nikhilkamdar12

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Cheers bud bump

Good bit of kit buddy, instead of running wasted spark doesn't the ECU support full sequential fuel and ignition of the stock triggers?

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Okay I thought in the back of my mid this might happen! New head gasket it is then. My block and head were both skimmed also but while the head is off i'll see if it's all still straight otherwise i'll get it skimmed. Thanks for the info guys

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Yeah I was thinking this before as currently I have zero leaks and would like to kept it that way. Understand what your saying here. But even to take the first bolt out you never take it out fully you would realise it slightly following the pattern for unbolt? So you don't warp the head? If anyone else who's done this before could let me know the best way? And the one above?

Item For Sale: Brand new 4E/5E Injector Dynamics ID1000cc bought from TD and not needed any more. Perfect for a 350hp+ build Item Condition & Description: Item is brand new and from Tuning Developments, didn't end up running these myself due to going for a different turbo setup Product description from Injector Dynamics themselves, please have a look at this... http://injectordynamics.com/injectors/id1000/ Supplied with all the new clips and weather seals so just have to wire onto your current loom - 2 wires! TD lanyard & car freshener and x2 injector Dynamic stickers. Pri

Cool sounds good I'll be doing that then

Hi all, I currently have forged motor etc... but stock head bolts and looking to go different turbo and over 300hp. I currently have an Athena 1.2mm head gasket also. Now can I just unbolt the original stock head bolts and wack the new uprated ARP ones in, or do I have to remove the entire head as the headgasket has been crushed and replace for a new one? Thanks Nikhil

One up for this we need some better aesthetically pleasing calipers for the rear A bracket for some kind of Wilwood, AP Racing or similar caliper with integrated handbrake lever for cable, of course one that keeps the factory bias and all that good stuff.

I asked Toyota one time if they could carry any work out on my Glanza but they said as it's an import they won't touch it! Don't know if anyone else has found the same?

Hi mate, I have one in Super White 2. Paint is in good condition will just need clay barring and seal to bring it up to scratch. In Borehamwood, Herts, London. PM me if interested bro.

Hi guys, In need of a good condition standard Galnza passenger seatbelt. Does anyone have one lying around? Thanks Nikhil

I wouldn't say this personally, I have a SPEC 6 and had zero problems with it. It likes to judder a bit if you don't give it enough pulling away but other than that its brilliant. I think you may have a bigger underlying issue if your engine/gearbox is eating up clutches and you're on your second one! I don't believe you could of had 2 faulty clutches in a row, plausible but not likely!

I found this also! I bought a RRFPR thinking they are some decent brand, gave it a quick eBay search or just google it and the same one appeared for £15! And I paid around £60 for it! Hmmm Mine just came in a plain white box.

Looks mint mate.....now drop a 4EFTE in it ;)

I have this on my daily Civic at the moment, i'm pretty sure its the clutch release bearing and not the input shaft bearing!

Damnn guys really wanted a set of these! So apart from the K Sport kit which I think is way to big and probably won't fit under my 15's anyways, what other options do I have? Willwood? I can get the calipers easy enough but what about all the mounting brackets for the Glazna etc...anybody sell these or do I have to get these made up? These guys have so much potential business and down to a bad supplier it looks like! They need to sort it out.

Any response back from Keri?? Need a big brake kit ordered??

Standalone ECU that supports COP and that can drive them (preferably one with igniters built in I.e. K20 coils. (Saves the expense of using an external ignition amplifier). There's 2 ways to implement it really regarding trigger pickup for the crank... 1) you get a 36-1 trigger wheel mounted and balanced to your crank pulley with a bracket made up for the sensor. In my case I have a VR sensor (Variable Reluctor) I wish now though I went for a hall sensor for the pickup. This is because I'm having difficulty starting the motor and takes a few times to crank before starting and I think it's do