Hawwy Posted July 7, 2013 Share Posted July 7, 2013 Hi allMY mates glanza has a plug and play ecu etc, but car not going over 120? Starts juddering like its getting held back at around 100mph.at 120 It starts popping and just goes to about 55-60k revsWhy would that be am sure it shouldntSorry posted in wrong section Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Beastmode panda Posted July 7, 2013 Share Posted July 7, 2013 Speed restrictor. You can buy a speed cut defender. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawwy Posted July 7, 2013 Author Share Posted July 7, 2013 It has a p&p ecu though Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted July 7, 2013 Share Posted July 7, 2013 (edited) Is it genuine? And normally speed restrictor just cuts out until it goes back under 113mph Edited July 7, 2013 by morgey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WallaceGlanza Posted July 7, 2013 Share Posted July 7, 2013 It's not definite that all p&p ecu's will remove the speed cut.... but it doesn't sound like speed cut! Sounds like a misfire. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawwy Posted July 7, 2013 Author Share Posted July 7, 2013 (edited) Yeah at 120 if foot is kept down it stays at 120 and keeps popping constantlyIts a genuine unit and sealed.it supposed to remove fuel cutIf its a missfire that would explain it. Because after 100 it feels like its missing and judders or slight jerks is a better way to explain it. Then at 120 just pop pop pop Edited July 7, 2013 by Hawwy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted July 7, 2013 Share Posted July 7, 2013 Just go checking through ignition components until you find the problem. Probably rotor arm and distributor cap. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawwy Posted July 7, 2013 Author Share Posted July 7, 2013 Okay how can i tell if its either of them, just buy and try? Cant get on my private road everyday lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawwy Posted July 8, 2013 Author Share Posted July 8, 2013 Also in all gears it dont go past 5500 revs Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted July 8, 2013 Share Posted July 8, 2013 (edited) Sounds more like fuel cut or something Edited July 8, 2013 by morgey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TrisK Posted July 8, 2013 Share Posted July 8, 2013 Plug gap? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawwy Posted July 8, 2013 Author Share Posted July 8, 2013 (edited) Why would it fuel cut with it had pandp ecuWhat gap should it be its a ct9 0.8 bar Edited July 8, 2013 by Hawwy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike@TD.co.uk Posted July 8, 2013 Share Posted July 8, 2013 Have you tried it with less boost? i.e. 0.7bar to ensure it is well below even factory fuel cut? Any error codes? Have you check the condition of the plugs, dizzy cap and rotor arm? Are you monitoring the boost? Is it boost creeping? Cheers Mike JonesTuning Developments Ltd Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawwy Posted July 8, 2013 Author Share Posted July 8, 2013 (edited) Plugs are okay bit brown but clean. Still got plenty on them.I will check rotar arm and dizzy cap but how can i tell if its worn,And no i have not tried it yet below 0.8Best way to check error codes?Cheers mike Edited July 8, 2013 by Hawwy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikey4410 Posted July 8, 2013 Share Posted July 8, 2013 error code info, google starlet diagnosis all the info you will need from the first hit on tgtt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
New Guy Posted July 8, 2013 Share Posted July 8, 2013 Sounds like timing issue? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawwy Posted July 10, 2013 Author Share Posted July 10, 2013 Mate took car out for a run this morning, lower gears it now pulls all the way,But it does still feel a bit like juddery don't know how to explain, all i did was clean plugs and gap them.So what you all think, its got no lambda thats next thing to try Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Beastmode panda Posted July 10, 2013 Share Posted July 10, 2013 I don't have a lambda either, it won't be that. Just buy new dizzy cap and rotor arm, only about £20 or so for both and even if they don't fix the problem it's good to have changed them still and it will eliminate the fact of it possibly being either of those. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawwy Posted July 10, 2013 Author Share Posted July 10, 2013 (edited) All sorted now boys Edited July 10, 2013 by Hawwy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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