Stu

Well had this thing out earlier this month and gave it a good thrashing at the track and it ran faultlessly and Im super happy. It was a pretty hot day and unfortunately the track was quite slippery so I wasn't able to get a good time in but was super happy with how it ran. I was running full interior and full exhaust for the day and didn't use boost per gear or launch control as I ran out of time to configure it all. But it was still a great day with friends and netted a best time of the day of 12.5 on a 2.8 60ft @ 120mph - yes it was that bad off the line. I tried all sorts of different launch rpm and even went back to launching in 1st which I don't normally do. Best 60ft I ran was 2.19 and that was after a big 2nd/3rd gear burnout to get the tires super hot. I think I need to get more savage on the burnout to get the tires really hot, then also give them a quick scuff before staging. Ive been too pussy on the burnouts as I'm worried about drive train but it seems to be holding so may as well try next time. I was looking back at the notes on the setup when I ran the 11.8@121mph and I was running the side pipe and it was a night event. I've got an idea the exhaust is a slightly restriction so I think the next step will be to finally build a 3 inch exhaust as its currently running 2.5inch with a muffler and reso. Ive also got a new turbo on order so that should wake it up a bit, plus im piecing together a 8.9:1 bottom end as this one is 8.0:1 so a little lazy. I'm going for a good responsive package rather than outright power. Anyway, here's some photos:

The ign switch wire popped out of the alternator plug so it wasn't charging properly, all sorted now. This thing eats alternators for some reason.

Cheers mate! Yeah I'll post more data after this weekends event. Im using a customised C56 - its got some hybrid parts in it and a few custom machined bits and pieces.

Ah right, I forgot about those ones. I'd just check out that exhaust housing size compared to the old unit.

I part own a dyno now so will eventually get it strapped down and figure out what the power and torque curves look like. Starting to get a bit nervous about drive train holding up.

Is that from a 2jz? Some of those variants have a larger AR exhaust housing so will be very laggy, might pay to compare against the stock unit.

Because everyone loves data... Theres more fuel to pull out and a bit more boost to go. Runs out of gears relatively easily now.

Might pay to cc those chambers and work out the difference in compression. The stock turbo is quite low compression anyway so alittle bump up would be good, just not too much.

I made it all years ago, its seemed to have helped hold the front end together.

Thanks!! Sorry not much more than the photos already posted. The bars run from the firewall to top plats on the struts that the strut brace is bracketed off, then the bars continue forward and down to the chassis rail where there are crush tubes through the rail to another brace that runs forward and along behind the factory lower front chassis.

Was having a clear out at home and found these old gems

Oh totally agree its possible, couple of examples ive had a 4g63 with 1800cc injectors and a barra with 2200cc injectors both idle like a kitten with a link ecu. Just stating that 1000cc will support way more power than any 5e will make so its a bit overkill. Injectors are alot cheaper these days so easy option to go big I guess but theres no major need.

Yeah not quite that simple unfortunately, the adjustable stop is there but its not a common thread size and crawling around under there just sucks

1000cc is huge, I wouldn't think you'd get to even 50% duty cycle. A good ecu will control them well enough for idle and cruise but make sure you get the injector deadtime data etc correct.

Yeah Im planning on getting to the annual Oldschool.co.nz day in December. The car is pretty much ready, just need to swap on the slicks and do a few small things. I havent tested boost per gear yet. Goal last weekend was to get peak power dialled in and then setting tables for lower boost is easy. Im going to wire up launch control off the handbrake this time too and see how that works. Ideally need to setup a clutch switch but its a job ive been avoiding.

Convention is to fit ballast resistors to the power side of the circuit, not the injector drive side. It will work both ways but all the literature ive seen says to fit them to the 12v feed. Im assuming you will be using something like a 25w 4R7 resistor for each injector, so find intercept the main power feed and then split it via a ballast resistor to each injector. ie 12v feed > split into 4 > ballast resistor each > injector. Are you attempting to fit larger injectors to a factory ecu?

