Starlet Ep91 4efe turbo conversion.

[Sam44]

Thanks 

Im waiting on the front droplink roll bar arms and new bottom ball joints and top standard mounts. I can refresh the suspention. 

I've also tightend up the steering rack (rack to pinion gear preload) to give more road feel feed back and steering response. Makes a hek of a difference. 

At the minute it has the powerflex antilift kit which has started to wear so I'm going with the whiteline 1 this time round. It was used on track for 2xyears things are alittle worn. 

 

 

Edited August 2, 2020 by Sam44

[akyakapotter]

That's why I've done mine been many years also chucked poweflex rack bushes on aswell. Lots of work going on on yours I love it. 

[Sam44]

Thanks. I equally like what you are doing, I could feel your pain with the cylinder head that porting looks really nicely done. 

Just at the present I'm working all hours so it's frustrating not being able to work on the ep91 it's bad getting parts turning up but just sitting there in the boxes. 

I'm interested in the steering bushings if you can point me in the right direction. 

Fantastic little cars and the parts are very reasonable priced. 

Edited August 2, 2020 by Sam44

[Sam44]

I've just fitted the trd carbon fiber surround stainless steel gauges but the speedometer readout is off by afair amount so I've had to order a speed cut defender that has the right ratio to align the g6 corolla 6speed gearbox with the ep91 glanza v trd 160mph clocks. That's always frustrating. Picture is back on the dash modification page. 

 

Edited August 3, 2020 by Sam44

[Sam44]

Just fitting these now. As well as starting to reshape the front bumper/remove number plate mount from center to open up the intercooler flow path

 

[Sam44]

Ive just knocked this up on one of the gearboxes I have here. 

Strengthend rear center engine mount. I'm going to paint and fit it to the 6speed starleto.  

Productive 2days back to work tomorrow.  

Also some information I've been sent about the water pump impeller I'm running.

This and a low temp thermostat really allowed some good boost pressure to be put threw the n/a engine

 

 

Edited August 3, 2020 by Sam44

[Sam44]

My old timing gun was playing up.

This came to my Oxfordshire home whilst I was in Fleetwood with the starlet over the weekend. 

I got quite alot done. I'm hoping to have it back on the road and ready to Dyno on my next weekend off in a month or so. 

 

 

 

Edited August 4, 2020 by Sam44

[RoyalDutchie]

20 hours ago, Sam44 said:

Ive just knocked this up on one of the gearboxes I have here. 

Strengthend rear center engine mount. I'm going to paint and fit it to the 6speed starleto.  

Productive 2days back to work tomorrow.  

Also some information I've been sent about the water pump impeller I'm running.

This and a low temp thermostat really allowed some good boost pressure to be put threw the n/a engine

 

 

Looks like an intrestring tuning book, would like to improve the impeller myself on the next timing belt change. Engine mount looks plenty strong😲.

[Sam44]

If you look not to much into the distant past and all the way threw the history of this engines tunning life you can soon see number 1 and 2 cylinder piston failures where there is clear signs of piston seizure in the bore due to heat. Since I've been on here there has been 2 such engine failures, both on cylinder 1. Now next spark plug change read the plug and it's easy to see the cylinder temperature difference. 

Another problem that are now becoming apparent is bore glazing due to age the wear element is quite low from what I've seen.  

I was wounded when the rear gearbox mount simply ripped out of the c160, such a good gearbox. Im going to add a engine shocker located central/inline to the differencial. 

The water pump mod is really very simple adding a closed back impeller to a standard pump and getting it balanced. 

Edited August 4, 2020 by Sam44

[Sam44]

A good friend of mine has used the old zisco manifold and made a jig for this a new manifold/turbo kit. 

The turbo has evolved again this time using a td05 20g antisurge compressor housing modified to fit the 13t hybrid. I could not trust the surge I was getting with the 4e skinny rods. This should also pump more volume of air but at a smoother rate in the rpm band. 

The old 1 was good just heavy corrosion. 

He is fitting this new kit to car whilst I'm away.

I'm currently making the pre turbo throttle body.

Made up of 2x back to back 4e series throttle bodies 1x 4efe and 1x ,4efte striped out using a hks actuator to operate/open with turbo boost pressure. 

