JayJ

DGR coilies fitted...said no Starlet owner ever

Car audio stores could be the right place to find the cables and connectors. You can also replace the fuse with an automatic circuit breaker, so you don't have to have a spare fuse at all. Usually boat shops sell those and they look like this Check your current main fuse rating and go with the same rating for a circuit breaker. Don't take too low rated as the starter motor can take a lot of current. I think 100A or 150A would be enough though

640/0.30mm might be better. Do it like this: [battery+]----[fuse]----------[engine bay] connect this end to where your current battery post connects at the moment [battery-]-----[earth] connect this end to car's shell in a boot Clear?

If you have a fuse near the battery(in a boot) and the cable gets shortcircuited the fuse will burn. If you don't have a fuse (or have it in an engine bay) and the cable gets shortcircuited there's is nothing to stop the current. If you use too thin cable you'll get voltage drop as the cable works like a resistor in this case and could overheat too.

If you are going to relocate it in the boot it would be good to use 50-75mm2 cable for the safety. Remember to add a fuse near the battery in case the cable peels off for some reason then you won't burn the whole car.

98 octane is 1.6 - 1.7 euros and V-power nitro+ is around 1.75 - 1.80 euros here atm. From full tank to fuel light I get 400-450km and refill takes usually around 35-40 litres. But as StuDoc said, who bought the car for fuel economy..

Good choice, it will go like a train even with the softest settings

That red Bride seat! :droool: In love <3

Boost leak down and pull feels good, but need to adjust a bit more pressure! ;-) I bought some silicone hose yesterday for turbo water lines, but still waiting a t-stat housing to arrive, should be here anytime soon.

Few pics of the manifold, in a bad shape eh? I believe this is a genuine JAM item, but feel free to correct :-) So I went and bought a couple of different grinding stones and smoothed the collector area. Still isn't perfect, but better than it was and ready to go in. On Thursday bad luck continued as I was changing a distributor cap and a rotor arm and king lead's pin snapped inside the dizzy cap. I think bad lead was also the reason for random missfires on boost. I couldn't find the right type of lead from anywhere on Friday, but luckily Whitestar still had his stock one and I bought it from him on yesterday for a case of beer. :-D I don't have much more pictures of the different stages, because today is Mother's day and I really had to get the car ready. I didn't have much time, but managed to start the car at 22:15 yesterday evening. Still have to sort a small boost leak and wire the new gauge and the sensors. Oh, and waiting my friend to bring back my JAM FMIC with new fixings! When these have been sorted, maybe it's time to get the car dynoed finally? ;-)

Not needed anymore, I bought a brand new from Toyota

Thermostat housing?

Iddy hasn't found this yet from his hoard and I need this urgently so anyone else?

Brand new http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AEM-GAUGE-6-in-1-TYPE-WIDEBAND-UEGO-CONTROLLER-30-4100-/300378623904?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item45eff60fa0

It's been a cold and rainy day, so I decided to spend it inside. Progress wasn't fully stopped anyway as I hammered () new spark plug tube seals in the rocker cover, installed new water gaskets and bolted up the water pipes and actuator on the turbo. Idrees will also sort out the t-stat housing for me, so I don't have to go DIY with waterlines.

Looking for this part, need to be shipped to Finland

All the ripping done, this baby came out today. It looks like it has run without water line from the start. There are two bolts/plugs(can be seen on previous pic) on thermostat housing, are these used for water lines normally? Maybe I'll source some suitable connectors, so I can run the new turbo with water or will it be safe to run without? Enough for today

Ripping started yesterday and will continue today. I hate all the rusty bolts and nuts have to really fight to get them off :-D Can you spot something odd?? Yes,the complete turbo water line is missing, so WTF? This can't be good for the turbo? Any ideas how to solve this as I have only this part

How about this? http://www.jperformance.co.uk/toyota-glanza-ep91-oil-cooler-relocation-kit-12-row-50mm-core-p-762.html RHD Japan sells Greddy one, but it's pricey.

Good you had it sorted. Better to keep on eye the biting point as the nut on the adjusting rod might get loose in time and the rod can get shorter then.

If you are going to use dot 5, remember to clean the whole system, because you can't mix it with any other dot fluid(3, 4, 5.1)

I used the same 5.1 as with the brakes.

Clutch slips easier when it's hot, it's the same effect as when your brakes get very hot and you lose the braking power. So change your clutch and problem will be solved. :-) If the fluid would be the problem, it should be hard to get gears in and/or the clutch wouldn't disengage properly.

SORTED. As in picture, top faces the cover, bottom faces the ground(engine)

Which way these should be installed into a rocker cover? There was a thread about this lately, but I can't find it now, so please link if you know the thread.