Well, this thing has been in hibernation over winter. I did drive it once to make sure it still ran, then left it till last week when I hauled it out of hiding, threw a new battery and some spark plugs and it and it fired into life. Did a couple of small maintenance jobs like putting a new radiator cap on it and tidying up the battery bracket. I dropped the fuel tank and swapped in a new Aeromotive Stealth fuel pump in place of the extremely noisy 044. So so much quieter now and on paper its a better pump. Big change was finally swapping on the modified Turbo S bonnet that has the scoop removed. My brother organised for it to get painted for me and I'm stoked at how it looks. Its also had a clean inside and out and Ive fixed up a couple of bits of trim that were coming loose. Its currently got the full interior and im pretty happy with how its looking inside. I haven't really touched the tune on this thing since taking the head off and fitting the TRD valve springs and arp head studs well over a year ago. At the time I was under pressure to get the car going for the Oldschool.co.nz drags so once it was back together all I managed to do was disable the boost control and it ran 6-7psi. I also pulled about 6 degrees of timing out of the ignition map on boost so it has been pretty conservative since then. So yesterday with the help of Kris, we road tuned the thing back up to 18psi and threw some more timing at it. The change is dramatic and its a total handful again. Its made me also consider changing back to the taller gearset at it just runs out of gears so quickly now. Cannot wait to get this to the track.

Possibly. You'd have to take any blanks of any un-used switch positions and see if there are unused plugs behind, then check connectivity from there to the plug to the seats. You may find that there are relays to supply the seats via a switch. Start tracing and you'll find it.

Very cool! Ive seen the speakers but never the heated seats.

They came factory fitted with a ct12, but the ct9 is a slightly better turbo. They respond well to mods, just don't over rev them as the rockers break. Decent flow turbo manifold will take it up a fair amount. They will take quite a bit of boost but the tune needs to be good.

I think you will find they are not heated seats, but instead they are speakers. One of the many EP71's Ive owned had them fitted - they gave a bit of extra sound but it was more the vibration/bass than actual noise.

Yep, just split the power wiring like I mentioned and you will be fine.

Find the fault?

I'm assuming your using an aftermarket ecu to run them? But wiring wise its pretty easy, conventionally the ballast resistors need to be wired into the power side but they can go into the drive side if need be. So 12v supply > ballast resistors > injectors < injector drives from ecu. They look like 50w 4r7's, just split the injectors into pairs so power > ballast #1 > injector 1&2, and ballast #2 > injector 3&4.

There are two earth wiring arrays in most 4e/5e looms. One is for power grounds which supplies to things the ecu switches (injectors, idle ups etc) and is common to chassis ground, its the E1 pin on the ecu from memory. There is also a sensor earth array that runs to the map sensor, water temp sensor, IAT, knock sensor shield, TPS, and narrow band sensor shield, from memory its in E21 on the ecu. The sensor earth array doesn't connect to the chassis ground and the two should be kept seperate. The ecu supplies the earth to the sensors and filters out electrical noise which is why the two are not connected together. Its very hard to work out what effect the AIT sensor has on a factory ecu as you can't plug a laptop in and see the tables, but its my theory that at higher air temps it pulls some timing out to avoid detonation, and it doesn't effect the fueling map all that much - maybe a small % trim if anything. Thats generally how an AIT sensor is utilised in an aftermarket ecu. The sensor that can make a huge difference to fuel economy is the water temp sensor so I'd be checking that first. You can dump it in a pot of water on the stove and work out that the resistance is changing as water temp increases from cold to hot, it should be relatively linear output - you may actually be able to find that data if you google it. Anyway, if the ecu thinks the engine is cold all the time then it will be dumping a metric shit ton of fuel and there goes your mileage. Often with these sort of things its a combination of a couple of different faults that all compound to causing a significant change in tune, and often the ecu just thinks the engine is at idle/cold for example so wont throw a code. So id check that water temp sensor for starters and its wiring back to the ecu - although if there was an issue with the wiring the ecu would show a code and in my experience with 4e/5e's its also causes very hard starting. Id also double check the TPS is outputting idle and WOT to the ecu. Plus check the map sensor is outputting the a variance and is plumbed right. Good luck.