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Claymore's sleeper 4efe + t build (aka the Nanza)

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You have an epic car here. I have not yet read the whole thread but I will. Your attention to detail is superb and it shows in how the car looks. Can't wait for this to progress.

I still have a really soft spot for this colour. 8K9 Really beautiful.


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1 hour ago, Keviano27 said:

Wheels suit it mate! Great work ūüĎćūüŹĽ


1 hour ago, enzo_e492901 said:

You have an epic car here. I have not yet read the whole thread but I will. Your attention to detail is superb and it shows in how the car looks. Can't wait for this to progress.

I still have a really soft spot for this colour. 8K9 Really beautiful.


:blush: Thanks guys, I don't like cutting corners but I do like an experiment or two sometimes. Small details can make a big difference. Check out JamesG's thread if you like the details, very nice.

Yes the 8k9 is probably my favourite colour, shame mine is sun faded but weirdly when I take photos in certain light it really looks purple! It reminds me of one of my first cars in design and also colour so it has inherited some nostalgic feeling already. 

:yahoo:Roll on the next round of mods!

Edited by Claymore
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4efte cam cover. The re-assembling.

Being as the weather has been absolute sh!te recently I decided to do some indoor jobs. Mainly the one I'd been putting off for months.

I had already cut down the M6 screws to the required length earlier in the month, 14 required, shortest on the outer rows and longer in the middle due to the curved outer design of the cover. Chose button head socket screws as these have the lowest profile head for their size and fitted the baffle recesses well.


All laid out ready to start, clean environment to reduce the risk of contamination.


Bought the Victor Reinz gasket set. Part number: 15-52791-01. Includes main gasket, spark plug seals and rubber lined washers to attach cover to head.


Seals were nice and pliable (compared to the hardened old items I removed) but also a bit sticky so I lubed the outer surface up with engine oil prior to fitting.


Pressed them in by hand to start. I only put pressure on the outer edge as the inner ring is flexible. Remember to get them the correct way round!


I found that the handle from my angle grinder was the exact size needed to press the seal in the rest of the way.


I set the seal at a depth I felt made sense! The edge was level with the bottom of the chamfer. (approx. 2.5 mm sub flush from the baffle surface). This should allow plenty of room for the spark plug tube to seal with out making the seal difficult to extract if its pushed in too far.


Speaking of pushing one in too far (filthy!) the second seal tilted a bit on one edge, so I wrapped an allen key in masking tape to "soften" it and gently levered the wonky side back into place. Continued until all fitted well.


Then I inserted the PCV grommet. Toyota part number: 90480-18006.


Time for the fun part!


Had the baffles re plated as I had accidentally stripped some of the original coating off during the clean up process.

Bright zinc plated, 7 microns thickness, clear passivate.


Degreased the surfaces with brake cleaner to allow the sealant to adhere. Then I laid down a thin bead of Loctite 5699 gasket / sealant to replace the original card Toyota gasket. Placed the large baffle in to position and swum it around to help the sealant mate to both surfaces. Added threadlock 243 to a bolts threads and a drop onto the threads in the corresponding blind hole in the cover (just in case). Screwed it in loose and repeated for the rest at speed. Hand tightened and then fully tightened all screws to 10Nm with a torque wrench. This should be plenty and with the additional 20Nm provided by the cured thread lock.


Didn't take many photos of that step of the process as I was aware of the gasket curing time, so the finished article is below.


An bit of a mission from start to finish, but I enjoyed the process and am most happy that I managed to save another piece of NLA Toyota goodness for my project.

Edited by Claymore
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Good work Claymore, really tidy job of reinstalling the rocker cover baffle. Might have to do similar with mine at some point, thinking about removing the pcv valve and having some AN fittings welded on for a catch tank setup. Cars looking great, wheels suit it nicely :thumbsup:

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4 hours ago, enzo_e492901 said:

Quality work, looks super clean.



1 hour ago, Sam44 said:

Really nice work as always, well seal is a great sealant to use inside of the engine. 


