Ollieh17

One of the big ones does have the same effect. Used to remove it on my glanza can't remember which one though

if you look by the rear view mirror there should be a black sort of screen which is the receiver (been a while). Im not sure they all had it tbh, I bought a fob for mine but it was really shit. By the time you are close enough for it to work you may as well have used the key

Bump

I'd go for a 50w

tein do a electronic dampening control setup

Engine Tuner in Plymouth

Piggybacks have been proven to work well on td04 setups(has another thread up) and think they are plenty for a standard engine. The benefit of a DET3 is you can use it as a standalone fuel controller so are open to alot more injectors etc. Benefits in that sense of a standalone without all the dyno time setting ignition for idle etc on a standalone

ME221 is the best option but depends what your budget is. they are around £600 I think compared to £160 ish for det 3, 200ish for emanage. Wouldnt take a tuner long to wire either in

Don't have to have the map sensor. Det 3 has built in 4bar map sensor just needs a wiring loom made up which isnt too hard. Someone on here will be able to help out

Don't have to have the map sensor. Det 3 has built in 4bar map sensor just needs a wiring loom made up which isnt too hard. Someone on here will be able to help out

another good option is the ME221

it is yes, but then not really in the same price range/ type of ECU

Id recommend buying a tial or turbosmart wastegate brand new. Too many fakes around, especially on here and facebook

• four 16x16 side tables (fuel map,two PWM tables, ignition table),

• 8 Correctiontables 16x1,
• 2 independent switchable map sets ,
• possibility modification of one analogue signal,
• 4 analogueinputs,
• inbuilt Data Flash – possibility of logging without connected PC,
• battery voltage monitoring ,
• support of frequency output air flow meter (possibility of signal modification) 17Hz-4kHz,
• support VR and Hall effect crank sensors together with ignition modules pulse. Device supportbothsingle ended and differential signals,
• supports a lot of crank trigger patterns :60-2, 36-2, 36-1, Multitooth, Ignition Modules and more,
• support of waste gate valve,
• output for 4 saturated injectors ("full group"),
• ON/OFF parametricoutput,
• automatic conversion of MAP to MAF with the use of the learning algorithm,
• launch control,
• road dyno,
• possibility individual calibration of each analogue sensors – device displayed values with correct units,
• free firmware update – new crank trigger patterns and new functionality,
• fuel Implant mode –possibility of drive injectors in standalone mode (batch fire),
• USB communication no additional interface needed,
• 24 months warranty.

Sell it and buy a det3 ecu

Yet they still sell...

Illiterate jerks buy them, have you seen some of the language used in here lol?

Lads the car is 26 years old, it ant going to be showroom condition but yes alot off money 3,988.06EUR.

Sure everyone understands that tbh. But that car is not even average condition

it is over prixed it looks like a dog people seem to think starlets are going like r5,s lol they aren't that will fetch about 1800 /2200 on auction needs a fair bit of money spent on it that car to bring it back to its formar glory

does make me laugh, the whole 'more that get broken the more they go up in valley', they are everywhere starlet on every street corner these days lol

Worst part is the body.... the most expensive thing to get sorted then really. Seems over priced to me

Agree, don't think people realise the work in putting new sills on. Rust normally goes deeper than it looks too

Pointless doing alot of welding on these when so many shells just get scrapped.

Still for sale?

from your other thread, guessing you are after a sideexit? Far as i can tell this is a downpipe going to the rear of the car

Yes I got braided all through the car, the inner pipe is PTFE is this same pipe your talking about?

Comments welcome

Mick

Cheers buddy

yeh mate, read a couple of different views but decided to stick with hardlines as hate a spongy pedal. Ideally for the best brake pedal you should use as much hard line as possible, only using flexi hose on the joints where it needs movements due to suspension travel

are you running braided line brake line from master cylinder all the way to calipers? I recently had to make up brake lines for my car and after research went with hard pipe over braided. Braided still has some degree of expansion, someone worked out it could cause as much as 2cm extra travel on the pedal. Might not sound a lot but would make it feel some what more spongy.

Not sure if you use the car on the road either but im sure the use of those fittings is iffy come MOT

Don't see how that is a future investment tbh. Hardly a desirable car, just got low mileage

4 paw, probably pretty easy, if willing to launch. But any fwd car would struggle. Even modern ones with more power and technology struggle