JayJ

lol put some heavyweight in and it will feel like cotton

I took my ICV out the other day and sprayed it with a cleaner. A lot of black dirt came out, but when I put it back on the idle was still high. I decided to take it off again and opened it to see what's inside. As you can see on the picture, the center part is totally worn out/gone, so I think I have finally found the problem!

There was a note that thicker fluids are recommended for forks, so I think it means the ones used on motocross, mountain bikes etc. I'm not sure if they make the coilies too hard.

Redline sells suspension fluids and their ratings are following: HeavyWeight: 20 Wt Medium: 10 Wt LightWeight: 5 Wt ExtraLight: 2.5 Wt LikeWater: 1/3 of 5Wt Thicker fluids are recommended for forks

bump ttt etc

The problem is that my car is idling steady at 1100 when warm and I haven't found any leaks(boost gauge reading -.6/-.7). ICV and MAP sensor have been cleaned and TB idle screw is totally in. I have also checked TPS and it's set up correctly. On a TPS setup guide: Step 2. Place a 20 thou(0.5mm) feeler gauge between the throttle cable connector stop lever and the idle stop screw. The meter should read that there is continuity and the switch is closed. Step 3. Replace the 20 thou(0.5mm) feeler with a 28 thou(0.7mm) one and check continuity again. There should be none this time so the switch should be open. So, if I adjust idle stop screw I can get the idle down to 750-950, but then the step 3. will show continuity and I'll have to put 40 thou(1mm) feeler gauge to get the switch open. So what difference does it make, if the switch opens with 28thou/0.7mm or with 40thou/1mm?

As the part bag says those are valve stem caps. Not used in our engines, as the valve design is different

Are you running a stock spec?

17" is overkill on these cars. The most run 15" and some 16"

Bump for this problem as my car does exactly the same. I haven't found a single leak and my idle screw is completely turned in. Stock ecu: On cold start it idles around 1500 and quite fast drops down to 1100 and stays there. If I drive the car so it's warmed up and then stop, it will idle 1100. If the engine is running warm and I turn it off and start again it will idle around 850-900. Hit the gas pedal and it will idle 1100 again. JAM ecu: Idle never goes below 1100. The real problem is that MOT emission test requires idle to be below 1000. If I tell them to switch the car off and back on before emission test I don't think it's legit enough.

Wings look much better modified, but change the scoop for closed one

Can't see the stunning photos

finally getting manual

90916-03046

Yes he is, and paper should do the job as long it's not too thin

I'm not sure, if it's a correct one. Ask frmo Idrees, he can deliver the right one and price would be better than Camskill's

Toyota part number: 17277-11020 Camskill

You can drive it, but don't leave it leaking for weeks or months haha. Yes, if the gasket is missing compressed air will leak out and pressure won't build up.

You'll be fine for the short amount of time :-]

Quite sure you got a boost leak there then. Get a new gasket and report back.

Do you have a boost gauge and how much boost you got? PM ID-workz/Idrees and he will sort one for you :-)

You have a leak there, if the gasket is missing/broken

Haha, we just gave a half billion loan to Greece to help they out of depth and they are paying back. Yeah, for sure!

Basicly it's a DIY standalone. You get the circuitboard, components and software with a "cheap" price tag. Most installs are self tuned also, but you should be able to buy it from a tuner fully assembled/mapped too, if DIY isn't for you.

How many centimeters your flaps are from the ground?