3 hours ago, JamesG said:

Good work Claymore, really tidy job of reinstalling the rocker cover baffle. Might have to do similar with mine at some point, thinking about removing the pcv valve and having some AN fittings welded on for a catch tank setup. Cars looking great, wheels suit it nicely :thumbsup:

Thanks it took a while but I'm proud of the results.

@JamesG I'm sure you're aware of how the PCV system works and its intended purpose. In my opinion it is important to ensure that however you choose to attach the catch can (cans!?) and route the piping that the vapours are drawn from the crankcase under vacuum (supplied by the inlet manifold and pre turbo pipework). I don't like the idea of the vapours being pushed into the crankcase and being allowed to find their way out of breathers on their own creating neutral or positive pressure in the case. Your build shows you know how things should be done so I have every faith you'll get it right anyway.

And for gods sake no-one buy this! : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-Starlet-race-spec-black-rocker-cover-EP82-EP91-GT-Turbo-Glanza-V-4EFTE/233726275713?hash=item366b2bf081:g:FdMAAOSw4slfbxMe

Its only ¬£80 and is still full of swarf from installing the fittings!¬†ūüėĪ

Edited by Claymore
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Not a huge update:

Needed the 4efte downpipe support bracket for the turbo install. Managed to find one second hand (although Amayama still list them, not sure if you can actually buy it though?)

Part number: 25591-11030. Came with the additional cat back support bracket too.

As delivered, good used condition.

s-l1600 (1).jpg

s-l1600 (2).jpg

Sand blasted and masked up the mounting surfaces ready for paint.



Acid etch primer first, then normal primer and 2 x coats of satin black top coat at 10 min intervals.

Need to clean the excess paint from the top mounting surface and chase the thread I forgot to mask¬†ūüôĄ.


Also dealt with the previous owners "paint repair". The bumper was scuffed at some point and then painted with random blue from a tin using a dead chicken for a brush!¬†ūüźď


Managed to remove the worst of it with a stanley scraper, 1200 grit w&d and some harsh brake cleaner that I keep for special purposes only. Had to be brave and hope the cleaner didn't eat the rest of the paint but it survived fine. Polished the area by hand with cutting compound.

Still scratched obviously, but honest condition now rather than an obvious cover up / bodge.


Edited by Claymore
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Even less of an update:

Got the MOT sorted at a local while you wait place. It took approx. 3 hours as there are now double the cars that need testing each month because of the 6 month extension we all got from Covid lockdown.

Still surprises me how roomy it appears in the Starlet, yet it looks small on the outside when compared with modern cars!


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13 hours ago, burty said:

looks great in that pic mate , i booked my van in 2 months ago and the celica the same mechanic i use says hes flat out as people have left it while last minute

Cheers mate :thumbsup:

I'm considering getting it re tested next April to put its MOT date back where it was. Won't have to fight the hoards in October again!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Turbo plans update....

To cut a long story short, I bought a top quality TD04 manifold and downpipe (that had to be returned as it was less than the quality expected), then Covid kicked off and I thought I'd take a chance on a mid range mild steel eBay mani and downpipe thinking any small issues would be easily rectified¬†(it was the biggest pile of sh!t I've seen for a while, had to get eBay involved to return it and lost money as the exchange rate had changed so my refund was worth less that¬†day than when I bought it ffs¬†ūüė°, to add insult to injury the import customs bill arrived the day after I had returned it !). Now the state the economy is in and job prospects looking a bit ropey I've had to put my sensible hat on as I can't justify spending the money for a new item. It sucks. but it is what it is.

Being as TD04 manifolds are always snapped up for people upgrading from CT9's I can't seem to find what I'm looking for at a reasonable price unless you want another turbo and a possibly fake wastegate.

So.....I've shelved the TF035 for the moment (unless I fancy making a log manifold?!) and I'm going for a CT9 install instead as these are easy to come by and are cheap (at the moment).

