Chops Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 Hey, chops here with another problem, im reinstalling a refurbished turbo, but dont want it to oil starve when i first start it, and want to confirm a good method of making sure its ready to start before i do. Ive fished about a bit, and it seemslike the done thing to put some new oil into the turbo itself and wind it round a bit, fit it all up, then crank the engine round for a bit with the starter motor with the ht leads pulled out to stop it firing, trying and fill the feed lines up ready to go. this sound about right? any idea how many cranks would be enough to achieve this? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 EFI fuse outKing lead offOil return line off the sump and crank till oil comes through, best to get a bucket, and a buddy to help out with this part. I've done a few turbos this way with no issues Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chops Posted November 25, 2013 Author Share Posted November 25, 2013 EFI fuse out King lead off Oil return line off the sump and crank till oil comes through, best to get a bucket, and a buddy to help out with this part. I've done a few turbos this way with no issues i see, cheers! another question, ive found that my hks adjsutable actuator didnt fit beside the original efi pipe, so ive had to add 15mm of metal into the mounting bracket, and trim the adjustable pushrod to suit. ittle be a bugger to adjust once its all back together, does anyone know how many mms of preload would roughly equate to around 11/12 psi on high boost? thnaks again! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chops Posted November 26, 2013 Author Share Posted November 26, 2013 Anyone? Please lol? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zeldoz Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 (edited) 123mm is about 11.5 PSI - 11.7 PSI Source: https://home.comcast.net/~ronald_miranda/hksactuator.pdf Edited November 26, 2013 by Zeldoz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TrisK Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 https://home.comcast.net/~ronald_miranda/hksactuator.pdfAnyone? Please lol? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chops Posted November 26, 2013 Author Share Posted November 26, 2013 i cant use that, ive cut the rod right down so i can fit everything back into my bay. surely the rods length doesnt actually matter, its about the tension in it between the wastegate arm and the actuator itself that decides when the actuator starts to open the wastegate? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zeldoz Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 i cant use that, ive cut the rod right down so i can fit everything back into my bay. surely the rods length doesnt actually matter, its about the tension in it between the wastegate arm and the actuator itself that decides when the actuator starts to open the wastegate? No... It's to do with the length of the actuator arm.. read the guide... If you need a brand new HKS actuator, drop me a PM selling one still boxed for £100 delivered Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ollieh17 Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 I have a replacement turbo to put in, hasn't been rebuilt just came off another starlet. Will i have to do something like this when i swap them over? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
keirz Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 (edited) No... It's to do with the length of the actuator arm.. read the guide. If you need a brand new HKS actuator, drop me a PM selling one still boxed for £100 delivered that arm length chart is only a guide.the length of the arm is only relevant to give an indication on the amount of pre load on the actuater. Its the actual load that defines the boost. I would start at 3/4 or maybe half of the hole load and work from there. Take it out check boost and adjust til your happy. Edited November 26, 2013 by keirz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chops Posted November 26, 2013 Author Share Posted November 26, 2013 that arm length chart is only a guide.the length of the arm is only relevant to give an indication on the amount of pre load on the actuater. Its the actual load that defines the boost. I would start at 3/4 or maybe half of the hole load and work from there. Take it out check boost and adjust til your happy.i cant get to it once everythings back in, i have to get it roughly right before it goes back together. i need to know how far away from the closed wastegate arm the end of the rod is when set to 11/12ish psi. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JayJ Posted November 28, 2013 Share Posted November 28, 2013 I don't see why your actuator won't fit with the efi pipe or why you can't adjust it? Have you put everything right way up? Any pics? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
A L 3 X Posted November 28, 2013 Share Posted November 28, 2013 Put a boost tee on to adjust it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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