Stu

^this, and check that how much static pressure there is holding the wastegate flap closed. If the flap is open a touch then it will take much longer to come on boost.

If you find a rear adjustable tie rod from a AE92/101/111 then you can chop and weld it into the centre of the EP71 bar then you have an adjustable panhard. Again take a look at my build, there should be photos.

Sorry yes your right, its a TRD unit (was looking on my phone and my old eyes were struggling to make it out). The TRD unit is still very good. If you have a torque wrench, work out the breakaway torque and let me know what it is. Will be an indication of how savage the ramp rate on lock up is.

Oh its definitely a good thing!!! Super good score. Take a look at my build thread in the EP71 section and there's comparison photos of the two lsd units.

Looks like a cusco LSD - good score!

Hey Del, its been a while, hows things? Definitely getting on top of it now and pretty motivated to get more tuning done. Have just picked up some TRD valve springs so will fit those soon. Yeah I keep the JBP Facebook page updated reasonably regularly - Link to it is below in my signature. About to do a post on the ae86 im currently working on - awesome car.

The stock cast ones are rubbish for flow - take a look at the #3 runner and you will see what I mean.

Looks great! Man I want a mid spoiler for mine

Going by the photos its a clutch type LSD and as it has the internal cage it is probably a TRD unit although I have heard there are a number of LSD units made in the same factory and labeled as different brands. The cusco unit doesnt have the internal cage so the clutch plates are larger among other differences. This is a TRD clutch type LSD with the older design ramps This is a Cusco RS clutch type LSD. There's probably more photos in my build thread. And to confuse things there's also a TRD Helical unit like im currently running... EDIT: Actually here's a photo of both

^ Thats the way, no need for different triggering. All the aftermarket ecus Ive wired into 4e/5e/4a/3s/1j etc (quite a number of them too) use stock triggering. Only ever had one issue which was unfortunately with my own 4a where I had a high rpm miss, which turned out to be rusty trigger pick ups.

C52 is stronger than a C150.

You have a couple of options. Easiest is to just swap in the EP82 efi tank and lines as the tank has the pump carrier and internal swirl pot, and the lines have the return and are the right size. Other option is if you really have to you can run an external pump inline from the stock pickup but usually the carb tanks don't have an internal swirl pot so make sure you run it with plenty of fuel in the tank to avoid surge. You'll need to install a efi fuel filter (NOT carb fuel filter) and a return line too. Which is why its easier just to bolt in the ep82 stuff.

Cool! Just remember you will need to run the tacho from the ecu Good luck and post photos up when done.

2zzge or K20 coils work well. There's two versions of the 2zz coils, identical except for one has a slightly larger diameter tube that needs to be machined/files down to fit inside the tube. What ecu are you using?

Just use the standard triggering from the distributor if your ecu will allow. More than adequate in my experience. As above really depends on your setup but in most applications bkr7e would do. Just gap to say .8mm for starters.

Last Friday was the final round of the drag wars at Meremere so I took the 4agte down for the last runs of the season. Since the last event I finally solved the slight miss/hesitation at high load which turned out to be a caused by the Magnacor spark leads. The 20v head runs leads with a boot that slides down inside the head (same deal as 4e/5e's) and I realised that one of the terminals inside the lead was actually 6-7mm away from the top of the spark plug terminal so all this time its arcing across to the plug. Magnacor are making a new lead but in the mean time I jammed a normal non-booted 8mm eagle lead down onto the spark plug. I also got VVT working again by changing the switching conditions in the tune. The vvt advances the inlet cam about 30 degrees which makes a massive difference to power delivery but this meant I had to step back to a tune from last year when the vvt was actually working as the current tune would probably be running too much timing with the additional cam advance. With Kris's help I did a couple of test runs with vvt always off then always on then by looking at the dips in AFR we could work out the ideal switch points. With vvt running in some areas 10% more fuel was needed which shows how much extra air flow there is. I didn't get a whole heap of tuning time but loaded up and off to the track I went. Still running low boost the first run netted a .122 R/T, 2.087 60ft and a 13.191@105.84mph. Second run netted a .039 R/T, 2.159 60ft and a 13.105@108.36. Third run I tried launching in 2nd, it bogged so I kicked the clutch and it hooked up the best it ever has. Result was a 0.091 R/T, 2.567 60ft, and 13.476@107.58mph. Slow 60ft due to bogging so if I get the launch nailed and good run it might go for a 12 on low boost and soft tune. Unfortunately the oil return from the turbo developed a crack so rather than spread oil all over the track and risk a ban it was back on the trailer and an early finish to the night but they car felt great and happy with the result with low boost and a very quick tune. Consistently cutting sub .13 lights now so just need to learn how to change gear The engine runs 8.0:1 pistons so even with a TRD headgasket the compression ratio will still be low so more boost should wake it up, plus peak timing is very conservative at the moment. More tuning and more boost should result in good power gains - time will tell! Anyway winter is coming so there's always next season! There are some winter events starting in June so hopefully will make those. Thanks to old man Kris, Ryan, Mattface, Karl and Joe for the help this season

I ran those for years on my first 4agte. Idles fine etc. Have had other engines come thru that ive swapped 550's for better spray pattern injectors of the same size and they have picked up power at the same boost etc. The better spray pattern/atomisation does make a difference if you can be bothered changin plugs and/or running ballasts. From memory denso make a 550cc injector with the stock plug, can't remember the impedance though,

You could just run a new feed off the ignition barrel on the ON circuit. Remember to include a fuse.

Will fit the stock rail but plugs need changing and ballast resistors need to be fitted. Both easy to do. Will fit the stock rail but plugs need changing and ballast resistors need to be fitted. Both easy to do.

Spray some engine start or similar around the injector seals into the head, have had quite a few customers cars thru with high idle problems and its been cracked or hard seals.

You can weld a bung onto the sump and run a temp sensor there - fit it on the firewal side for easier/tidier wiring. And as mentioned above for the oil pressure you can run from the factory oil light location using a tee. I can't remember if its Fragola or XRP that make a specific fitting thats metric male into the block, metric female for the factory sensor straight out, and an imperial 1/8npt thread for the aftermarket sensor out of the side. If you make the tee up using brass fittings make sure you use a steel male/male straight fitting into the block. Ive seen brass male fittings snap from vibration in the past - messy and tragic...

Mild steel schedule40, 32mm nominal bore steam pipe bends are what I use most of the time. They come in 180's, long or short radius 90's and 45's

Bridge the pins at the ecu instead, you might have a break in one of the wires from the diagnostic port. Rapid flash means no codes.

It wont bolt on directly no, you can weld a new plate onto the plenum to make them fit if you really wanted. From memory I think it was the 5mge that has a 60mm throttle body that fits with same TPS.

Go for Mitsi 510cc or 560cc injectors - they have a very good spray pattern for a OEM injector.