Managed to pick up a "low mileage, good condition" CT9a and stock cast manifold for £75 (much more in the price range!).

There's updates to come, don't mean to seem all doom and gloom, I'm going to make the best of it as I do.

Chinese eBay manifold collector, looks like its been welded on ship plate settings with the eyes firmly shut!


Wastegate port hacked out of the collector with a knife and fork probably! Just the tip of the iceberg with it, warped flange, no room to place the nut and bolt because the holes are too close to the runners etc.


CT9 turbo and manifold after disassembly in all its low mileage, good condition glory.


At least I can progress the project now rather than waiting around. Actually looking forward to it.

Edited by Claymore
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get that manifold and waste gate ported out. 

sorry to hear about the turbo issues. 

with the tubular corolla inlet and the 4e cam this will be off the line onit, we are talking zero lag. 

the 4efte cam would be a good option giving so improvement in higher rpm torque.


Edited by Sam44
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The porting has begun, going for the old school ported cast manifold.

Preview of the no.3 manifold obstruction being removed.


Ironically it's a bit more in keeping with the sleeper theme as well, looks like a stock CT9 and mani from the outside anyway.......

Edited by Claymore
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Just now, Sam44 said:

from what ive been told all the ports can be opened out quite a lot. 

its the manifold to turbo flange area were the cast restrictions are. 

I'm only after a mild increase in power over stock so not looking to honk out everything from every where as its not really necessary for my intended goals. I know back in the day guys were running 200bhp and 1 bar of boost with mixed results. Don't want to take it too far as there are some sections that are only about 6mm thick, then there are others that are about 15mm thick! lol.

There are obstructions in all the runners to a certain degree, some worse than others. The no.2 and no.3 are the obvious and worst lumps with the ends of 1 and 4 having a weird shrouded area as it enter the turbo flange area.

I'm working away at it a piece at a time and looking to remove all obstructions and increase / balance the runners diameter as they are all different! Minimal removal to get the job done and also to keep the mani strength up.

I'm really enjoying the process, updates to follow.

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15 minutes ago, Sam44 said:

ive tried messaging you, but its not letting me. 

its for reduced back pressure/engine health benefit's/reliability. 

Yeah I've read up on the historic forum posts (the dreaded no.3 piston ring land failure etc is well known), don't worry it'll be good.

I have removed quite a bit of material. The no.1 and no.4 exits into the turbo flange were about 2/3rds the size of 2 and 3 once their restrictions were removed. The runners taper quite a lot as they approach this area and I've balanced it quite well.

Onto the finishing stage of it now. I'll update here with a full report when its all done.

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Toyota CT9a rebuild

I had always budgeted to rebuild whichever turbo I had decided to use. So after looking for a "good condition, low mileage" turbo that everyone bangs on about being available for £50 I purchased these for £75.


Nice and clean¬†ūüėē


No oil leaking past the seals here either lol


Hairline crack in wastegate, thankfully you can't see light through it and half of it is covered by the penny. Spoke to Midland turbo about this and also sent them pictures. They confirmed that it wouldn't be a problem due to size, location and direction. They also informed me that it is quite normal for turbine exhaust housings to crack and can happen at any time with varying degrees of severity. I have decided to use the housing until it causes an issue. Could get worse after the first heat cycle or it may stay like it is for ages. Its a crap shoot apparently.


Oil residue baked onto inside of oil return cavity.


Genuine JDM crust at the base of the water coolant path.


Basic clean up by hand prior to sending for rebuild.


Edited by Claymore
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Its back!

Can't praise Midland turbo enough, the housings look as new, cleaned inside to a degree I didn't think possible. Collected and returned within a week. Turbine housing inlet and outlet gasket mating faces have been ground flat also.


Clean oil cavity.


Spotless water coolant path.


Upgraded, stock size, Instaspool billet compressor wheel.


New seals as well obviously. All studs replaced and came with a complete gasket set to re-attach the oil and coolant pipes. Also included the gaskets to attach to mani and downpipe.

Edited by Claymore
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