Stu

Im a big fan of Siemens injectors - very good spray pattern/misting. 865's are a good size and should have enough capacity for what your trying to achieve. Your probably starting to get to the limit of the standard fuel lines with that sort of power.

Its probably just an open diff. They don't always spin the opposite wheel when rotating by hand.

At the ecu, put a paper clip between TE and E1 then wire a LED between W and ground. This will give you your diagnostic codes. My money is on temp sensor wiring being wrong - maybe sensor earths joined into main earth array by mistake?

Anytime

Ive setup quite a number of customers car with these over the years mainly using the 2zzge coils. Just weld some lugs to the cover and its done.

Either way it's better than an open haha Check out the image here of the helical which looks different to me. Did you take a photo of the crown wheel end? https://monkeywrenchracing.com/product/trdtoyota-helical-lsd-lotustoyota-c5x-c6x/

What times are you running akaye4000?

Im pretty sure its clutch pack style not Helical. I'm currently running a TRD helical unit and it looks different to that one. In my experience the clutch style ones work better if setup properly.

Looks great!

Its a TRD unit, possibly the earlier style but hard to tell without it being pulled apart further. The current model Cusco have oval sections in the side and those are more square. Here's the ones from my car, new Cusco RS left, TRD old style right

Can't just massage the back of the seat? It wont be seen under the carpet?

I'm unsure of the power output as I road/track tune and haven't been on the dyno yet, but my current gearbox has lasted 3 seasons of drag racing and a couple of circuit events (and some road driving) without any issues so far. Using 2nd gear to launch I'm consistently running 11.8 to 11.9 @ 120 to 121mph quarter mile times on 2.0-2.2 60fts. I currently use Redline lightweight shockproof oil but will likely swap to Penrite for next season. As per Socks comment, in third gear on street rubber it will haze the wheels as power comes on and chirp the wheels in 4th. The sudden load/unload/load w

First of the off season jobs is done. The car originally had the orange face Si dash cluster then I went through a period of not liking all the orange so swapped it for the white face unit that lights up green at night. Have now gone full circle and back to orange but this time the Turbo S cluster. I had to pull it apart to change the K's to match the car and also do the tacho mod so that it runs off my ecu. Will post up a vid of the key on tacho sweep at some stage. The clusters all in bits The collection (have got a couple more somewhere) As the car originally ran the stan

If you put the ecu into diagnostic mode you will like find an error for the ECT sensor

Morgey, ah that makes more sense. Can't just swap in a Glanza cluster? Mashing the tacho needle against the bottom is awesome by the way - gives passengers a scare.

Why wont the standard dash tacho work? Shouldn't be hard to hook it up?

The floor has all sorts of contours so that's why its easier to just use a patch from another shell unless your a metal forming ninja

Ive run it off and on for years - trick is to get the antilag settings spot on in your tune. It is hard on gear but I havent had any failures because of it... yet. PS cyclic idle cool down sounds cool.

Its not the most fun job If your dropping the tank out why not check out the wreckers and cut a section of floor that sits above the pump. Then cut a say 200mm dia hole in your original floor and make a 250mm dia patch from the donor floor. Few rivnuts and fixings and you wont ever have to remove the tank again.

Yeap, many years ago now. Havent found a need to cage it yet but will probably eventually end up building one.

I'm definitely a stand alone advocate and prefer them over a stock ecu. Thats even on a stock engine setup purely for the ability to fine tune and get the most out of any setup plus the huge array of features that can be wired in. I prefer Link ecu's over just about everything except for the M1 series Motec. It takes time to tune any aftermarket ecu but once tuned correctly there is absolutely no reason why a car shouldn't start/idle/cruise exactly the same as on a stock ecu if not better.

Im a Link ecu guy although have wired and tuned just about everything. All comes down to who is tuning it and what they are comfortable with - but saying that any its not difficult to adapt to different ecu's tuning software.

Ive made up braces that run from the firewall (where a cage will eventually join) to the strut towers, then down to the chassis leg where its bolted with crush tubes through to another brace underneath that spans between the chassis legs. Few photos in my thread of the engine bay will show them.