Time to start fabrication.

All new nuts bolts and gaskets used. 

Refreshed.

 

1 word :         PURPLE 

 

If this is to lazy I've have a rare tdo4hl exhaust housing and I'll use an 11 blade turbine. That's is alot lighter than the 9 blade option I'm running now. 

Bigger tdo4hl exhaust port.

It's all coming together, and I must admit the help I've received from a young uni student I work with, ho has helped build up this ep91 and thought me a few tricks when it comes to mapping.As well as his attention to detail. Many many thanks. 

Using the close ratio gearboxes gives outstanding acceleration, this allow daniel to run big ignition retard low down in the rpm band. What this does is produce high flowing very hot exhaust gasses kicking off turbo spool. 

He just needs to stop loosing my tools !!!! Haha.

Edited August 16, 2020 by Sam44

[Sam44]

These came yesterday, new big end shells. after it's been dynoed and I've got the engine oil results back from being tested. These and the oil cooler will be fitted. 

 

Edited August 15, 2020 by Sam44

[Claymore]

On 8/15/2020 at 7:15 PM, Sam44 said:

A good friend of mine has used the old zisco manifold and made a jig for this a new manifold/turbo kit. 

The turbo has evolved again this time using a td05 20g antisurge compressor housing modified to fit the 13t hybrid. I could not trust the surge I was getting with the 4e skinny rods. This should also pump more volume of air but at a smoother rate in the rpm band. 

The old 1 was good just heavy corrosion. 

He is fitting this new kit to car whilst I'm away.

I'm currently making the pre turbo throttle body.

Made up of 2x back to back 4e series throttle bodies 1x 4efe and 1x ,4efte striped out using a hks actuator to operate/open with turbo boost pressure. 

Time to start fabrication.

All new nuts bolts and gaskets used. 

Refreshed.

1 word :         PURPLE 

If this is to lazy I've have a rare tdo4hl exhaust housing and I'll use an 11 blade turbine. That's is alot lighter than the 9 blade option I'm running now. 

Bigger tdo4hl exhaust port.

It's all coming together, and I must admit the help I've received from a young uni student I work with, ho has helped build up this ep91 and thought me a few tricks when it comes to mapping.As well as his attention to detail. Many many thanks. 

Using the close ratio gearboxes gives outstanding acceleration, this allow daniel to run big ignition retard low down in the rpm band. What this does is produce high flowing very hot exhaust gasses kicking off turbo spool. 

He just needs to stop loosing my tools !!!! Haha.

Looks like some good progress, interesting with the pre turbo throttle body. I take it this is in addition to the normal throttle body? Going to be used for 80's F1 style anti lag system? Is this still the 4e or have you built your 5e up yet?

Also if you've got a jig for the manifolds how about making some copies!?

Edited August 16, 2020 by Claymore

[Sam44]

On 8/16/2020 at 7:50 PM, Claymore said:

Looks like some good progress, interesting with the pre turbo throttle body. I take it this is in addition to the normal throttle body? Going to be used for 80's F1 style anti lag system? Is this still the 4e or have you built your 5e up yet?

Also if you've got a jig for the manifolds how about making some copies!?

Your quite correct on the throttle body before the turbo. Gordini first introduced these on the Renault engine in the late 1980s F1 era to reduce turbo lag. It simple removes load/air from the compressor wheel allowing it to free spin. As the throttle opens slowly it increases air velocity into the compressor inlet. 

Massively mighty and equally impressive BMW 1.5 four cylinder 1980s F1 era 1500hp turbo engine sporting the before throttle body as seen. 

Also the V6 1.5 1500hp Renault gordini engine 1980s F1 also 

Other engines: honda & Porsche tag turbos also ran throttle bodies. 

 

Yep it's still the original 4efe engine, we have carried out full comprehensive test on the health of the engine, hydrolic test to check ring seal compression tests, oil pressure tests, leak back test to check valve seal. All came back spot on. The engine has been looked after, it was rebuilt with extras 2years ago. 

The oil will be tested for grade and contamination levels after the full setup is complete, mainly to check water, fuel, grade levels after 1 complete winter and summer cycle.

