Gainzy Posted March 22, 2014 Posted March 22, 2014 People run their ct9's and tongs etc at 1.1 bar I have heard you make better power at 1 bar because the heat is a little less saturate...I run a JAM actuator it holds boost straight up at 1bar but they say the HKS one's are better as boost comes in stronger as the spring is weaker but it holds fine for me just after opinions for when my blitz turbo gets set up Quote
5e colin Posted March 22, 2014 Posted March 22, 2014 personaly 1 bar is really the limit after its more heat and realy realy stressing the tiny hair dryer i hate ct9s there just smoke machines the hks actuater is indeed very good at holding boost external gated is way better Quote
Gainzy Posted March 22, 2014 Author Posted March 22, 2014 The ct9 has done me proud so far I still may go external gate but surely how much noticable quicker would external be than internal on ct9 I don't think it's worth doing...would sound awesome though! Quote
5e colin Posted March 22, 2014 Posted March 22, 2014 wont be quicker just better at controlling boost actuater will give boost spikes external will only drop a psi or so so way safer Quote
Gainzy Posted March 22, 2014 Author Posted March 22, 2014 I would need a boost controller I suppose if I keep the 1bar actuator a little overspike or bit weaker will keep safe in a way and I wouldn't have to adjust it in the winter the last thing I want to do is weld the wastegate or port it on a rare turbo after having eveything rebuilt suppose I will keep the JAM actuator and wack it on internal will save cash and keep it simple Quote
patman Posted March 22, 2014 Posted March 22, 2014 I'm running a ct9 @ 0.8 bar got 195bhp on the dyno I like to keep it safe the car is quick enough for me, I was always told (true or false) 1 bar is pushing the limits on a ct9 opinions on this please guys Pat Quote
seab Posted March 22, 2014 Posted March 22, 2014 If we need external wast gates to manage higher boost pressures maybe it's a sign to get a bigger turbo. Shows the compressor side maybe able to deliver the mass flow requirements but the turbine side is mis matched to what people are trying to run :-)I realise bigger turbos mean more money, but do toyota not have anything in their catalogue with a slightly bigger turbine housing to aid the flow, this could help reduce the compressor pressure ratio (ie run less boost, this will in turn lower the COT and bring the the compressor side back into the efficiency island). Just a thought folks :-) Quote
Gainzy Posted March 22, 2014 Author Posted March 22, 2014 Good result Pat I'm sticking at one bar, see the stock ct9 seems to manage around the same as the tongs in some cases, Micky boy combined his turbo using a lucinder ct9 running different internals that's an option or the blitz ct9 with the ct12a compression wheel I'm sure there will be other options I just wanted to see what views peolle have on running that extra .1 boost, blitz made an actuator thats pre set to 1.1 there is a TOM'S aswell but I think that's a 1 bar... Quote
patman Posted March 22, 2014 Posted March 22, 2014 Great topic too gainzy if a ct9 can hold 1 bar safe with standard internals etc then I would be happy to up the boost a tad on mine Quote
mikey4410 Posted March 22, 2014 Posted March 22, 2014 as above the ct9s are a bit to small and have agro holding anything other than stock boost, that and they tail of to early.dont like them at all.I would be interested to see if an ebc would help with the boist control on a ct9 .im guessing it wouldnt. Quote
Vturbo Posted March 22, 2014 Posted March 22, 2014 I'm running 1 bar on ct9 with a Hks actuator. I just kept the EFI pipe and it holds boost fine Quote
Gainzy Posted March 22, 2014 Author Posted March 22, 2014 I had an ebc it was no use would only say to use them external wasyegate for a bigger turbo, I do agree though they tail off boost quick I think an uprated mani would help..there still a 1.3 at the end of the day I think warmer weather would suit a 1.1 bar I just want to know if it's work changing my actuator for .1 of a bar lol probably not it just looks good on paper Quote
Vturbo Posted March 22, 2014 Posted March 22, 2014 I personally wouldn't bother for the .1 of boost Quote
Bluebear Posted March 22, 2014 Posted March 22, 2014 I run 0.8 bar on a CT9, externally wastegated, and to be honest, it's enough for me. Any further in terms of boost, then I'd have to fuck about with management and fuelling and all that shit, and really, that can wait until I get a bigger turbo. Quote
Gainzy Posted March 22, 2014 Author Posted March 22, 2014 I personally wouldn't bother for the .1 of boostThat could be 5bhp lol see that way I look at is why did blitz a respectable company make a 1.1 bar actuator and a hybrid turbo if .1 didn't matter I suppose it's the compression wheel been bigger as the the stock and tongs are equal to each other therefore a 1 bar would suit best...but then JAM ran the blitz hybrid on a 1 bar actuator lol I just think .1 bar on the ct9 is a weaker choice or I just need to go to bed and forget about it! Quote
patman Posted March 22, 2014 Posted March 22, 2014 When I got mine dyno'd the bloke cut the vaccum pipe from the actuator to the turbo and put a T-piece in it so I have one leg on the T-piece just venting like a breather not sure why he did do this Quote
richardc9052 Posted March 23, 2014 Posted March 23, 2014 He did what!!?? Mate that means your actuator wouldnt have been operating.. would the the same as just removing it! Quote
Gainzy Posted March 23, 2014 Author Posted March 23, 2014 When I got mine dyno'd the bloke cut the vaccum pipe from the actuator to the turbo and put a T-piece in it so I have one leg on the T-piece just venting like a breather not sure why he did do thisHmm that doesn't sound right! Quote
patman Posted March 23, 2014 Posted March 23, 2014 Ok so to get this right the pipe going from the actuator to the turbo should just be one pipe not split with a t-piece? Thinking about it he did say at the time my actuator is very weak as is on its way out, Gonna put my refurb turbo on soon and that will have a hks actuator going with it. Strange though as this place I went to called minicraft have 500bhp minis with nos so yes seems strange why he did this although with the t-piece in the pipe the car was boosting well Quote
Dean_mc88 Posted March 23, 2014 Posted March 23, 2014 I Have a TMD hybrid turbo and they have been known to run at 1.2 max , ive done a lot of reading on it and on tgtt.com there's a few people saying 1.1 is fine This is from a fair few years ago mind Quote
richardc9052 Posted March 23, 2014 Posted March 23, 2014 You sure it's a t piece and not an MBC? Quote
TurboTobz Posted March 23, 2014 Posted March 23, 2014 (edited) When I got mine dyno'd the bloke cut the vaccum pipe from the actuator to the turbo and put a T-piece in it so I have one leg on the T-piece just venting like a breather not sure why he did do thiswas it dyno'd by Stevie by any chance?Stevie wonder..? Edited March 23, 2014 by TurboTobz Quote
patman Posted March 23, 2014 Posted March 23, 2014 You sure it's a t piece and not an MBC?It's a t-piece alright something tells me he was setting it up like a MBC maybe? was it dyno'd by Stevie by any chance?Haha Tobz but I am gonna get to the bottom of this Stevie wonder..? Quote
patman Posted March 24, 2014 Posted March 24, 2014 http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&title=DIY-Boost-Control&A=107770Found this, if you scroll down to where it says "wastegate bleeds" that's exactly how mine is set up, I still don't know for sure if it's a good idea or not, opinions please 😄 Quote
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