Claymore Posted January 26, 2022 Share Posted January 26, 2022 Can't remember exactly how I did it, but I definitely installed the turbo to the manifold first. Then installed the manifold with turbo onto the engine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frankieflowers Posted January 27, 2022 Author Share Posted January 27, 2022 (edited) Bad news. No way to get to the left lower bolt on the exhaust manifold. I had to get the downpipe off and move the turbo down after freaking out to get the left lower and bolt off. It was rusty and impossible to get off. The bad news is that the right end bolt on the manifold showed a crack on the engine. Luckily it is external so we might save the situation with some black putty. I really don’t know how you guys get turbo and manifold off. It’s been a nightmare for the last two days. The complication added on top of everything is that the downpipe has been welded on the custom exhaust pipe that is way too close to the chassis and there is no way to get it off. I don’t know how this guy did the job without thinking that I had to take it off one day. Some people shouldn’t work on engines. Edited January 27, 2022 by Frankieflowers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frankieflowers Posted January 27, 2022 Author Share Posted January 27, 2022 Bad news. No way to get to the left lower bolt on the exhaust manifold. I had to get the downpipe off and move the turbo down after freaking out to get the left lower and bolt off. It was rusty and impossible to get off. The bad news is that the right and bolt on the manifold went off and showed a crack on the engine. Personally it is external so we might save the situation with some black putty. I really don’t know how you guys get turbo and manifold off. It’s been a nightmare for the last two days. The complication added on top of everything is that the downpipe has been welded on the custom exhaust pipe that is way too close to the chassis and there is no way to get it off. I don’t know how this guy did the job without thinking that I had to take it off one day. Some people shouldn’t work on engines. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frankieflowers Posted January 27, 2022 Author Share Posted January 27, 2022 17 hours ago, Frankieflowers said: Bad news. No way to get to the left lower bolt on the exhaust manifold. I had to get the downpipe off and move the turbo down after freaking out to get the left lower and bolt off. It was rusty and impossible to get off. The bad news is that the right end bolt on the manifold showed a crack on the engine. Luckily it is external so we might save the situation with some black putty. I really don’t know how you guys get turbo and manifold off. It’s been a nightmare for the last two days. The complication added on top of everything is that the downpipe has been welded on the custom exhaust pipe that is way too close to the chassis and there is no way to get it off. I don’t know how this guy did the job without thinking that I had to take it off one day. Some people shouldn’t work on engines. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted January 27, 2022 Share Posted January 27, 2022 Oh gutted, horrible news. You would be able to get it weilded back on. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobSR Posted January 27, 2022 Share Posted January 27, 2022 I split the turbo off the mani when it’s stock manifold, you can get to them all with swan leg spanner’s That’s then frees up a lot of room to get at the two underneath the manifold Always takes a while the first time you do it, then it gets easier You can get the crank on the head welded up, looks like it had been blowing there too from the colour Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frankieflowers Posted January 27, 2022 Author Share Posted January 27, 2022 18 minutes ago, RobSR said: You can get the crank on the head welded up, looks like it had been blowing there too from the colour Exactly. It was ticking until temperature was sealing it and it would work normally but I was tired about it so I knew there were something there. I really don’t want to get the cylinder head off. I wish that the welding guy could use the laser system without having to disassemble everything. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frankieflowers Posted January 28, 2022 Author Share Posted January 28, 2022 2 hours ago, Sam44 said: Oh gutted, horrible news. You would be able to get it weilded back on. I know my friend. I am so sad tonight. I knew there was some thing there that was wrong but it was working OK with the temperature up but I needed to fix it. I just don’t want to get the engine apart to bring the cylinder head to the welder. I really wish the guy could fix it with the laser welder without getting the part out of the car. I know it’s practically impossible but I’ll talk to him tomorrow. Where can I find a cylinder head in case this won’t be fixed properly? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frankieflowers Posted January 28, 2022 Author Share Posted January 28, 2022 Can you guys please tell me the procedure to get the cylinder head back on? I don’t have new bolts. I only have the gasket kit to replace some parts. I need to know if I have to go extra 90° when I put the bolts back on. I will once side in a video but I am not sure. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frankieflowers Posted January 28, 2022 Author Share Posted January 28, 2022 I have to open the engine. The original manual gives torque numbers. My question is if I use the original bolts and I don’t have new ones and it would take too long to buy them from Japan, do I have to add extra 90° on the cylinder head bolts when installing the head again? once I saw a video where a guy was adding 90° to the torque Toyota was providing and of course following the spiral method. please help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Claymore Posted January 28, 2022 Share Posted January 28, 2022 If it was my car I would get a set of ARP head bolts to use when re fitting the head. It's the ideal time if the head has to come off. