whitestar Posted July 9, 2013 Share Posted July 9, 2013 (edited) So my JAM ecu fuels the setup too rich with ported stock mani and stock CT9 (decat too). I have also FMIC. What can be done to adjust the fueling to be spot on? I have AEM wideband so I'm able to monitor the mixture all the time. I think it runs so rich that it makes me lose fair amount of power. Better flowing turbo might correct the situation a bit, but can't do it quite yet as hybrids may cost a fair amount of money... Edited July 9, 2013 by whitestar Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TurboTobz Posted July 9, 2013 Share Posted July 9, 2013 What's the afr at wot? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
russ78 Posted July 9, 2013 Share Posted July 9, 2013 (edited) you can fine tune your fueling with a RRFPR even on a piggyback ecu tuners will use a rrfpr to fine tune the mixture to get it spot on perfect Edited July 9, 2013 by russ78 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DavidAshton Posted July 9, 2013 Share Posted July 9, 2013 More boost. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
whitestar Posted July 9, 2013 Author Share Posted July 9, 2013 On full boost it might be even 10.0 when driving like 120-140kmhAnd my boost is already at 1bar Quote Link to post Share on other sites
whitestar Posted July 9, 2013 Author Share Posted July 9, 2013 you can fine tune your fueling with a RRFPR even on a piggyback ecu tuners will use a rrfpr to fine tune the mixture to get it spot on perfect What does RRFPR actually do? What is the difference between FPR? Can this do harm to my engine? I know my friends who are more in to engine tuning say that don't touch RRFPRs or FPRs, get instead decent engine management but don't want to put that kind of money in to this right now. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
russ78 Posted July 9, 2013 Share Posted July 9, 2013 (edited) all petrol cars have a FPR (fuel pressure regulator) it does exactly what it says on the the tin it regulates the fuel pressure from the pump and a RRFPR is the same just adjustable allowing u to adjust the pressure from the pump basically allowing more fuel to flow to the fuel rail so it gives you a mechanical way to adjust your mixture, as long as your not silly with it you wont damage your engine set it to 2.5 bar then adjust according to what your wideband is telling you as a safe course of action if you are running higher boost and thinking of trying the above method i strongly advise upgrading the fuel pump to a walbro 255 as adding a RRFPR will put more strain on the 15+ year old fuel pump and you dont want it packing up on you Edited July 9, 2013 by russ78 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
StuDoc 72 Posted July 9, 2013 Share Posted July 9, 2013 Relocate the air filter? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TurboTobz Posted July 9, 2013 Share Posted July 9, 2013 (edited) Could try a rising rate it'll be of use if you upgrade turbo or get it mapped like russ says. I know these p&p ecus do like over fuelling I'd like to know what afrs others are getting Edited July 9, 2013 by TurboTobz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monty1991 Posted July 9, 2013 Share Posted July 9, 2013 did ya try resetting the ecu and doin sum miles off boost? my zep ecu was runing 10.0 afr once reset and after couple hundred miles is settled around 11.6.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Weyro Posted July 9, 2013 Share Posted July 9, 2013 the standard regulator is an rrFPRyou want an adjustable rrFPR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JayJ Posted July 9, 2013 Share Posted July 9, 2013 all petrol cars have a FPR (fuel pressure regulator) it does exactly what it says on the the tin it regulates the fuel pressure from the pump and a RRFPR is the same just adjustable allowing u to adjust the pressure from the pump basically allowing more fuel to flow to the fuel rail so it gives you a mechanical way to adjust your mixture, as long as your not silly with it you wont damage your engine set it to 2.5 bar then adjust according to what your wideband is telling you as a safe course of action if you are running higher boost and thinking of trying the above method i strongly advise upgrading the fuel pump to a walbro 255 as adding a RRFPR will put more strain on the 15+ year old fuel pump and you dont want it packing up on you Not only RRFPR's are adjustable, but you can have an adjustable FPR too. RRFPR will multiply the pressure and FPR will raise the pressure at the same rate, please correct me, if I'm wrong. So which one would be better to use? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AdamB Posted July 9, 2013 Share Posted July 9, 2013 Not only RRFPR's are adjustable, but you can have an adjustable FPR too. RRFPR will multiply the pressure and FPR will raise the pressure at the same rate, please correct me, if I'm wrong. So which one would be better to use? Correct, a FPR is just a fixed rate type although adjustable ones are available. A RRFPR will rise will boost and lower with vacuum. Depends what your tuner prefers really, its much more accurate to get a good linear torque curve with a fixed FPR, I think anyway others will have their own opinion. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TurboTobz Posted July 9, 2013 Share Posted July 9, 2013 (edited) Also, have you checked your lamda ? Edited July 9, 2013 by TurboTobz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gibby1980 Posted July 22, 2013 Share Posted July 22, 2013 I am in the same boat. I have a jam fitted and even at 18psi my AEM is at 10 flat. Once I saw it reading 10.5 but that lasted only for a few seconds. I will try the reset ecu option to see if that makes a difference. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gibby1980 Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 Just to add. I did the reset and that did not change the the AFR's once the ecu settles. At WOT and 18psi the gauge would show a solid 10. I have seen it going to 10.6 when nearing 8k rpm but the ecu knocks it back to 10. I have tried hotter plugs with a closer gap and I still see the same 10. Note: I read 11.5 - 11.7 only when the boost is under 12 psi. Once you go over, the JAM ecu takes it to a full 10. My AEM reads the 14.7 - 16.5 on idle. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gibby1980 Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 That is a picture of the state of the spark plug. All four of them are like that. http://i1314.photobucket.com/albums/t576/Jason_D_Gibson/plug_zpsa43f2c15.jpg Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mikep82 Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 I had the same problem, the only way to solve it to remap it or use the 102/105 ron fuel they use in Japan.Get some octain boost. I fill her up in Germany with ron102 and its fine ;) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikey4410 Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 Factory ecu makes the starlets fuel to as low as 10.5 for safety and longevity,so that is what i aim for.never go lower than 10.5 if u can help it.apparently borewash aint far away if you go any lower,that and wasting fuel 14.7 to 16 on idle is bang on also.good Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gibby1980 Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 Hi Mike, Here in Barbados different grades aren't available at the pump sadly. I think 86 - 90 RON (I would have to confirm that) is what we get. I use octane boost along with that. Thanks for your input by the way mate. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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