit that gets clogged up inside

ttt

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ttt

toffee wheel buddy will remove all that crap best fiver you will ever spend http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Moulding-And-Stripe-Removal-Wheel-With-Drill-Adaptor-caramel-wheel-toffee-wheel-/360997541087?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item540d2154df

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I ran mine down driver side wing and cable tied near driverside headlight nice and tidy and not paticularly on show dont need miles of hose this way either

as above didn't know sasha wasn't a trader already....

SOLD

up

up

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pm'd about polymounts

http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/81424-passion-jap-essex-second-friday-every-month/

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4x4 starlets are rare in the uk buddy and require a serious amount of work to get them to turbo spec maybe import one from japland if your serious about a 4-paw

yeah cheers iddy's my next port of call just seeing whats out there first

just seeing what anyone has as i need to change seal so doing pump at same time

safest way is a standalone or piggyback that is capable of adjusting the fueling curve through the rev range, personally i wouldn't entertain a P&P to run anything more than a CT9 as that's what they were intended for, that's not to say they wont run a TD04 without issues but that's just my opinion bud. im sure tons of people will disagree now though but as said in previous post if you gonna run a TD04 on a P&P ALWAYS have it checked leave nothing to chance

save a bit more and buy EMU rather than an EMB if you want peace of mind its a far superior piggyback

personally i would advise running a RRFPR, set it to stock fuel pressure then get the ecu checked on a dyno or via a wideband, a RRFPR will give your tuner some mechanical way of adjusting your fueling should it need it as there is no other way with these P&P ecu's

you could use stock dual port actuator by putting washers on the bolt infront of actuator bolt hole to move the actuator further back thus retaining stock actuator but increasing boost marginally

very good price this GLWS dude

just a heads up buddy your bits are off a 4EFE not 4FTE GLWS

type r is quicker when the vtec kicks in its like a million unicorns farting at once but seriously better tuning possibilties with type r much stronger more reliable engine