CaroleBaskin91 Posted April 18, 2020 Share Posted April 18, 2020 Hi all! So I've bought my second starlet I've ever owned. I used to have a white n/a when I was 18 started glanza converting it then unfortunately crashed it. But I'm back again at the age of 29 😂 this time I'm going to complete it and turbo it. Would love to know where that car is now! So R374 WVR is my new project! I dont know much about the turbo conversion process, but I have been looking into it my parts list as follows: Ct9 turbo Exhaust Manifold Sump with return in Oil filter relocation ECU Injectors Engine loom Dash clocks Inlet manifold Intercooler and pipes Is there anything I'm missing? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted April 18, 2020 Share Posted April 18, 2020 (edited) Looks smart. I'm running a 4efe converted to take boost. Also. If you want any advice just ask or you can message me. You also need the coil and ignition igniter. If you are converting to 4efte ECU Distributor and leads + king lead Map sensor 4efte ep91 or ep82 ECU dependent Thermostate housing. Coolant pipes to turbo Full exhaust system Edited April 18, 2020 by Sam44 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CaroleBaskin91 Posted April 19, 2020 Author Share Posted April 19, 2020 15 hours ago, Sam44 said: Looks smart. I'm running a 4efe converted to take boost. Also. If you want any advice just ask or you can message me. You also need the coil and ignition igniter. If you are converting to 4efte ECU Distributor and leads + king lead Map sensor 4efte ep91 or ep82 ECU dependent Thermostate housing. Coolant pipes to turbo Full exhaust system Sweet nice one mate! What did you do first? Like what did you buy first? Or did you just gather everything together first? On 4/17/2020 at 1:36 PM, nikhilkamdar12 said: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stevie82 Posted April 19, 2020 Share Posted April 19, 2020 Or instead of using 4efte ecu u could greddy emb and have it mapped to run 0.6 bar, using a tdo4 turbo would be better for controlling the boost as u don’t want it to creep and melt the engine. Are u in Bolton? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted April 19, 2020 Share Posted April 19, 2020 (edited) I bought the car off a starlet specialist. Ho was running it on track at 200hp+ power levels for 2xyears. But he documented the full build and his research and he passed it on to me. He stayed 4efe ECU because it has a better tps and fueling map. This allows you to not bother with the wiring loom and dizzy and coil and map sensor. The det3 piggy back looks easy to use and can get the fueling required on the 295cc 4efte injectors. Also there is the hks fcd aprouch cheapest option on a fuel pressures regulator and bigger injectors I'd go pink 4afe or 7afe units no bigger use a nock sensor gauge like on my build thread and wide band gauge to setup the fueling. But I'd go no higher than 5psi boost levels. Also use a exhaust temp sensor on cylinder 1 this produces the highest temps. 1 of the first mods on the 4efe is reducing engine running temps. So 68deg thermostate and remove the throttle body coolant pipes. Edited April 22, 2020 by Sam44 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted April 19, 2020 Share Posted April 19, 2020 (edited) On 4/19/2020 at 2:57 PM, stevie82 said: Or instead of using 4efte ecu u could greddy emb and have it mapped to run 0.6 bar, using a tdo4 turbo would be better for controlling the boost as u don’t want it to creep and melt the engine. Are u in Bolton? Yep another option and a td04l is a much better turbo running lowwer charge temps safer also producing more torque. Run a large external waste gate reducing exhaust back pressure and temps ive found the zisco ram's horn to spool the tdo4l really well, plus you can get these quite cheap. This with the tail waste gate and jap speed exhaust with a high flow cat make a great combo for great full rpm range power. You can stay with the starlet inlet manifold also or with the tdo4l go with the better tubular corrola inlet producing an even cylinder power balance and fantastic low rpm torque and hp this will really kick off the td04l spool up times. Making for a monster slaying little car. Very hard to beat at relatively low boost levels. Hitting around 190hp. You will need a updated clutch the 4efe 200mm clutch slips bad around 115hp to 125hp But you can get uprated 200mm units like I'm running or use the heavier 212mm 4efte units with the 4efte flywheel. With the tdo4l I've found you can control throttle and wheel spin very good making lsd an option and not a requirement. The ct9 is the opposite. Edited April 22, 2020 by Sam44 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted April 22, 2020 Share Posted April 22, 2020 (edited) I've been reading threw the notes on the original build of the car and the 4efte power steering pump was used either from the ep82 or ep91 also the bottom mounting bracket with the adjuster to tention the belt . the low pressure pipe from the reservoir to the pump and high pressure pipe from the pump to the steering rack. These parts are needed to allow clearance for the oil filter relocation housing to be fitted. Edited April 22, 2020 by Sam44 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Patches Posted April 22, 2020 Share Posted April 22, 2020 Wee cost saving tip, you can keep the sump you have and put a fitting on it for oil return as you can see in this video, this full video series is pretty good at explaining what you need to convert na to turbo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Claymore Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 Unfortunately drilling and tapping for a screw in drain boss only works for aluminium sumps of a reasonably thickness. Thin steel sumps don't have enough material thickness for the threads and require a different approach. There are bolt through / bolt on solutions available with gaskets. Best to remove sump before drilling as you don't know whats behind it and could drill into something important like a con rod. Or you might place the outlet of the return too close to something choking the flow. