Stu

Haha even better then Usually get trade here which is 40% or so off what I paid today but wasn't my usual supplier. You guys seem to get better pricing on most stuff that us (lucky buggers)

That actually seems expensive! I just bought a set for a customers car today, each plug was $7.99nzd so £3.88

What you need to end up with is a larger dia line as the feed from the tank to the engine, and a slightly smaller line as a return to the rear. In my case I swapped in a 2e-efi fuel tank and lines in each of the conversions Ive done so it was all pretty easy. However with a carby setup its slightly more difficult. You have a few options really. Probably the best option is to just swap in an EP82 tank and lines - job done. Another option but not the most ideal is to just fit an external fuel pump into the original carb feed line somewhere near the tank. The down side of this is that

Yeah have a search, 1e/2e carb are pretty much the same in terms of the conversion. Its well worth it, have done it many times over the years to both NA and turbo. Here's a 5efhe conversion in an old EP71 I had

BKR6e's for a stockish setup or BKR7e's for a more serious setup. Remember to periodically read the plugs as an indicator on how its all running (assuming tune is good). Can we sticky a FAQ on this? Its been covered quite a number of times lately.

Haha burn

^ So rad! Wish I had a proper fish eye lens, this grainy shit photo came off my phone

Yeah your right, VSS is from the reed switch in the gauge cluster. I hate to say it but i'm pretty certain the Atom doesn't have the traction control feature. The atoms don't have the more basic motorsport features like antilag/cyclic or launch control so im sure only the higher spec ecus have it. Anyway its not too hard to setup if you can access it, you can chose between a fuel cut or a ignition cut. You can then setup a slip threshold table between the two speed inputs and per gear if you have gear inputs wired in. Im going to be setting this up on a EP91 and a EP82 both using Fury ecu

Shaft angle can play a part in how the torque is applied (especially with an open diff) and effect torque steer. Some angle is fine, as long as you have roughly the same on both. I don't know much about the K series engines but if they have a bearing hanger on the back of the engine then I'd try to use it as it will even out your shaft lengths which also helps with even torque distribution.

Yeah as above, as long as its braided you will be fine. Don't connect the braid to ground at the sensor end though, just connect it to your original braid where it broke off.

Sorry not familar with the TD unit but alot of the common regs (Tomei, Turbosmart etc) use a 1/8NPT fitting and you adapt that to -6 or -8 fittings

Pretty much a sealed unit from memory. Did you try what Richardc9052 said about the throttle body?

Thats looking great! Love the engine bay colour contrast.

I'm using the stock rails/sliders off an original seat (so it bolts in) but then have made up brackets to support the bucket seat. Will try and dig up some photos for you.

So busy lately building the EP82 and EP91 I have here among other things (more on the facebook page if your interested, link in signature), but got some time to make a start on my manifold. Took the old setup off and picked up a head flange I ordered from the laser cutters last week. Cut up some tube and made the merge collector. V-band joiners are so nice to work with, will avoid conventional flanges like the plague from now on Anyway, few photos:

Does your fuel rail have a pulsation dampener where the feed line comes into the rail?

That's pretty small! Very interesting! How was that for top end power as I'd expect it to choke it quite a bit? Probably ok for a 5e though but really depends on the setup and what the use of the car will be. We had a 4a setup on the dyno last year, had just over 19psi on a small housing (can't remember exactly sorry) it made 226kw at the wheels, we swapped to a .68 housing and it made 268kw on 17psi (ran out of fuel) with no other changes so housing size can make a big difference. That's kinda why I bought the .72, to try it out and see what happens but also because it's vband so epic lus

Ive tuned a .86 on a 5e for a customer - quite laggy from memory it did drop off boost between gears if you shifted too early. Saying that though the manifold wasn't one of mine and the merge collector was crap design which doesnt help with spooling a turbo. Dependant on what your after power wise you could run with the .64 or as an intermediate run the vband 0.72 housing. I just got one for my new turbo setup on the 4age.

Check out Fortune Auto too, full digressive shocks, custom valving etc, mine handle better than the previous Bilstein coil overs I ran

Found an image of the nozzle im using - #5 of the long neck versions

All good mate, any time, happy to help

Haha true, does add up. When I win lotto as part of my world tour I'll schedule in a week or so to stop in the UK and build you a setup

Thanks! My machines are pretty dialled now which helps. Some people hate the gas lens nozzles for some reason but I get good results. I've been using a long neck version for manifolds lately, bit tricky for tight stuff but does most of a manifold without any issue. Will take a photo when I'm home

1.6mm Thoriated (Red) tungstens are what I tend to use when making manifolds (mild steel, sch40) and i tend to use a number 5 nozzle with a gas lens. Its gives much more even gas dispersion and I can wind the flow rate right down and still create really nice welds. Like this basically: With aluminium I tend to set the flow rate at 10-15lt/m dependant on the type of job/position being used. I made up some ali fuel tanks for a launch a month or so back and got it pretty dialled in using again a number 5 nozzle and gas lense but with a 2.4mm Zirconiated (White) tungstens. C

What you need to do it unbolt the exhaust from the headers, remove the headers, throw all that away then add one of these You can thank me later