 

I'll have to get in touch with visco about copies for sale but I do have the old original full kit that is good just seen better day I might sell. 

The 5e is to be forged with the early 4efte GT MK1 head the ports are located slightly better. It's curently going into another ep82 MK1 shell very slow build this 1 but with all the best bits. 

The additional pwm table on the aem ECU will operate the hks blow off valve located just before the engines throttle body it will run operate off the 4efe tps (potentiometer) on the pre turbo throttle body which opens off the hks adjustable actuator. The blow off will open at set low turbo pressures in relation to rpm/engine load. This will remove load on the turbo compressor wheel (both removing back pressure and incoming air to pump, creating a vacuum) and allow more air to enter the engine and drive the exhaust turbine. 

The hks actuator is plumed directly into the turbo compressor housing pipe (direct boost build). 

The car came with the Baily's bov valve (bucket type) I was warned about high maintenance if you do not run a oil catch can and good engine air filter, after some research I found the early hks blow off valve was the 1 for me very robust. 

The system might sound complex but it's really quite simple, the only real hard part is setting up the pwm table. 

The aim is to get the turbo spinning and keep it spinned. (Anti lag)

1 area we have got a trained eye on will be the engine throttle control, with all the modification we have brought to the simple 4efe system we are hoping to see a very  smooth controllable throttle/power delivery helping the map sensor plot an actuate procise fuel delivery. (Engine efficiency).

 

Edited August 18, 2020 by Sam44

[Claymore]

11 hours ago, Sam44 said:

Your quite correct on the throttle body before the turbo. Gordini first introduced these on the Renault engine in the late 1980s F1 era to reduce turbo lag. It simple removes load/air from the compressor wheel allowing it to free spin. As the throttle opens slowly it increases air velocity into the compressor inlet. 

I'll have to get in touch with visco about copies for sale but I do have the old original full kit that is good just seen better day I might sell. 

The additional pwm table on the aem ECU will operate the hks blow off valve located just before the engines throttle body it will run operate off the 4efe tps (potentiometer) on the pre turbo throttle body which opens off the hks adjustable actuator. The blow off will open at set low turbo pressures in relation to rpm/engine load. This will remove load on the turbo compressor wheel (both removing back pressure and incoming air to pump, creating a vacuum) and allow more air to enter the engine and drive the exhaust turbine. 

The hks actuator is plumed directly into the turbo compressor housing pipe (direct boost build). 

The car came with the Baily's bov valve (bucket type) I was warned about high maintenance if you do not run a oil catch can and good engine air filter, after some research I found the early hks blow off valve was the 1 for me very robust. 

The system might sound complex but it's really quite simple, the only real hard part is setting up the pwm table. 

The aim is to get the turbo spinning and keep it spinned. (Anti lag)

1 area we have got a trained eye on will be the engine throttle control, with all the modification we have brought to the simple 4efe system we are hoping to see a very  smooth controllable throttle/power delivery helping the map sensor plot an actuate procise fuel delivery. (Engine efficiency).

I was joking about making copies of the exhaust Sam! 

I'm still getting my head round the proposed layout but I'm pretty sure that I've read the oil seals in the turbo need changing for running in a vacuum or the oil will be drawn past them into the compressor housing and engine?

Maybe I'm missing something but when the pre turbo throttle body is closed creating a vacuum from throttle plate to manifold throttle plate (to maintain turbo spool), it also prevents air being drawn into the compressor so it can't produce any boost? The pre turbo throttle is opened by boost pressure to a hks turbo actuator operating the pre turbo throttle body but it won't see boost because the turbo can't produce any so it won't open again?

Dunno but you've given me a puzzle to think about again.

Edit: Forgot to say, with the six speed box and final drive ratios you should be experiencing less rpm drop between shifts also? So shifting up at 6000 rpm drops you down to perhaps 4800 rpm and the turbo should still be well on song at that point with a decent dump valve and responsive external wastegate setup and modern EBC? Does the als only really provide benefits at low rpm acceleration as the boost potential from the fully spooled up turbo is available there?

Edited August 17, 2020 by Claymore
Still thinking about new stuff!

