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First Bottom End Build - Q3. Main Cap Order


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I know that now is the time to be making sure, I'm not rubbishing anyones suggestions.

I'm just struggling to understand why I can go out and buy ACL/TAIHO/KING bearings in standard size, but these not be OK to fit to the car.

Or, why I should be questioning a person qualified to carry out a task I've asked him to do?

this is something that i've long discussed in the past....stock bearings have various sizes, which is all well and fine BUT aftermarket bearings are standard or oversized???...what gives??

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So, who's got a good guide, and what figures I should be looking for when using plastigauge?

Con-rod oil clearance:

STD = 0.016-0.048mm

Limit = 0.08mm

Main journal oil clearance:

STD = 0.016-0.049mm

U/S 0.25 = 0.017-0.061mm

Limit = 0.08mm

Can someone explain the above?

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Tim I wouldn't buy new ACL bearings due to there being made in China and changed manufacturing had a look at a set last time I was at robs and don't seem the same quality I know a couple people recently have bought original Toyota bearings instead. I can give you robs number if you wish if you require any technical info or input

Edited by abbott
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Thanks James, I understand Rob is a very busy chap so wouldn't want to bother him having not spent money there.

I've removed a piston and rod to further inspect, hard to take pictures due to the light, I'll get some better ones in the morning.

The lines run from the bottom of the cylinder to about 3/4 of the way up

RlhlMk6.jpg

I wiped the assembly lube from the big end bearing, there are some marks on that too

dc6Kr6ql.jpg

mNvpx0Tl.jpg

There are marks on the bottom and then both sides towards the top of the bearing

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because rhey use a middle size bearing to be safe you could fit there size and measure up again and find out its right on the limit with tolerance and on boosted engine it will wear out faster the loose fitting bearing If you get what I'm saying.

Could not quote the reply Tim on the shitty fone

Edited by 5e colin
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U probably have scoring on the crank from the look of that bearing there was 0 oil clearance there, I would be unsure about the bore scrapes maybe give the engine to someone that can build it properly before your out more money.

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any marks on the piston that caused the bore scrape? is the mark deep enough to feel it with your nail? or is it only visible but not detectable by feel? did you oil the cylinder walls before installing the pistons?


the mark on the bearing is indeed a no oil mark. seems like the bearing is slightly too tight there. either wrong size bearing or some foreighn material behind the bearing that is making it too tight.



make sure the bearing surface is clean before pressing in the bearing to the rod/cap. and this is why a std size isnt the best sollution. toyota made it in 3 sizes for a reason. the size diffrence is minute but can mean the world in the long run.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Chaps!

Well, I'm back from my holiday and ready to attack this!

I did oil the cylinders, put not the rings or pistons, I can't feel the marks with my finger nail and have had some advice from others to suggest that I "should" be OK. But having said that, I'm going to remove the pistons and have the blocked checked over again by someone with a professional eye, rather than relying on photos on the internet so I'll report back on that one.

I'm going to plastigauge the bearings as well. Not sure when I'll get another chance to look at this, possibly this weekend.

Will keep you all updated!

Money is not the driving force behind me doing this. I could quite easily afford to send it away and have it built up, but I want to learn how to do this, and that's what I'll do during this process.

Edited by TimD
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