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frankieflowers Posted January 29, 2022 Author Share Posted January 29, 2022 12 hours ago, Claymore said: If it was my car I would get a set of ARP head bolts to use when re fitting the head. It's the ideal time if the head has to come off. Please give me a link. I checked on the web and shipment form the UK would take at least five weeks what’s the best procedure to take the head off? should I get the inlet off before or after? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frankieflowers Posted January 29, 2022 Author Share Posted January 29, 2022 Which OEM bolts. There are two codes here. Thanks! BOLTA AND WASHERS FOR 4efte ep91 CULINDER HEAD 90910-02100 90910-02101 WASHER FOR CYLINDER HEAD 90201-09024 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted January 30, 2022 Share Posted January 30, 2022 (edited) Yeh as claymore has suggested, use arp head bolts. There is some debate whether the original head bolts are stretch bolts. After opening a few engines I would say they are. Even thew there does not seem to be much added lenght (stretching) of the old bolts I've measured, if any. They do have the tell tale shanfer on the bolt, as a rule most bolts that have a final Deg angle torque to me means it's being taken into elasticity tensile peak. At the point of stretch the bolt helps clamp better (stretch bolt) The arp have a final torque setting of nm. This to me would suggest it a boron steel bolt even thew they do also have a shanffer on the bolt. It's very important to take your time and get it right. There are lots and lots of 4e and 5e head gasket issue, once an original engine has been opened. I can't find one instance were a original factory build engine head gasket had failed. This only leads me to think that there is something drastically different. Now because people are not using the Toyota head brackets/supports that come with the original engine, found on the inlet manifold and exhaust manifold designed to support the head. Head movement can't be ruled out here. The Head bolts are designed to clamp the head, to deal with combustion pressures. not have to deal with any other forces. also on the production line the head bolts are tightened down all evenly at the same time by a machined, because of this I would personally break the 3x torque settings given in auto data into 5x steps, this ensures a more evenly crushed composite head gasket, and a very thick head gaskets at that. what is very strange to me is the fact the head bolts on the inlet side are a different length to the bolts on the exhaust side. This to me should have different final torque settings between these to bolts, the longer ones should have a higher torque setting. The composite gaskets are also impregnated with a adhesive. I would allow the head once fitted to stand for 6 to 10 hours before being run, also doing a final torque check after the engine has cooled down after first run. (This can't be done using stretch bolt). The factory built engines I've opened the head gasket had adhered (bonded) to both the deck and head helping seal. All the out of factory built engines I've open using a composite head gasket there were none, not one that had even bounded at any point to either surface. Could this be because the adhesive compound in the gaskets has a shelf life. When I've done mine I've used wellseal on both sides of the gasket to help bound & seal. Please use gloves when using wellseal it's toxic. Use a original Toyota head gasket, or a vicktor reinz. Clean up both the block deck and have the head surface skimmed flat. Cut the heads off 2x of the old head bolts and hacksaw a flat screw screwdriver key slot into the top of them. These are used, placed into the block in opposite corners to guild the head back on when your ready to install. Also it is very important to check the deck dowl clearance in the head holes. After skimming a head the holes are shallower, the dowls can bottom out if the clearance is out. After you have cleaned the block beck surface. You then clean out the head bolt block holes, use an old head bolt to do this. make sure after cleaning you can screw each head bolt in right to the bottom of the screw hole by hand nice and easy. It removes any false torque/ impedance. That would be my way to do it, but I believe the man that knows everything on here is patch, you might want to ask him for alittle advice. Im very interested to see how this man builds. Edited February 2, 2022 by Sam44 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frankieflowers Posted February 2, 2022 Author Share Posted February 2, 2022 On 1/30/2022 at 2:12 PM, Sam44 said: Yeh as claymore has suggested, use arp head bolts. There is some debate whether the original head bolts are stretch bolts. After opening a few engines I would say they are. Even thew there does not seem to be much added lenght (stretching) of the old bolts I've measured, if any. They do have the tell tale shanfer on the bolt, as a rule most bolts that have a final Deg angle torque to me means it's being taken into elasticity tensile peak. At the point of stretch the bolt helps clamp better (stretch bolt) The arp have a final torque setting of nm. This to me would suggest it a boron steel bolt even thew they do also have a shanffer on the bolt. It's very important to take your time and get it right. There are lots and lots of 4e and 5e head gasket issue, once an original engine has been opened. I can't find one instance were a original factory build engine head gasket had failed. This only leads me to think that there is something drastically different. Now because people are not using the Toyota head brackets/supports that come with the original engine, found on the inlet manifold and exhaust manifold designed to support the head. Head movement can't be ruled out here. The Head bolts are designed to clamp the head, to deal with combustion pressures. not have to deal with any other forces. also on the production line the head bolts are tightened down all evenly at the same time by a machined, because of this I would personally break the 3x torque settings given in auto data into 5x steps, this ensures a more evenly crushed composite head gasket, and a very thick head gaskets at that. what is very strange to me is the fact the head bolts on the inlet side are a different length to the bolts on the exhaust side. This to me should have different final torque settings between these to bolts, the longer ones should have a higher torque setting. The composite gaskets are also impregnated with a adhesive. I