[Sam44]

18 hours ago, Claymore said:

I was joking about making copies of the exhaust Sam! 

I'm still getting my head round the proposed layout but I'm pretty sure that I've read the oil seals in the turbo need changing for running in a vacuum or the oil will be drawn past them into the compressor housing and engine?

Maybe I'm missing something but when the pre turbo throttle body is closed creating a vacuum from throttle plate to manifold throttle plate (to maintain turbo spool), it also prevents air being drawn into the compressor so it can't produce any boost? The pre turbo throttle is opened by boost pressure to a hks turbo actuator operating the pre turbo throttle body but it won't see boost because the turbo can't produce any so it won't open again?

Dunno but you've given me a puzzle to think about again.

It's not fully closed. the throttle control arm will be setup to control negative pressure. 

How much negative pressure are you thinking about. 

You do realise the range of both positive and negative pressures, 

Do you understand engine throttle and manifold pressure. 

The engine breather will also be in the line between the turbo and pre turbo throttle. 

Answer to your edit:

To answer your edit: that's if I'm on a straight strip run or quarter mile. Track and street or different altogether with a variation of widths and corner angles (exactly why this system was invented because the first F1 turbo engines struggled with out of corner acceleration against the already proven normally asperated counter parts) and that's f1/track use. Gordini famously wrote in his auto biography all other turboed engine drives complaine about turbo lag out of slow corners, his driver's asked what is turbo lag.  Fantastic book a must read. 

When we get to the street stop and starting. the close ratio box using the 4+:1 ratio final drive lsd will combine to give killer 0 to 60 mph times. The turbo tech will allow me to jump gears and even move up earlier to get to the all important 3 threw to 4 (1:1 engine output gears).

Now I bring this up Im missing the heavier 4e flywheel which stores more energy in the rotating mass which helps me to be able to do this keeping engine rpm up and power ready against the ultra lightweight and low anertia fast accelerating lightweight flywheel and small weight sensitive clutch I'm on at present. It's been areal bug bear. The only consolation is the flywheel was a second hand bargain and combined with the box and other mods it's saved me a small fortune and time on a digital ignition system. 

It's a poetic notion of driving at speed you have there, but in real action things get very interesting real fast. So yep the antilag system will increase the out of spool up turbo characteristics. 

The box is not really suited for strip use it tops out at around 140mph but I'm working on this trying to up the 4e engine torque levels to match the 5e which is great at hunting down them times. The 4e does better at advancing engine rpm (hp) what is know as a hp giver just lacks torque. 

On the strip using a 4e I'd run no lowwer than a td06 or equivalent with noss and more than likely methanol, the noss would be the antilag oh as well as the dog box from tunning developments using the high mph hitting 3+:1 final drive. That's the only way I can even see a 10second happening with out going all out visco spec. 

Edited August 18, 2020 by Sam44

[Claymore]

23 minutes ago, Sam44 said:

It's not fully closed. the throttle control arm will be setup to control negative pressure. 

How much negative pressure are you thinking about. 

You do realise the range of both positive and negative pressures, 

Do you understand engine throttle and manifold pressure. 

I didn't realise the throttle would be partly open, this would allow air into the turbo to build boost.

I have no idea about the amount of negative pressure, hadn't got that far.

Nope, not my engine setup

Think so.

It's nice to see something different and was trying to get my head round it. I'm excited to see the results Sam. Keep us posted.

Edited August 17, 2020 by Claymore

[Sam44]

6 hours ago, Claymore said:

I didn't realise the throttle would be partly open, this would allow air into the turbo to build boost.

I have no idea about the amount of negative pressure, hadn't got that far.

Nope, not my engine setup

Think so.

I'm excited to see the results Sam. Keep us posted.

Put it this way what ever positive pressure (boost pressure) the seals can withstand on both compressor and exhaust turbine (exhaust back pressures, these are generally higher) the seals can equally take the opposite (negative) pressures. 

There is of course oil pressures to consider. 

