Calum122 Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 Hi, Engine is leaking oil, I was hoping it was the sump and that it needed resealing, however after been under it all day I'm not convinced. I think It's going to be the crankshaft seal. But my question is, how do you remove the sump? Mine is on there well and truly! Can't even make it budge, and I imagine it isn't invincible so don't want to try too hard and damage something. Am I right in thinking it's just the nuts and bolts that surround the sump? What's the technique? Am I missing something. I've removed all the bolts around the flange but are there more? Any advice appreciated. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WallaceGlanza Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 It'll just be the sealant holding it on, pry it off evenly so as not to bend the flange. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Calum122 Posted May 9, 2015 Author Share Posted May 9, 2015 Cheers matey. So tight and annoying lol. Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ollieh17 Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 Bitch to seal, spent ages on mine and still leaks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
turbo Grant Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 Beat it off gently with a hammer, just sealer holding it on after the bolts and nuts are removed. But when sticking it back on preparation is the key. Just like painting Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 Flat head screwdriver it open, and then run a knife round the sealer.Clean the mating faces, wire brush drill bit, emery paper, whatever. Make sure theyre 100% dry.Make sure the sump surface is straight and true.Apply good sealer. Not too much or you'll end up with it blocking the oil pickup.And the 10mm bolts only go to something like 8Nm so dont go mental.And tighten them up the same kinda way youd do a cylinder head. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Calum122 Posted May 9, 2015 Author Share Posted May 9, 2015 Cheers lads. I read that tutorial on TGTT so hopefully fingers crossed. I bought that stuff I think you recommended Dan, 'ThreeBond' I think it's called. It's not leaking from the sump. So I'm thinking it's going to be the crankshaft seal. Which is gay cause I've just done the cam belt and it's all going to need redoing. Am I right in thinking the seal I want to change is going to be the one on the oil pump? And in which case that's going to be either in the block or on the pump itself. GT's are on the pump, but god knows if this is the original engine. For those of you that don't know, I bought a High Wycombe special I'm afraid. Has been nothing but trouble and money. I got it running the other week after 6 months of headaches. She drives spot on. Just the odd coolant leak and now this oil leak. I got ripped off on this motor. There wasn't any fancy Optional Extra's or what not and for the money you could have got a lot cleaner examples. It's my first car so I just fell into that trap. However, taking the sump off today...I've noticed this, these aren't stock are they? I'm under the impression they are ARP con rod bolts. Who would put ARP bolts on stock rods? So I took a closer look and I believe I'm right in saying that this engine is forged? Wasn't even sold as that. Was sold as boggo standard? If this is the case, I think these might be scat rods, the pistons look forged too, but without dismantling it all I won't be able to check what brand. As said, if they're forged then the jokes on those KNOBS that sold me the car. Told me it was fine when there have been a fair few problems I've had to fix with this. But finally this might be some good news. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flaminsam Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 They are forged rods and prob forged Pistons. Good find! the sumps are a pain to seal. Also the oil seal on the crank is a little awkward but not impossible to do. Another thing to look at is possibly the dip stick tube. That has a small o ring on the bottom and I've had a few leak before ;) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 You jammy bastard! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Glanza-Ben Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 You are one lucky git, you have now come off laughing from the high wycome slipper wearing idiotsAlso use vw sump sealer its the best for all sumps Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ollieh17 Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 (edited) Lucky boy!Bit of good from the trouble youve had Edited May 9, 2015 by Ollieh17 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akyakapotter Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 Surely it was knocking from cold being forged? But still what a score Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Calum122 Posted May 10, 2015 Author Share Posted May 10, 2015 Aye she was a little rattley but I was just well you know 214K on the clock so it's bound to be! I'll check the dip stick a that wouldn't surprise me as to be one of the problems. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bluebear Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 AHahahh, what a bloody brilliant turn of events!! Chuffed for you mate Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Calum122 Posted May 10, 2015 Author Share Posted May 10, 2015 Yeah, I mean I was going to forge it anyway, and might still. I've got no idea on the condition really. The car generally has been absolutely battered so I bet that engine has taken some abuse. But I can't warrant forging, an already forged engine. So I'll wait for this to pop and then sort something out. But yeah, sounds promising. I think I have a little more confidence in the car now knowing that it has had some engine work to her Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bluebear Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 Might be worth getting a camera down into the spark plug wells to see the tops of the pistons? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Calum122 Posted May 10, 2015 Author Share Posted May 10, 2015 I've already done the head gasket and the pistons were mirror finished polished. Looked like in okay condition, mind you I won't claim to be a engine expert Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Glanza-Ben Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 give it a full service, get a nice size turbo kit, and the fuelling parts and a ecu and get it mapped up to 300bhp Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Calum122 Posted May 10, 2015 Author Share Posted May 10, 2015 I was thinking Racetechs CT9 Hybrid for 230 Bhp with Ram horn manifold. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Glanza-Ben Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 I was thinking Racetechs CT9 Hybrid for 230 Bhp with Ram horn manifold.Would not bother waisting your money on that lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ollieh17 Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 Agreed go big ;) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Calum122 Posted May 10, 2015 Author Share Posted May 10, 2015 Aww I've driven my brothers TD04 and it's totally different from a CT9. The power is bigger and better yes. But there is lag. But I suppose mine will probably get tiresome to drive after some time. Probably go WEPR Hybrid with Ram Horn Manifold and standalone then. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Calum122 Posted May 10, 2015 Author Share Posted May 10, 2015 Or maybe the GT20 Kit??? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Calum122 Posted May 10, 2015 Author Share Posted May 10, 2015 I've let the sump stand for 24 hours. Just torqued up the bolts to 8.3 Nm, won't be driving it for a few weeks anyway. Some of the exhaust bolts were corroded and rounded off so I've got some new stainless bolts making their way to me. I'm a stainless addict I'm afraid. Massive fixings tray full of every nut and bolt, except the ones I actually need it would seem. But really handy on rebuilds. Just replace everything together. Get the exhaust back on next week. Won't be driving the car to Japfest I'm afraid as I just haven't tested it enough. Will be in a Toyota.....Yaris But hopefully I shall meet and greet some of you guys there next week. I'll be the one wearing the UKSO blueprint Tee Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Glanza-Ben Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 Am i right in thinking you have just torqued the bolts after refitting the sump 24hours ago? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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