Amjad Posted November 3, 2015 Author Share Posted November 3, 2015 No I think it drives pretty smoothly dude Quote Link to post Share on other sites
goldenvtr Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 EML hasn't come on, can I still trigger codes if I do a diagnostic check? yes you can still got the test... with engine and ignition off bridge te1 and e1 with a paperclip or peice of wire then turn ignition on and count the blinks you might get code 14 if you've tried to turn it over and it didnt start. im assuming the mines ecu retains fault codeslike the stock ecu Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ep82gi Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 No I think it drives pretty smoothly dude Fair enough. Just I had similar symptoms with mine caused by waxing of the fuel filter Just an idea have you checked the voltage at the pump? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted November 3, 2015 Author Share Posted November 3, 2015 yes you can still got the test...with engine and ignition off bridge te1 and e1 with a paperclip or peice of wire then turn ignition on and count the blinks you might get code 14 if you've tried to turn it over and it didnt start. im assuming the mines ecu retains fault codeslike the stock ecuAh I never knew that, thanks! Will give it a go and see if there's any codes Fair enough. Just I had similar symptoms with mine caused by waxing of the fuel filterJust an idea have you checked the voltage at the pump?I haven't but I swapped a new Walboro in a few days ago, seems to be running okay. Next time it happens I'll see if I can prime the pump at all through diagnostic plug Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5T4R7ET N/A Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 This happened to another car of mine and it got worse as time went on, turned out to be distrubitor on it way out.Check the basics like battery clamps, take off and clean them. Bit of sand paper to get good contact Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted November 4, 2015 Author Share Posted November 4, 2015 Will do, distributor and rotor arm replaced with Toyota items about 6m ago Quote Link to post Share on other sites
funny onion Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 Found the reason why my red GT does this now... Turns out the distributor is arcing out. I was bleeding the coolant system up with wet hands and i got a good belt off it. I've got the little sachet of water resistant dielectric grease that came with my magnecores though so i'm going to try that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5T4R7ET N/A Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 Will do, distributor and rotor arm replaced with Toyota items about 6m agoYou replaced the distributor? or just cap and rotor arm? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted November 4, 2015 Author Share Posted November 4, 2015 Found the reason why my red GT does this now... Turns out the distributor is arcing out. I was bleeding the coolant system up with wet hands and i got a good belt off it. I've got the little sachet of water resistant dielectric grease that came with my magnecores though so i'm going to try that. Where would you apply the grease, around the contact points? You replaced the distributor? or just cap and rotor arm? Oh sorry just cap and rotor arm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
turbo Grant Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 Defo get a new toyota ecu temp sensor. It's so overlooked! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5T4R7ET N/A Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 I would say get a temp sensor first as its the cheaper option then if its not that i reckon its the distributor.You have done the fuel pump, earths and temp sensor then, so the only thing left will be distributor.Im pretty sure it will be that, i had it happen randomly at first then it slowly got worse and completely gave up. If its not a daily you could wait for this to happen and you will know 100% when it produces no spark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted November 4, 2015 Author Share Posted November 4, 2015 I appreciate the help guys, big time! Will get a new temp sensor ordered and see what happens Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted November 11, 2015 Author Share Posted November 11, 2015 Temp sensor probably came through the post today, shame I can't get home as car won't start lolCan't even bump start it, doesn't want to fire up at all Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted November 11, 2015 Author Share Posted November 11, 2015 An hour later, managed to get it started. Weirdly if I prod around the connections for the HT leads, it fires up a few mins later. But anyway I got the new sensor in, time will tell but it seems to run a bit nicer. Let's hope that's sorted it! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dan106 Posted November 13, 2015 Share Posted November 13, 2015 Was the idle any different dude? Has the new sensor fixed it? Mine randomly wont start first time every now and again Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted November 14, 2015 Author Share Posted November 14, 2015 Yeah definitely stabilised the idle quite a bit! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted November 17, 2015 Author Share Posted November 17, 2015 So after a week of running perfectly, it's decided to conk out again! Same starting issue as before I had the coolant temp sensor replaced but this is the first time since I got the new one put in that it hasn't started Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted November 17, 2015 Author Share Posted November 17, 2015 On further investigation I can't hear the fuel pump prime when I crank the car over. I actually can't even hear it prime when I do the fuel pump test by bridging the diagnostic port connections Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted November 17, 2015 Author Share Posted November 17, 2015 Ok really weird, I took #4 spark plug out to see if I've got spark.Obviously connected it's HT lead and earthed the threads to the rocker cover and went to crank. The car started up first time on 3 cylinders? WTF? Totally confused now as to what's causing this issue. Is it a dodgy earth or is there something wrong with my fuel or spark? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted November 17, 2015 Author Share Posted November 17, 2015 Bump, any ideas? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ep82gi Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 Have you checked voltage at the pump? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted November 18, 2015 Author Share Posted November 18, 2015 Was gonna do it yesterday but was shattered by the time I eventually got it started and got home hahaWill check it today after uni Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gorganl2000 Posted November 20, 2015 Share Posted November 20, 2015 Just a wild guess....but how is your fuel filter? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted November 20, 2015 Author Share Posted November 20, 2015 (edited) It was replaced about 2 years ago, I do have a new one to go in. Haven't managed to check voltage at the pump yet. Uni/exams (last exam on Monday) have delayed getting this sorted out but I'll be sorting any niggles in the next few weeks I hope Also noticed the check engine light flickering as I start the car (quite consistent) Edited November 20, 2015 by Amjad Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Amjad Posted January 2, 2016 Author Share Posted January 2, 2016 Can't believe this, changed my distributor and after a week of driving the car it's got exactly the same problem as before with not starting up Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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