I can see how you came to the answer you did. I've not explained the engine breather system. This is setup to maintain a set relatively constant negative pressure to stop piston double pumping (know as engine parasitic losses) and promote piston ring seal. Lol ive left this off here for now as I can imagine the head scratching going on. again this uses 3x 1way check valves, oil catch tank and an inline restrictor. Between these 2 the turbo will be able to produce say 3psi at a higher rpm than it would normally produce. as the actuator reacts to this set pressure the arm opens and volecity and turbo rpm take over.  

It can be hard to understand pressures and flow rates (volumes). And in most cases if you increase 1 it will decrease the other because restrictions will increased or decreased. these restrictions can also affect velocity/speed yet another area (venture affect). These restriction apply to both the intake and exit of the system/sytems. 

Look into turbo Serge and why this happens will help you understand alittle better. This also helps explain the blow off valve idea as a negative pressure is produced and the pressure increases with engine rpm raise/engine throttle opening in an enclosed intercooler system. 

A negative pressure/vacuume of around 20 to 23psi is our target. 

I do never mean Any of my questions to be offensive in any way.  understand I'm on a club based web site. your questions are valid, I've not explained the full system or given any target figures. 

I ask my questions so I can best explain to you, gauging your understanding of pressures and volumes.

 

Edited August 17, 2020 by Sam44

[Sam44]

I've received these today. 

It's going to be a pain to Keep the track toeing hook looking like this. Only to be fitted for track with the reduced drag bumpers. 

Edited August 17, 2020 by Sam44

[Claymore]

52 minutes ago, Sam44 said:

Put it this way what ever positive pressure (boost pressure) the seals can withstand on both compressor and exhaust turbine (exhaust back pressures, these are generally higher) the seals can equally take the opposite (negative) pressures. 

There is of course oil pressures to consider. 

I can see how you came to the answer you did. I've not explained the engine breather system. This is setup to maintain a set relatively constant negative pressure to stop piston double pumping (know as engine parasitic losses) and promote piston ring seal. Lol ive left this off here for now as I can imagine the head scratching going on. again this uses 3x 1way check valves, oil catch tank and an inline restrictor. Between these 2 the turbo will be able to produce say 3psi at a higher rpm than it would normally produce. as the actuator reacts to this set pressure the arm opens and volecity and turbo rpm take over.  

It can be hard to understand pressures and flow rates (volumes). And in most cases if you increase 1 it will decrease the other because restrictions will be increased or decreased these restrictions can also affect velocity/speed yet another area (venture affect). These restriction apply to both the intake and exit of the system/sytems. 

Look into turbo Serge and why this happens will help you understand alittle better. This also helps explain the blow off valve idea as a negative pressure is produced and the pressure increases with engine rpm raise/engine throttle opening in an enclosed intercooler system. 

A negative pressure/vacuume of around 20 to 23psi is our target. 

I do never mean Any of my questions to be offensive in any way.  understand I'm on a club based web site. your questions are valid, I've not explained the full system or given any target figures. 

I ask my questions so I can best explain to you, gauging your understanding of pressures and volumes.

 

No hard feelings Sam, I was trying to understand the system (as you said without the full description / info) hence my questions basically trying to help on points I thought you may have missed. Looking forward to the results, bit of F1 nostalgia making a comeback. .

[Sam44]

13 hours ago, Claymore said:

No hard feelings Sam, I was trying to understand the system (as you said without the full description / info) hence my questions basically trying to help on points I thought you may have missed. Looking forward to the results, bit of F1 nostalgia making a comeback. .

Definitely my starlet friend we share a common interest which I'm very much enjoying. 

All the systems employed are either common to modern day engines or past technology seemingly forgotten mainly because of high and higher hp targets or modern day turbo tech no longer requiring it. With such a basic older turbo and road hp requirements target mph times this system become eligible for us to use/test. 

Edited August 18, 2020 by Sam44

[Sam44]

On 8/17/2020 at 12:07 PM, Claymore said:

 

Here is some informative links and videos that help explaine some of the things I talk about. 

 Braking bias, allowing the rear brakes to be used in a corner helping the chassis sit flat, balanced for a smoother, fast corner. 

