amatthews45 Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 (edited) well its time to stop messing and get the bottom end sorted. Its a 1994 GT turbo 4efte Lots of people have said I can do it with the head on even though lots say I cant. I been told a N/A crank would be best and set of OEM bearings. But also been told I could take to a engine builder and they can regrind and make up a set of bearings is that right? Whats my best option? I am gonna fit new seals and gaskets everywhere but removing the head bumps up the price so thats one thing I wont do. If people think oem bearings could someone link me a set please not going to get ACL because they need changing more. I know many people have ruined there bottom end so most of you can relate to what I am aiming to do. Cheers Edited November 4, 2014 by amatthews45 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rwdrev Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 i have pm'd you. 4efe crank is good to use. many have been used in turbo applications. just do it right now or you will basically be putting your money on the fire but not getting any heat from it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
_shaun_ Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 You can use a n/a crank. What exactlys wrong with the bottom end? If it's just spun bearings you should get away with just the sump but if its anything else I'd Personally take the head off and just inspect everything to make sure its all spot on Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rwdrev Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 if its spun, then its got to of done damage, also depends on how much running it got after the problem started. at most the engine needs removing, turn it upside down, whip sump and crank out, get a fresh crank with correctly sized shells (not my way of doing it) or a .25 undersize regrind with new shells of your choice and build it back up with A ****NEW**** OIL PUMP!!!!! This will get you going again until the pistons fail..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 Seen countless amounts of these cheap rebuild type threads now, mostly ending in tears shortly followed by a breaking thread lol.Nah kidding on, most of us want to do things that save a few quid but you just have to weigh up the cost / disaster factor and have a think on the best option Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rwdrev Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 Seen countless amounts of these cheap rebuild type threads now, mostly ending in tears shortly followed by a breaking thread lol.Nah kidding on, most of us want to do things that save a few quid but you just have to weigh up the cost / disaster factor and have a think on the best option exactly what this man says ^^ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
amatthews45 Posted November 4, 2014 Author Share Posted November 4, 2014 Not sure how much damage or runnning tbh not alot I bought it broken off a mate. The car cost me 400 ok shes rough but I wanna fix her and get her running perfect. If a piston fails then I will get another block and forge this one but atm I am in no postion to but if I get 6 months with this fix I will be a happy boy! So anyone know where I can get OEM bearings The car is off the road and has been since it spun a bearing This is the only time I have started http://youtu.be/411voV62oos Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jordan walker Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 Camskill sell oem bearings but brace yourself theyre twice the price the acl ones are.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
amatthews45 Posted November 4, 2014 Author Share Posted November 4, 2014 Swear I seen a link for fairly priced set before I did search but cant find it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 (edited) Hello mate have read of this first (below link) before you do anything I have just built my 1994 GT and there lots of info on here about bottom end etc, and of course big thanks to Colin for a massive input in this.I got oem bearings from toyota cost me £175 for whole set mains and big ends 👍http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/86453-big-end-and-main-bearing-sizes/?fromsearch=1 Edited November 4, 2014 by patman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 You can use a n/a crank. What exactlys wrong with the bottom end? If it's just spun bearings you should get away with just the sump but if its anything else I'd Personally take the head off and just inspect everything to make sure its all spot on if it spun a bearing then its crank out engine out and gearbox of to get the crank out Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 Seen countless amounts of these cheap rebuild type threads now, mostly ending in tears shortly followed by a breaking thread lol. Nah kidding on, most of us want to do things that save a few quid but you just have to weigh up the cost / disaster factor and have a think on the best option thats only becouse they get rebuild by rookies that dont know how to and havent even got the propper tools for the job ( useually ) built right they will last a good while Quote Link to post Share on other sites
_shaun_ Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 if it spun a bearing then its crank out engine out and gearbox of to get the crank outAye its engine out I only ment sump off as he said about taking the head off Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 thats only becouse they get rebuild by rookies that dont know how to and havent even got the propper tools for the job ( useually )built right they will last a good whileExactly. No point doing it half arsed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
amatthews45 Posted November 5, 2014 Author Share Posted November 5, 2014 if it spun a bearing then its crank out engine out and gearbox of to get the crank outYeah engine comming out for sure. Gonna the bay a tidy and clean and try ditch things I dont need like the rest of the AC and the carbon canister. Also gonna mount a decent catch can for a race spec rocker. So the engine can breath. Tbh it was bound to die since it had a cheap FPR lots of boost and a crap breather on rocker. Dont know when it was last serviced either.So once engine out the plan is Replace all rubber pipes with either braided or silicone line eg fuel lines/brakes/ clutch. Service gearboxService engine.Sort out any wiring out. Then hopefully a nice rebuilt bottom end. My mate runs a garage and has all the tools and access. have plenty of people around me who have built engines just never worked on a starlet. The more I learn off you guys the more I can question what we doing is correct I want it done properly but dont want the extra cost of removing the head and doing the piston rings too! I dont think they need doing and will risk it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 No one wants the extra cost mate I certainly didn't but you may as well do the whole lot, not just half the job at least then you will know you have a fully rebuilt engine, like you said it was bound to die so that would tell me to be safe do a whole new rebuild 👍 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
amatthews45 Posted November 5, 2014 Author Share Posted November 5, 2014 I really dont have the money too Its gonna take a few weeks just to save for the bearings. My plan was to get on the road for feb so can duel policy it with the kia plus means I dont have to share a car. Car running means I can finally look for a new job to afford a forged engine rather than skimp saving for parts haha Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ollieh17 Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 Personally if you're doing all that. I'd ditch the idea of braided lines everywhere and do the rings while everythings off. You can always do the lines later on Quote Link to post Share on other sites
amatthews45 Posted November 5, 2014 Author Share Posted November 5, 2014 Already got most the lines already. I get peoples suggestions and appicatethem but I still not conviced to take the head off yet :/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 has headgasket been replaced before? when are you going to be in such an easy siutation to replace it again? i wouldnt put much weight on the OEM vs ACL arguement either, id buy ACL or King everytime. Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 mathew if it span a bearing then the rod will be fucked and cant be used anymore so head will have to come off for rins use ebay 5efe rings or 4efe wich ever is cheaper Quote Link to post Share on other sites
amatthews45 Posted November 5, 2014 Author Share Posted November 5, 2014 I will be in much better sitation in 6-8 months time. Could be moving in with the missus parents house that means my 10 minute bus ride to work will have to be a 35 min drive instead because the bus there could take a hour and sod that! So if thats the case the starlet needs to be done for February the latest. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 Not all would agree but this is what i'd do if you want it up and running asap. Pick up a running 4EFE engine for like 100 quid and bolt the turbo stuff on. Run it low boost. That way it'll be running and you can save up for a proper rebuild with the FTE. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 Because lets be honest, firing rebuild parts on an engine thats kinda half stripped down and not properly inspected is pikey and just a waste of money, because no doubt a ringland will go or something and you'll kick yourself for not checking for cracks in the pistons etc. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 Not all would agree but this is what i'd do if you want it up and running asap. Pick up a running 4EFE engine for like 100 quid and bolt the turbo stuff on. Run it low boost. That way it'll be running and you can save up for a proper rebuild with the FTE. works wel singalong at 10psi on ct9 unopened 4efe so if you want to be safe stick to 8 and it will never dy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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