would allow the head once fitted to stand for 6 to 10 hours before being run, also doing a final torque check after the engine has cooled down after first run. The factory built engines I've opened the head gasket had adhered (bonded) to both the deck and head helping seal. All the out of factory built engines I've open using a composite head gasket there were none, not one that had even bounded at any point to either surface. Could this be because the adhesive compound in the gaskets has a shelf life. When I've done mine I've used wellseal on both sides of the gasket to help bound & seal. Please use gloves when using wellseal it's toxic. Use a original Toyota head gasket, or a vicktor reinz. Clean up both the block deck and have the head surface skimmed flat. Cut the heads off 2x of the old head bolts and hacksaw a flat screw screwdriver key slot into the top of them. These are used, placed into the block in opposite corners to guild the head back on when your ready to install. Also it is very important to check the deck dowl clearance in the head holes. After skimming a head the holes are shallower, the dowls can bottom out if the clearance is out. After you have cleaned the block beck surface. You then clean out the head bolt block holes, use an old head bolt to do this. make sure after cleaning you can screw each head bolt in right to the bottom of the screw hole by hand nice and easy. It removes any false torque/ impedance. That would be my way to do it, but I believe the man that knows everything on here is patch, you might want to ask him for alittle advice. Im very interested to see how this man builds. Interesting post. I agree that engines shouldn’t be opened but unfortunately when things like this happen we have to be wise enough to fix them properly hoping that everything will be fine. I even showed your post to my older brother that has decades of experience and he agrees but he told me that tightening bolts three times should be enough. I am following the procedure on the Japanese manual. I bought new balls from Toyota and I have my new gasket ready. I did not buy new bolts for the camshaft. The cylinder head and valves has been cleaned by professionals. We clean the basement head because we obviously didn’t take out the engine from the car. Let’s wish that everything will be great! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted February 2, 2022 Share Posted February 2, 2022 I'm sure it will be back together in no time. Get us some pics but don't let taking pics distract you from the job at hand. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frankieflowers Posted February 3, 2022 Author Share Posted February 3, 2022 11 hours ago, Sam44 said: I'm sure it will be back together in no time. Get us some pics but don't let taking pics distract you from the job at hand. Of course my friend. We love this engine and I’ve put a lot of passion and money in this project. Nobody will get my dream out of my mind. IMG_5694.MOV IMG_5682.MOV IMG_5663.MP4 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted February 3, 2022 Share Posted February 3, 2022 Nice work, tidy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frankieflowers Posted February 3, 2022 Author Share Posted February 3, 2022 8 hours ago, Sam44 said: Nice work, tidy. I just went to get the 10 bolts for the cylinder head. Truth is that five are code 100 and other five should be 101. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted February 3, 2022 Share Posted February 3, 2022 You might want to port/open out the turbos waste gate port. This will stop boost creep when you decide to remove the efi pipe/turbos induction pipe. This efi pipe is really quite restrictive on power. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted February 3, 2022 Share Posted February 3, 2022 (edited) 46 minutes ago, Frankieflowers said: I just went to get the 10 bolts for the cylinder head. Truth is that five are code 100 and other five should be 101. Yeh, when you start to get into this little car with a technical head. The errors can be found everywhere. Edited February 3, 2022 by Sam44 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frankieflowers Posted February 3, 2022 Author Share Posted February 3, 2022 2 hours ago, Sam44 said: Yeh, when you start to get into this little car with a technical head. The errors can be found everywhere. The guy at the Toyota shop made me so mad. He didn’t help when O aaked him about the two codes before ordering them. I hate to waste time and money. He won’t take the extra bolts back so ai had to pay for them and won’t be able to do the job in the weekend. On the other hand Toyota could have showed both bolts on the parts website. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frankieflowers Posted February 3, 2022 Author Share Posted February 3, 2022 2 hours ago, Sam44 said: You might want to port/open out the turbos waste gate port. This will stop boost creep when you decide to remove the efi pipe/turbos induction pipe. This efi pipe is really quite restrictive on power. Can u you please elaborate this? by the way turbo clock cannot be moved. Someone wrote that I could move the hot pipe entrance on the turbo down to be able to reach the rear bolts during disassemble but I doubt that is something you want to do that would compromise turbo clock. Am I wrong or right? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted February 5, 2022 Share Posted February 5, 2022 It's the turbo inlet pipe, you will see the restriction right at the turbo inlet it narrows, flattens in places and has a few bends all at this point. As soon as you remove the restriction (remove this pipe) on these you will experience boost creep. Basically the turbo waste gate port is to small to regulate the turbo boost pressure effectively. This port now needs opening out/porting . You can clock the turbo compressor housing it will not affect the turbo but you will need to make a bracket to mount the actuator. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frankieflowers Posted February 5, 2022 Author Share Posted February 5, 2022 18 hours ago, Sam44 said: It's the turbo inlet pipe, you will see the restriction right at the turbo inlet it narrows, flattens in places and has a few bends all at this point. Do you have a picture? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.