                   SETTING UP STEERING FEED BACK ON A EP80 -EP95

                               YES THIS ALSO COVERS EP82 & EP91

A quick adjustment on all starlets especially older worn rack and pinions is to setup/adjust your steering rack and pinion gear preload. There is an adjusting screw large Allen keyed screw under and just behind where the collume/pinion meets the rack. The worn gears and even new preload is shocking leading to poor road feel (alot of free play) this makes for easy low effort turning but reduces road feel. Like all adjusting screws there's a locking ring it!!! (A TIP HERE IS USE A PERMINANT MARKER TO MARK ORIGINAL POSITION, THEN INSTEAD OF USING A CRAZY LARGE ALLEN KEY JUST TAP IT ROUND, TIGHTEN IT WITH A SMALL SHARP CHISEL).    

The way to set this up is to tighten it with the car jacked up around 45deg at a time. 

Make sure you are comfy with the increased resistance (engine off) then whilst on a test drive it's very important that the steering self centers this will require a tiny finely tuned adjustment backing off the new set preload around 30deg back at a time. Now enjoy the amazing road feed back.

Other adjustments include: clutch bight, brake pedal free play (both found behind the pedal), accelerator cable, handbrake level travel (brake shoe on Brum brakes always to be adjusted before cable)

Top tip: to gravity back bleed the clutch system after sucking out all the muck you will find in the clutch mastercylinder. This is done so as to not push the muck into the seals or small workings of this system. 

 

Crazy rack preload/worn rack. I'd struggle to drive this car it would send me crazy, and 1 of the first things I noticed and was told to adjust on this starlet. 

Pay attention to how overworked the steering is constant correction even on most straights 

 

 

 

The importance of coolant engine block pressure. 

https://haynes.com › tips-tutorials
Understanding your car's coolant pump | Haynes Publishing

https://professionalawesome.com/how-to-make-your-street-car-cooling-system-track-day-and-race-ready/

I'll add some more later I'm just crazy at work at this very minute.

 

Steering rack (rack and pinion gear) preload at the bottom of the picture, locking nut and Allen key capbolt. Not the large bolt facing in the top of the picture. Great handling mod. 

Edited September 22, 2020 by Sam44

[Claymore]

21 hours ago, Sam44 said:

Answer to your edit:

To answer your edit: that's if I'm on a straight strip run or quarter mile. Track and street or different altogether with a variation of widths and corner angles (exactly why this system was invented because the first F1 turbo engines struggled with out of corner acceleration against the already proven normally asperated counter parts) and that's f1/track use. Gordini famously wrote in his auto biography all other turboed engine drives complaine about turbo lag out of slow corners, his driver's asked what is turbo lag.  Fantastic book a must read. 

I remember recently seeing a modern F1 driver describing his drive in a turbo era F1 car (presumably without als) and the technique of heel and toe throttle actuation on braking and turn in to keep the revs high for spooling the truck sized turbo ready for corner exit! Sounded like quite a handful.

21 hours ago, Sam44 said:

When we get to the street stop and starting. the close ratio box using the 4+:1 ratio final drive lsd will combine to give killer 0 to 60 mph times. The turbo tech will allow me to jump gears and even move up earlier to get to the all important 3 threw to 4 (1:1 engine output gears).

Now I bring this up Im missing the heavier 4e flywheel which stores more energy in the rotating mass which helps me to be able to do this keeping engine rpm up and power ready against the ultra lightweight and low anertia fast accelerating lightweight flywheel and small weight sensitive clutch I'm on at present. It's been areal bug bear. The only consolation is the flywheel was a second hand bargain and combined with the box and other mods it's saved me a small fortune and time on a digital ignition system. 

I take it you're already using the 4efte crank pulley? As you know this is heavier and would add mass to the rotating assembly. Might help bring some of the missing mass back.

[Sam44]

2 hours ago, Claymore said:

I remember recently seeing a modern F1 driver describing his drive in a turbo era F1 car (presumably without als) and the technique of heel and toe throttle actuation on braking and turn in to keep the revs high for spooling the truck sized turbo ready for corner exit! Sounded like quite a handful.

I take it you're already using the 4efte crank pulley? As you know this is heavier and would add mass to the rotating assembly. Might help bring some of the missing mass back.

I could imagine there shock not having the battery motor's to send them on there way into the turbo zone. 

