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No photos sorry - close thread now Short version: Went racing, no tune changes, eventually ran some 11.9's Detail version: As usual I left it to the last minute but on Friday morning I raised the car the 65mm or so needed to refit the slicks and took it racing that night (evening meet). Due to someone wanting to jump of an overbridge the traffic on the motorway to the track was retarded so after 3 hours of stop start traffic I wasn't really feeling it. First couple of runs were crap too. In the first I missed third gear and ran a 13.1 or something with a good portion of that time t

To get the most out of them you really need to run an aftermarket ecu and tune in alphaN (TPS mode). By playing with different intake lengths ie distance from back of valve to butterfly to end of trumpet you can shift the power band around abit. Much trickier science thats for sure. Helmholtz intake resonance is a good topic to read up on

Toyota Fest 2017. Lowered the car down to street height and did some laps!

More than likely the wiring is damaged.

Boost controllers draw very little current so won't be an issue. Thick wire is usually best as it's got more current carrying capacity and they are usually miles away from reaching the max

And yes stock ecu will be hurting it. Will pay to check those air fuel ratios too. I'd be surprised if a factory ecu keeps up with that turbo. Let me have a look at some data once the atom is on. Might be able to help with the timing side as I've got literally stacks of Link tunes for 4es and 5es - plus others.

Ah yeah that will be why. .63 especially in the T3 frame will be very laggy. Ideally t25 housing would help but try find a smaller ratio t3 or even mill out an old LD20 T3 .30 housing to suit your rear wheel.

What size exhaust housing are you using Karl? It is a larger AR it will be laggy. You can drop down to a smaller housing which will make quite a difference for lag. Also how much timing are you running as it comes on boost? Screen dump your ignition table if you can.

Cigarette lighter circuit is fine for what you need.

It's the pin/wire on the ecu that operates the check engine light. Look at an ecu pin out diagram.

I said above what the pins are. Depending on what ecu you have and it's capability you can either wire wasted spark (one output to coil 1&4 other to 3&4) or sequentially (one ignition output to each coil). Sequential wiring just make sure output #1 goes to cylinder #1, #2 to #2 etc, and bit to firing order. It's not possible with the stock ecu.

I said above what the pins are. Depending on what ecu you have and it's capability you can either wire wasted spark (one output to coil 1&4 other to 3&4) or sequentially (one ignition output to each coil). Sequential wiring just make sure output #1 goes to cylinder #1, #2 to #2 etc, and bit to firing order. It's not possible with the stock ecu.

What I'm angling at is that the ecu is powering up. Check engine light or if the fuel pump turns on when it's cranking are good tell tale signs. Throw a multimeter into the W pin and check it to 12v. Key ON that should show up.

Silly question but the check engine light comes on when you turn the key to ON? Do you hear the fuel pump run when the engine is cranking?

Fairly straight forward to do. Left to right looking at the coil connector (not the plug on the loom) the wires are ground (head/inlet), trigger from ecu, not used, 12v supply. Depending on your ecu wire then sequentially or wasted spark. Getting the tacho to work can be a bit tricky - I just change the primary resistor on the tacho PCB inside the cluster and then run it of a low level drive from the ecu (usually Links for just about all of my customers). It kinda depends on how good your ecu is.

Your better off using an output not a trigger input. Any back feed or electrical interference on the NE 24tooth trigger with cause the ecu to no have a clean triggering signal. I'd be using IGT instead where possible.

Got a brief mention in the lastest NZ Performance Car magazine as part of the 2017 4&Rotary Nationals coverage - pretty cool!

Thanks! Yeah the suspension setup needs work. Haven't really done anything to it since getting into the high 12s. Need to jack the rear up somehow

Update from Friday nights meet at Meremere Dragway here in NZ. Bit more timing now and a new PB 11.85@119mph 1/4 mile 2.112 60ft. 7.755@96.16mph 1/8 mile Hoosier 225/50/15. EP71 4AGE @ 17.4psi. BP 98 octane pump gas. >https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hPcrdI4MYro Last meet is on the 17th - need to brave up and throw some decent boost at it

Thanks guys! During last week I changed out the intercooler as it had been in the car for 14+ years and had a few hits and dings plus the replacement one I had is 15-20mm thicker so thought bigger is better. Got the car back to street spec (side pipe out, exhaust in etc) and during the day on Friday with the help of a mate of mine Kris we got the tune wound up a bit more. Running some good timing now and the boost is up to about 17.5 - 18psi. Definitely sketchy to drive on the street, third gear hazes the wheels so had to do some ultra sketchy 4th gear data logs. After that I swapped o

Quick update from last night's race meet, ran a new PB of 11.85@119mph. Still can't better a 2.0 60ft but very happy with how it ran. Didn't miss a beat!

Was just asking out of interest so don't get your tits in a twist. If it's just for drag then you may be better going up to the gt30 frame as you say. Plenty of housing options around. Good long merge into the housing will help get it on song. Good luck

What compression ratio and cams are you going to use?

The vbands to suit the housings are proprietary from Garrett so you need to buy theirs - have been down this road... sucks a bit PS: Yes, the .72 will be peaky, Id go for the .58 instead.