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Ollieh17

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Everything posted by Ollieh17

  1. Ollieh17
    Just wired up my aem wideband, and stays lit up after keys taken out and no power. Shows '111' and '222'
  2. Ollieh17
    You can buy them on camskill for around £30 too
  3. Ollieh17
    My screws to my old coil had threaded so removed the whole mount from the bulkhead. New coil is cable tied to the strut brace and had no issues since
  4. Ollieh17
    I had this problem, plastic coating on the wire to the coil had frayed and was earthing so taped it up and issue went away for a while. Started doing it again and replaced the coil.been fine since. And currently not mounted to the bulkhead
  5. Ollieh17
    Anyone?
  6. Ollieh17
    I started doing my headlights and made them worse! 2000 grit was the softest i used though?
  7. Ollieh17
    After the fog light holders to modify (or try) for a aftermarket bumper. They may have to be cut out i cant remember.
  8. Ollieh17
    Will the non abs bearings fit a abs hub? I have read the only difference i a seal to suit the abs sensor?Have found the bearings for £12 each as opposed to the £40 on camskill and elsewhere
  9. Ollieh17
    I just bought a universal toyota kit off ebay.came with two boots and the fitting cone for like £8
  10. Ollieh17
    Tdo5 postef *td04 posted
  11. Ollieh17
    £250 for td04 kit?;)
  12. Ollieh17

    Glanza abs hubs

    Ollieh17 posted a topic in Wanted

    After a set with good bearings, as cheaper and more convient then getting new bearings fitted
  13. Ollieh17
    Agreed, i had to buy a deep one from halfords. Also in my case it required a big breaker bar and alot of effort
  14. Ollieh17
    I found it much easier to just undo the 19mm bolts on the strut and twist the hub. You don't have to take the strut off or anything. Much easier to take the whole thing out, then use a cv boot tool to get the boot over the shaft without taking the whole thing apart.
  15. Ollieh17
    Point being? You don't have to take it off.
  16. Ollieh17
    Its not really a circlip as such, its pretty much a metal ring on the gearbox shaft end that holds it in.
  17. Ollieh17
    I just used a crowbar on the shaft and a persuasive tap with a hammer. Just have to pop the circlip out the box. Same putting them back in
  18. Ollieh17
    .
  19. Ollieh17
    No worries, bear in mind if you take the shafts fully out you may want to drain the box first. Oil will pour out
  20. Ollieh17
    Does seem to go when turning!. Thought it may be unbalanced wheels as cant remember the issue on my Old wheels
  21. Ollieh17
    Jack car up and take the wheel off. Use a breaker bar to remove the centre nut on the driveshaft, you'll need a 30mm socket(will have to remove the pin first'. Then undo the two bolts holding hub to strut and should be able to lever the driveshaft out by pulling the hub away. Then use a crowbar or or similar to tap the shaft out the gearbox. When the shaft is off you can buy a kit with a cone that allows you to but a boot on without removing cv joints. Then repeat
  22. Ollieh17
    ..
  23. Ollieh17
    Okay to chop the wiring off too?
  24. Ollieh17
    Can i take both these sensors off?
  25. Ollieh17
    Your gettig wastegates and dumpvalves confused. Wastegate controls boost by 'venting exhaust gas' dumpvalve releases pressure when closing the throttle
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