At the same time I bet they would love not having to worry about battery life and having the lift and coast in there technique. Alot to do in the shortest possible lap time threw a 70 lap race. Especially when you have driver's the likes of Hamilton, vettle, verstapen and leclerc. + Other with mind blowing abilities to make it look easy. 

They all know if the battery management can't match the others around them it heel and toe time\time to start driving threw the mirrors (the pack is about to attack).

 

 

Love your ability to think of how to balance this issue (real tunning of the engine). It's a very real option for the car thanks. I can always try it and see, I hope this help you understand the level of tune of the setup everything is there for a reason, every component.  The options for this production line car are near limitless, with most options production line components.

the rpm drop out on immediate off throttle (with this flywheel and clutch setup) is killer for power on the roads. Definitely suited for track use. It trips me up all the time. Bliping the throttle would make me look like a 40year old tit lol. But the acceleration is utterly ridiculous. makes me laff every time. There is no need for me to go coil on plug but the corrola dis less system might be on its way in the near future. I'm eyeing up a corrolla.

Are you aware the 4efe crank is also lighter (they are marked 4e, the heavier 4et marked cranks are there because of the lowwer compression ratio out of boost).

The heavier pully would also help prevent crank walk killing my thrust washers great idea. 

I have started to fouces on the gear shift it's important to get it right it's very fast Requiring me to kick the clutch. 

The real benefit to the manifolds and 4efe cam setups gives exceptional mid and low rpm power (peak head flow rates) a fantastic match for a high torque moderate turbo to take over. 

 

 

 

Edited August 18, 2020 by Sam44

[Claymore]

37 minutes ago, Sam44 said:

Love your ability to think of how to balance this issue (real tunning of the engine). It's a very real option for the car thanks. I can always try it and see, I hope this help you understand the level of tune of the setup everything is there for a reason, every component.  The options for this production line car are near limitless, with most options production line components.

the rpm drop out on immediate off throttle (with this flywheel and clutch setup) is killer for power on the roads. Definitely suited for track use. It trips me up all the time. Bliping the throttle would make me look like a 40year old tit lol. But the acceleration is utterly ridiculous. makes me laff every time. There is no need for me to go coil on plug but the corrola dis less system might be on its way in the near future. I'm eyeing up a corrolla.

Are you aware the 4efe crank is also lighter (they are marked 4e, the heavier 4et marked cranks are there because of the lowwer compression ratio out of boost).

The heavier pully would also help prevent crank walk killing my thrust washers great idea. 

I have started to fouces on the gear shift it's important to get it right it's very fast Requiring me to kick the clutch. 

Thanks, the parts bin raiding opportunities are what drew me to the starlet along with the aftermarket products available. Seems to be well covered from "mild" to "wild" builds. The hardest part is to cover all bases with track behaviour and then trying to have a docile "freindly" street car to drive for the rest of the time. Compromises sometimes need to be made. Hopefully the heavier pulley may just take the edge off and make the street behaviour acceptable for you. It is easy and cheap to try anyway. I do like the idea of using the corolla crank trigger and dizzy less system. Toyota O.E. development FTW. 

I had heard of the differences in cranks from 4e and 4et, I also read that someone had disassembled a late 4efe engine and it came with a 4et crank?! Could be internet BS but you never know.

[Sam44]

On 8/17/2020 at 12:07 PM, Claymore said:

 

 

Not sure why it did this, link above. I could not delete.

Yeh I think the later 4efe engines are a mix up of parts. The only thing I can think of is that Toyota cut down factory space producing some of the other parts. The later 4efe engines seem to struggle to make hp like the earlier units do. Not sure my self on the cranks, it's just what people have told me. I've also come across some 98 spec 4efte engines running the 4efe inlet cam that when they have used a td04 they achieve better hp figures. Again Toyota cutting down parts I am thinking. I know these cams exist because I've got around 15 4efte units and 3 4efe. 

Going high modified spec. it's very easy to totally miss what you are trying to achieve and can lead to problems both with money and driveability. Which then brings aggresive driving behaviour reducing reliability as well as being very dangerous for the roads. 

Edited August 18, 2020 by Sam44