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Well if you can help me figure this out, Lottie has agreed (she hasn't really but I don't think she'll mind) to give you one! Free of charge.

Electronic central locking...YAYYYYYY :rolleyes:

Ok, so the breakdown is, my windows work both up and down, my central locking locks on the button but doesn't unlock, and both doors will lock with the key but the passenger door doesn't open with the key in the driver's door... So basically the central locking doesn't work with unlocking.

I've done a reading on all the wires and tried what I thought would be the solutions but nothing.

If imagine these connectors go from 1-6, count from left to right, top to bottom, (#2 isn't actually a wire)

DSCF3812.jpg

And the colours if anyone understands the concept of Toyota colouring... (#2 isn't actually a wire)

DSCF3811.jpg

Colours of wires are;

#1 RED

#2 Not a wire lol

#3 GREEN

#4 RED with WHITE trace

#5 BLACK and WHITE

#6 GREEN with RED trace

I've broke it down into 3 sections.

1) What the wires are doing with no buttons pressed.

#1, Earth

#2, N/A (not a wire lol)

#3, Earth

#4, Very weak 12V

#5, Earth

#6, Power (Reading about 10V)

2) What the wires are doing when the LOCK button is pressed

#1, Earth

#2, N/A (not a wire lol)

#3, 12V POWER

#4, Very weak 12V

#5, Earth

#6, EARTH (If I keep the power probe on the pin when button is pressed, the locks keep reciving power until I remove it or give it a 12v and then the locks will "relax". excuse my technical language lol)

3) What the wires are doing when the UNLOCK button is pressed.

#1, Earth

#2, N/A (not a wire lol)

#3, Earth

#4, EARTH

#5, Earth

#6, Power (Reading about 10V)

Judging on the layout of the wires, I think #1 and #4 are for unlocking, #3 and #6 are for locking and #5 is just a constant earth. So I figure the problem is with wires 1 or/and 4. Although #4 does earth when the button is pressed... Logically (to me) I thought when the button was pressed if #4 becomes an earth, #1 should become 12v? So I tried giving it 12v both with the button pressed and not pressed and it does nothing.

Can only assume its down to wire 1 being gay, or wire 4's weak 12v? A relay? Although locking works so lol.... Baffled!!!

Any help would be really really appreciative.

Edited by aaddzz123
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I agree its 1/4 that you are looking at. id say its either the switch itself not sending the 12v from 4 over to 1 when unlocking or the very weak 12v signal. id pull a 12v supply over and feed it with a stronger feed just to test it.

Have you tried a new switch atal??

And p.s ill be at jae to collect my blow job :D

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Forgot to add most central locking has a seperate control box module witch on a v is up the back.of the dash id try replacing that to as that will be sending the switch feeds further down the line to the locking motors.

P.s now i want two bj's lol

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haha :D Some quality replies there.

I'll inform Lottie that she needs to dash out 4 blow jobs.

Well I think I found the problem yesterday! Traced the wires back to the "Door control" box which I found by feeling for the relay clicking. Tried the wires to the box and all semt in order so I took the box out and funny enough, shook it and something was rattling :p.

Popped the circuit out and found this;

IMG_1689.jpg

Not sure what the little thing is... A diode or something? God knows lol! My electronic education began a few days ago when I started this so hey :p

I can only imagine its that causing the problem anyway.

So if anyone has one, I'm after a new box!

IMG_1686.jpg

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The two small gague wires going into that box are the lock anf unlock signal wires. They use a negative pulse (to ground) to either open or close your door locks. I believe the two wires are the green with red trace and red with white trace.

But yea you will need a new/another box. Give kurt a ring from near barton he is breaking a mk3.

Edited by Flaminsam
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that looks easy fixed its a transistor isnt it. look at the writing stamped on it or if you cant see look at the one next to it and google it and search ebay, rs electronics, maplin ect to order one then just solder it in.

Edited by Bean
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