pacman

Bumpr to bump-ah

Thank fuck for the internet eh? Until it's censored....

More food for thought: http://nesaranews.blogspot.com/2013/04/pictures-that-prove-double-amputee-was.html

I looked into ceramic coating and through research found http://www.zircotec.com/ to offer the best quality coatings. More £££ than I was prepared to spend though; iirc it was £160ish to coat a manifold. They will do piston crowns and valve faces too. Some people also have their turbine housings done. This article makes for interesting reading if you're into this sort of thing: http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_0612_engine_coatings/viewall.html

Sinn, you have PM. Jim, the unichip can be mapped for literally any efi vehicle. It's mapped for a TD04 Starlet atm so it's pretty much good to go but it's always best to get is mapped for your specific car. Beast, cam cover is sold.

Yes and yes. I'd prefer to sell the leads as a complete set though. I have no idea, it looks custom made tbh Rob.

Talent right there...

Bump

There are multiple methods to paint prep. Some swear by wet sanding, others dry. There are also various grades of paper available but you don't need all of them. Day to day I use 80 (rarely), 180, 320, 500 and 1000 and I only ever dry sand pre-paint. Just be aware that wet and dry grades are not equal. The only time I wet sand is on the denib/polishing stage. Also, it's handy to buy all of your products at the same place but not essential. Pretty much every paint system will work over every primer system so I wouldn't be overly concerned with that. Brown Brothers was mentioned above and they are one of the suppliers I use. This is how I'd do it and assumes you'll be using base/clear (for high solid paint, sometimes called 2k, you can 320/red scotch the primer and paint straight over that): Assuming they are used bumpers with minor damage (chips/light scratches) you should da (as said above, use 6" or you'll be there all day) with 320 dry, scuff up the remaining shiny areas with red scotch, clean it off and give the whole thing two or three coats of high build primer. Probably best to use some kind of plastic adhesion promoter on any areas of bare plastics before you apply the high build, I've seen it too many times where no AP was used and it's literally peeled off so imo it's not worth the risk. Do it once and do it right. Once the primer is dry dust it with black to act as a guide coat and block with 320. Go over the whole thing with 500 on the da, but with a soft interface pad (unsure if you have one of these, it's a 10mm thick foam that sits between the da and the disc), then quickly grey scotch to make sure you haven't missed keying anywhere. Clean it again. As it's 202 i.e. solid black I would go straight over 500/grey scotch with the two or three coats of basecoat. Once the base is thoroughly dry you can lacquer it. Give it a light coat of clear first (known in the trade as a grip coat) then hit it with 2 decent coats leaving 5 minutes to 'flash off' between coats. Refer to the technical data sheet (tds) to find out the mixing ratio (if it's a two part clear) and how long you should leave it to dry. Bare in mind that single pack paint will never last as long as a two pack product, but two pack has it's own risks (ideally you'll be using an air fed visor). Once the clear is dry denib it with 1500 wet'n'dry paper. Best to soak the paper for at least 20 minutes before using it as it softens the edges and means you're less likely to leave unwanted scratches. I'd also recommend getting some 3000 grit discs and using these wet after 1500. It will save you loads of time when polishing and means there's less risk of burning the paint with the polishing mop. So there you have it, that's pretty much what I'd do if I were in your position. Just make sure you've got some dust masks/gloves and at the very least a decent vapour mask. These products are not lung friendly. If you have any more questions feel free to ask and I'll answer them to the best of my ability. If you want to check out my credentials you can look here and here. You'll also understand why I'm called PACman

If you're gonna use a rattle can take the chill off of it with a hairdryer, you'll find the paint atomises much finer and will give you a far better finish. I can't spend much time going into details right now but will reply in more depth later. Spraying is what I do so if I can give advice I'll be happy to.

My bad, I fucked up my figures. Just pulled the dyno sheet... Obviously low to mid 11's is where you want to be. I need to sleep

Do you know your afr's? My guess is that you ran dangerously lean. 229bhp looks like great figure at 1 bar, especially mapped on 95ron. With almost exactly the same setup as you mine made 218bhp once I'd swapped the 370's for stock injectors. It made 202bhp on 370's but my fuelling was so rich it ran off the chart (<10:1) although I was told it was as safe as it would ever get. With stock injectors in (everything else was equal) it was running mid 11's:1, even touching 12.2:1 at one point. That is obviously way too lean for full boost and would eventually get me into a similar situation to the one you're in now. My GT was mapped on 97+ So yeah, that's my 2p. Personally I reckon it's a fuelling thing rather than timing, if not a combination of both. There are obviously multiple companies that have ample experience when it comes to the 4e but with everyone obsessed with their bhp figure it makes you wonder whether tuners are pushing them to the edge for a few extra horses...

The honest answer is I don't know, I have no experience with it. Your best bet would be asking someone who's been there/done that.

Yes it will. I've been told that GT cages fit Glanza's (although there will be a gap between the top of the cage and the roof) but Glaza cages will not fit GT's.

Yes. PM'd

PM'd

Removed sold items and condensed everything I'm selling into one thread. More parts added.

You have a pm

I can hear it now... "linked to Al Qaeda"

My thoughts are with the families of those affected. Things like this make you realise just how fragile we are. Also makes you wonder what the perpetrators think they'll achieve by committing acts like this? RIP to the ones that lost their lives.

Miller CRX 75w90 http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60230-millers-oils-crx-75w90-nt-competition-full-synthetic-transmission-oil.aspx

Selling a half sized alloy one here: http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/64121-benefit-from-some-breakage-assess-the-assets-on-offer/#entry822474

Yeah, completely breaking it mate. I'm 27, driving for 9 years with 7 years ncd, all Mods declared on the gt was ~£440 tpft, mr2 is ~£190 per year more. Both policies are based on 6k miles with cat 1 alarms fitted.

FIXED! Cheers Matt.

Checked, double checked, triple checked... Guess I'll just have to keep checking the site.