gorganl2000

Member
  • Content count

    843
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About gorganl2000

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

1840 profile views
  1. Swap 5efhe and 4efte pistons

    i'm agreeing with 5e Colin and Sudden...keep the package together
  2. 5efhe tuninig

    i always liked the idea of the n/a 5e, very glad yours turned out well, really shows that we have a lot of local talent for a small island...i once built one (2006/2007 iirc) but disassembled it before i installed it and rebuilt it to accommodate turbo..i figured if done properly it could make 150whp with race gas, but it just started to get too expensive for my liking and the power it would make ---but the ITB idea and rev sound was tempting at the time...lol was that power figure achieved on our pump gas? or race gas? or pump plus additives/meth?
  3. Negative wire on the coil pack

    unfortunately i've never seen an ep91 diagram like the above i'd like an ep91 version of this myself...and trust me i've looked long and hard
  4. Negative wire on the coil pack

    https://www.scribd.com/document/226086926/EP82-Starlet-Wiring-and-Connectors-2   that's the most comprehensive diagram with pictures that i know of hopefully its of some help to you   based on the key...it seems pictures 55 and 56 may be on interest to you 
  5. Swap 5efhe and 4efte pistons

    i dont know if it makes a difference as i have never measured the pins to see they are indeed different, but we use the 5efhe rods with 4efte pistons and 4efte pins   PS---on the other side of the coin, if i were putting 5efhe pistons on 4efte rods, i'd use 4efte rods with 5efhe pistons and 5efhe pins
  6. Torque steer with TRD diff fitted.

    if you are on uneven road that can also cause "pulling"
  7. Cylinder Head Thread

    i'd not say its pointless...lol....it really depends on what you "need" from your engine vs what you "want" to have-----there is a difference  i do admire your builder's honesty though (and honest tradesmen in general)....some builders would gladly take you money knowing that the work they do would be relatively useless for the project but as i said above, for the average project a stock rebuilt head (you could even do some very mild port/polish work) will usually be enough i suppose some people like to say i have "a race spec head that can rev to 10,000rpm with massive cams and larger valves" on the car (which ironically "only" runs a hybrid ct9/td04/td05)
  8. EP91 - Juddering in 1st gear

    ran a diagnostic? codes?
  9. Cylinder Head Thread

    I've read many a post on the various starlet forums over the years and seen many views/approaches/opinions/combinations. I've spoken to many people ("experts", average joes, backyard specialists, performance enthusiasts, etc.). I've seen many posts and sometimes dyno results with head porting/polishing, uprated cams, valve work, uprated spings, adjustable cam gears and various combinations. 1) And here's my take when it comes to the 4e/5e head. For the most part and average build, i'd leave it alone. It seems to give you 350bhp++ in some set ups, can rev to 7500/7600rpm (some even risk 8000rpm max but i'm not sure if that may induce more valve float?!?) , gives good drive-ability throughout the rev range. I suppose our engines are pretty old now and in some cases the heads need a decent refresh (valves and stems cleaned/checked for tolerances, valves seated properly, valve stem seals changed, inlet/exhaust cam lobes checked to make sure they are within spec, valve/cam clearances checked and adjusted as needed, etc.). A decently rebuild oem spec head actually performs quite well (no oil or air/vacuum leaks),,,i'd guess it would satisfy many builds from ct9 to td05 sized turbos 2) now saying that, i do think the stock heads can be further improved IF done properly ---remove casting marks, minor port and polish work to match manifolds. again, this is not massive head work i'm talking about yet. And it should not cost you an arm and a leg to get it done. If you are handy and have the tools some persons risk doing it themselves, but its usually best left to people who know what they are doing or if you are lucky enough to get guidance from such persons. 3) now for the serious racers/builders looking to get every ounce of power out of the car, i'd say 350/400bhp +++  and high revs (8000/9000rpm). This is where all the above head work comes into play and for sure you should get an expert to undertake this work because it needs to be perfect, no room for errors with larger valves, angle cuts, port and polish and flow tested, uprated springs/valves/cams in combination.  4) i've noted a few "backyard" people do seriously modified heads with good/great results, but it usually does not turn out well for many who try it. Also, the people who usually got it done after much trial and error and/or from years of experience in the area don't usually tell you their "secrets"    so imo, options 1 and 2 are for the average builds, while options 3 and 4 are for the serious projects PS - on a side note and maybe a separate tread, sometimes and i repeat sometimes persons install massive short runner aftermarket intake manifolds and massive throttle bodies that are not well suited to their modest builds (ct9, tf/td04/vf3x/vf2x/td05 running 0.5-1.5bar)  which shifts the power band to the right (higher in the rev range) and then "erroneously" determine that head work is needed to correct the issues. No, its not, your inlet manifold may look pretty/blingy, but its not suitable for your set up, may be revert to the stock manifold or a proven aftermarket manifold which will work with your set up. 
  10. Head bolts and turbo question

    https://www.slideshare.net/pacovico/motor-5e that's for the 5e, but its what i've used to rebuild both the 4e and 5e engines in the past torque specs are near the back of the document 
  11. autotune emanage ultimate

    its all about optimizing the set up everything takes time to do it properly....will save troubles later on. if your gas quality varies so much, it might be better if you are on the conservative side ignition wise
  12. autotune emanage ultimate

    yeah he should be able to give you tons of guidance. very experienced with these cars
  13. autotune emanage ultimate

    from past reports, this feature did not work for members, they ended up having to tune emu from scratch basically---i've only recall one member that said they got it to work, but i cant remember who it was at this moment do you have a wide-band connected to the emu?---i suppose this is a prerequisite for autotune to work?!
  14. changing steering rack boot

    can the steering rack boot on our cars be changed using that "bag & grease" approach to cover the tie rod  end and then slide the new boot over the bag?---basically not removing the tie rod end and needing to get a wheel alignment afterwards. like in that vid
  15. TOP END REBUILD!

    sounds that way