Stu

That's a square wave output from the red switch inside the gauge cluster. The output is not super clean (I've data logged it before) but might work :)

You can used a delay timed relay - fairly easy. Which PS unit are you using? Most seem to have a speed input so that they vary the amount of assist so you don't lose road feel

I'm in Auckland

Same deal, just look at pin ID's not pin locations.

Hopefully you can get your refund. Definitely look at a Link though, just wire it into the factory harness piggy backing the factory ecu so it runs everything but the factory ecu keeps the auto shifting etc.

Add turbo

Haha yeah he loves it I got it from a company called Robinson Instruments. The factory output sensor output isnt that clean, it jumps around enough at low/mid speeds that I wasn't confident it would give me a good enough signal to base the boost tables on, Ive got a datalog of it somewhere. The new sensor is amazing by comparison and Ive now got gear identification setup and am just starting to muck around with boost per gear and boost per speed overlay tables.

Just ask on the NZSC facebook page dude, there was a couple that came up recently. I

I haven't really touched this thing since last year except I took my youngest son to playgroup in it last week. So other than driving it a bit I've been working on better ways to control the boost. Looking back at the log for the 11.81@121mph run its pretty obvious that almost zero fucks were given to actually getting off the line nicely. The launch was in 2nd gear and consisted of a rev limit clutch drop with no change in boost setting through the run - the peak boost was 17.3psi. So since the Link I run is pretty powerful I hooked up the speed signal from the factory reed switch

EP82 box will work. Infact almost any C series gearbox from behind an e series engine will work if you get desperate.

Base timing can also greatly effect isle speed. Have you set the distributor to base 10 degrees while in diagnostoc mode?

I use a spare inner cv cup that ive welded a piece of flat bar and a nut to and use a torque wrench on that. I can't remember the actual preload but I found this with a quick google http://www.newcelica.org/forums/showthread.php?t=283040

^Awesome

The factory ecu does run quite rich from standard so you should be ok on the fueling side, at worst fit a 1:1 fuel pressure reg and slightly bump the base fuel pressure to help. From all the setups ive seen with stock ecu and bigger turbo, they all seem to be lean as the boost comes on but quickly richen up. Its not ideal but there's not alot you can do with the stock ecu. Key thing though is monitoring the state of tune (i'd highlight this if I could). A wideband check is absolutely mandatory and definitely use a detset to check for knock. I would probably start at say 6 degrees base

Get something with a good spray pattern - ie Siemens units.

Here's a vid of my wife driving And another quick vid of the day I found which has a couple of launches

So I got reeaaaaally busy with customers builds which left getting the starlet ready to only a few days before the meet I wanted to make it to. The head had a complete overhaul and I fitted some new TRD valve springs I've had for a while, relapped all the valves, checked seats and tolerances etc. Also while the engine was apart I checked the oil pump and the mains etc and everything looks great. After a few very late nights I had the engine complete and fitted with a whole heap of ARP bolts etc. Next I got into building a new gearbox - not that there is anything wrong with the current

Im running 8kg front, 6kg rear but have had customers cars in with 6kg/4kg. You can spec any spring rate you want. I just checked and the current retail price is $1,869.00nzd plus tax from the local agent.

Fortune Auto. Full digressive shocks, amazing road feel and adjustability. By far the best Ive driven on including Bilstein, Koni, BC, D2, Yellowspeed etc etc. Not cheap though.

^this

New bits ready to fit

Have you just fitted it? If so did you check the diff preload?

Nothing too major mate, just some valve springs and arp's etc. New gearbox and LSD as Ive been running helical for a while and hate it.

Here's the aftermath from the above: The garage has a lovely burnt rubber aroma now. I was pulling handfulls of debris out from the wheel arches - woops. Also tried the Turbo S bonnet I have - really like how it sets of the front of the car. Will be painting that as soon as Ive finished smoothing out the patch where the intercooler scoop used to be. Last shot of the engine bay for a while And how it was 3 hours after the burnout

Yeah it has to be as it hooks up really well and wants to move. Engine and box are out now.