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 (edited) I've also been told about using the 4efte rocker cover with the bigger breather outlet. Alot of people seem to have an issue with crankcase pressure affects crank front and rear main seals. I run 2x extra breather valves that open over a certain pressure and vent to atmosphere. I believe there has been people in the past that use a Renault sport oil filter that allows you to run a turbo kit and they use the oil journal that feeds the crank and oil pressure switch to supply oil feed to the turbo. You can find how to videos on YouTube 4efe turboed. I worry about delivery rates and pressure drop at the crank using this method but if you do it right it should be ok. I hope this helps. Edited April 23, 2020 by Sam44 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CaroleBaskin91 Posted April 23, 2020 Author Share Posted April 23, 2020 On 4/19/2020 at 2:57 PM, stevie82 said: Or instead of using 4efte ecu u could greddy emb and have it mapped to run 0.6 bar, using a tdo4 turbo would be better for controlling the boost as u don’t want it to creep and melt the engine. Are u in Bolton? Ok cheers! Still have to change to 4efte loom with a freddy ecu? And yeah in bolton Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CaroleBaskin91 Posted April 23, 2020 Author Share Posted April 23, 2020 Afternoon, so I've got to see what job it is to fit the relocated oil filter housing. I bought this with no bolts, so I will have to scavenge some. I cant see it being an issue with the three outer bolts but will I need to source the main big bolt? Anyone know where to get it? And I'm guessing the three will need drilling in the block and tapping? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted April 24, 2020 Share Posted April 24, 2020 (edited) Morning, yeh you remove the filter stud in the center and get the relocation housing big center bolt from Toyota you just need a GT or glanza chassis number. You need the sealing washer also. And housing gasket. The outer three studs are there to stop the housing turning on the center bolt, the filter\weight sits off center. They also give good clamping force. I've not got these fitted just at present. The center bolt does a good job at holding it tight just make sure you aline the housing with the block journals. Edited April 24, 2020 by Sam44 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SKINY Posted April 24, 2020 Share Posted April 24, 2020 I have a glanza sump available when I was going to turbo my Rep the parts list was, Ct9 + Mani and downpipe, oil feeds etc, the electrical side my choice was a 2 plug GT ECU and engine wiring loom and a few sensors, I was on the way to do it for 300ish quid but then I sold it and bought a GT lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CaroleBaskin91 Posted April 25, 2020 Author Share Posted April 25, 2020 22 hours ago, SKINY said: I have a glanza sump available when I was going to turbo my Rep the parts list was, Ct9 + Mani and downpipe, oil feeds etc, the electrical side my choice was a 2 plug GT ECU and engine wiring loom and a few sensors, I was on the way to do it for 300ish quid but then I sold it and bought a GT lol Well I was going to go for the td04 but last night this popped up on facebook market place near me 😁 so ct9 turbo it is! How much would you want for the sump? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SKINY Posted April 25, 2020 Share Posted April 25, 2020 WhatsApp me 07925751247 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CaroleBaskin91 Posted April 25, 2020 Author Share Posted April 25, 2020 Parts delivered and perfect day to get started on the turbo build 👍 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CaroleBaskin91 Posted April 25, 2020 Author Share Posted April 25, 2020 Painting the rocker 👌 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CaroleBaskin91 Posted April 25, 2020 Author Share Posted April 25, 2020 Going for gold toyota badge and lines on that side and black the rest Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CaroleBaskin91 Posted April 25, 2020 Author Share Posted April 25, 2020 Test fitted turbo, all fits snug. Just need to source a bolt for the oil filter housing and I will be drilling and tapping the three other bolts on that, along with a gasket to go on. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SKINY Posted April 25, 2020 Share Posted April 25, 2020 Cracking on rightly Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted April 25, 2020 Share Posted April 25, 2020 (edited) you will not be disappointed. Great weather for moding. It might be worth while to port out the waste gate port on the turbo. As engine breathing is increased these turbos are known for boost creep. Edited April 25, 2020 by Sam44 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CaroleBaskin91 Posted April 25, 2020 Author Share Posted April 25, 2020 Got stuck in to spraying the rocker cover this afternoon too Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CaroleBaskin91 Posted April 25, 2020 Author Share Posted April 25, 2020 3 hours ago, SKINY said: Cracking on rightly Cheers mate, wish I wasnt working still I'd be able to get loads more done 👍 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CaroleBaskin91 Posted May 2, 2020 Author Share Posted May 2, 2020 Update on the build : Today I spent the morning on the starlet, I had gathered a fair chunk of parts. Firstly I drilled the holes for the oil filter housing to sit and tapped them. Heat wrapped the decat pipe, I did want to wrap the manifold but the standard glanza one is small and you just cant get anything on it haha, so sprayed that with VHT paint black. So then fitted the manifold and turbo, glanza sump oil feed and return. Rocker cover went back on and I started her up, just to see if it still ran 😂 it does 👍👍 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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