ToyotaTech15

To explain the Economy mode a little more, the a/c compressor on the engine has a two stage control system. Usually the compressor runs at full capacity until the evaporators frost limit temperature is reached. As a result, if the heat load is low cooling will be excessive and a lot of power will be taken away from the engine. The economy system lowers the compressors utilization rate, when the a/c switch is set to ECON, the compressor is turned off when the evaporator fin temperature reaches 10 degrees C rather than the normal 3 degrees C. Thus saving the power that the compressor would nor

I'll take one rob, Cheers Gary

Heres my pictures, There is a few that didnt come out good because of the sun and the fact that the camera is shit. Starting from on the way down I didnt take this one. Gary

I measured one but I couldn't find the post again. I could do it again unless Kennedy gets a chance before me Gary

What exacty do you need mate? Is it ecu pin plugs and wire colours? If you are more specific ill see what i have Gary

Rota grid or sliptream would be a good option IMO, I am going with slipsteams for my track build. 15's will be a fair bit lighter then your 16's I couldn't believe how light the rotas were when I bought them. Could pick all four boxes up at once lol Gary

My first wheel choice was rota grids, rota have a lightweight range which around 6kg if I remember correctly. They don't break the bank either, £300 for 4 brand new I got mines for and that was 3 years ago. Some people say rotas are crap and weak but I thought mines were ok with no real problems. Gary

Forgot about the sump part you mentioned Geo. Car will be great fun when it's converted! Gary

Not really much to look out for, a pretty straight forward swap to be honest, the chances are you wont have any manifold support brackets or braces that match unless you got the ones off the old car, if not it doesnt matter, i ran my old n/a with a corolla manifold and no support brackets. You might also need to make a new support for the throttle cable, depends what comes on the manifold, Only thing i would look out for is the 4 pipes going into the bottom of the throttle body, if you are changing that then just take time to out them on the correct ports again. As for the decat, it may gi

Never heard of a problem with sump clearance? do you mean clearance with the ground or with another part of the car? Not done a 5e EP*5 yet, im in the process of building one, not much differnce to be honest just a slightly longer block, but i ahvent thought of any probems i will come across yet Gary

The cooling fan cant really be determined by time, its worked by temperature . If the temp gauge is about half way (around 80-90 degrees) it will cut on and off if the vehicle is stationary. If it isnt cutting in and out once this temp has been reached for a good while then the fan circuit may need inspected. Gary

Hi mate, To convert an EP*5 to turbo isnt that big of a job tbh, If you are using your glanza as a donor car it will be easier to go with an EP95, you will need the glanza dash and engine loom as well as engine. but keep the EP95 gearbox and transfer box. The dash board will need removed to change the loom, may be easier with a front exit exhaust also as you will need a custom one if you want to route it along side the propshaft. Hope this helps Gary

Hi mate, With regards to the engine and transmission removal, its just the same as a normal FWDthe only difference is you have the propshaft to disconnect. When i have removed EP*5 engines i leave the gearbox and transfer box all connected together and drop them out the bottom together. just remove the 4 nuts on the prop shaft to the transfer box and leave the prop bolted to the car, when you disconnect the rear engine mount the engine and box will tilt fowards slightly giving you more room and the propshaft. Relatively simple once you get cracking. Any more questions you know where i am.

bump for anyone who hasnt seen this yet Gary

Here at GBR Motorsport customer satisfaction is our No.1 priority and we aim to keep all customers happy from start to finish, Also all customer vehicles will not leave until our workshop staff are 100% happy with all work that has been carried out. We are now happy to offer a full 4 wheel laser alignment check as an option after having any manor of suspension work done (major or minor) so that each customer will leave knowing that all systems on there vehicle are working as they should. However if you would just like an alignment check to put your mind at ease then dont hesitate to contact

New Additions to workshop services. We are now offering full 4-wheel laser alignment to all customers. First post has been updated Thanks Gary GBR Motorsport

Lol ill be sure to tell her that Yeh a few people at work said it was a good film, ive never seen the original so nothing to compare it to. Go and see toy story mate. 3D glasses FTW!! lol Gary

Wanted to go see this but the other half didnt fancy it so we settled for Toy Story 3 3D Was actually good aswell. Will probs go next week and see this thou Gary

When changing to fte the loom and engine will run a distributor , so the wiring you will be changing to will have the correct connectors for running a distributor. Gary

Sunday the 15th august mate. @ bigman, think we will be booking a hotel for the first night as it was mad sleeping in the car last time lol. Gary

So far I know that we have two cars heading down geo leanne and bigman in one car and me and sam (other half) in another, any else from Scotland going? If so we can organise a meeting place etc as I'll be leaving from Dundee to meet up with geo at Edinburgh area Gary

Depends on the condition of your bores, I'm pressuming your mechanic will be using a machine shop to rebore and hone the block. If so you will need 74.5mm pistons and 4e rods. You are better with an uprated gasket also, I've heard good bits about these cometic head gaskets but never ran one. Anymore questions just ask Gary

Could be fuel cut you are hitting, what boost is it running at? What mods do you have to engine also do you have a boost gauge? Gary

It could be your release bearing, I have had it alot, the sleeve that the release bearing slides on just dries out causing a squeek, unfortunately that means gearbox out to stop it squeeking Gary

Done mines at the same time as matt, @ glanza gee, it was at nottigham training centre mate Gary