Stu

Ah ok, ignore the NSW then. You chould be getting 12v on the starter trigger when the key is on start. If not then check the main fuses. The start trigger feeds from the ignition barrel so you could also check voltage there. Usually a big black wire with white line.

If the water temp sensor isn't plugged in the ecu thinks the engine is dead cold (what ever the coldest temperature is on its compensation tables) and will generally throw a shit ton of fuel at the engine for crank enrichment and cold start enrichment till its warm. Ive found some Toyota ecus wont start if the water temp sensor is unplugged or faulty. Likely not the cause but worth checking.

Use a multimeter and check that the trigger wire (single pin plug on the starter solenoid) gets 12v when your key is on start. Assuming its manual? As in an Auto there is a neutral start switch cut out if your not in park/neutral.

Cold start/warm up enrichment does increase the AFR while the engine is warming up, and condensation is normal especially if its cold. I wouldn't worry about it unless you have bad running/idle issues.

Yes thats true - bit tricky if you dont have the software. I believe its still available for download though

Water temp sensor for the ecu plugged in and working? Any ecu codes?

Ive used Aeromotive, Turbosmart, Sard, and Tomei regs. All fine as long as they are adequately sized for the application and you buy a genuine unit. There are several bulletins released showing how to spot fakes.

You'll probably find that the supercharger is producing boost way earlier than a turbo would so the factory ecu isn't mapped to supply correct fuel/timing in those load cells. Have you had a wideband on it to see whats going on?

What engine management are you using?

No problem. Be sure to check the ballasts resistance before using them to check they're adequate

Sadly no that doesnt work with a 4e/5e ecu. You can run COP if your engine/ecu has multicoils as you can convert the COP to run wasted spark too, but single coil wont work.

I said that above, its the 12v feed to the ballasts. When using ballasts the wiring goes 12v feed > (ballasts white wire) > ballasts > (ballasts black wire) > injectors 12v side of injectors plug. Other side of injectors plug runs direct to the ecu injector drives.

You can make a manual ecu work on an auto, theres not alot of difference. I'd just see if that fcd has an adjustment screw to slightly lower the clamp voltage - its almost there so will need minimal adjustment

Well that makes alot more sense. Just trace from the ecu end then as you will know the pin id's from the factory ecu. NE is the 24tooth wheel, G1 is sync, G- is common, Igt is ignitor trigger. Then just trace and connect the engine end to suit.

If the light goes away it will likely just be 34 which is just map limit. My guess is the fcd needs adjusting to clamp at slightly less voltage so map limit isn't read by the ECU. It's probably right on the limit currently

Ah yeah low impedance units. Ideally you'd want that resistor pack to be at least 4.5-5ohms per channel

Whats the code thats in diagnostics after the light comes on? 34?

Oh, yeah thats different, sorry assumed it was a different coil assembly. So what are you exactly doing? Is it a 4efe that your converting to 4efte distributor? I say this as the pickups are not the same as inside a 4efte dizzy so I don't think it will work with what ever ecu your using. Black/brown is 12v feed, black will be IG- which comes from the coil negative/ignitor and outputs to the tacho in the dash.

Yeah avoid stainless ones like the plague unless they are made from heavy wall stainless and come with a warranty - this is exactly why I started making them

Thanks Del! Hows that car of yours coming along? Not much else to report with my car, took the wideband out of it as I needed it to tune this thing

Looking pretty good dude!

The four pin plug will be the cam angle sensor pickup wires (NE, G-, G1 and G2) and the other will be the coil power and the tacho output.

Do those two packs share any wiring? It looks like two different packs to me Anyway, normally there will be a single 12v feed wire in that's larger diameter and then two or four output wires. So I'd say white is 12v feed and black is 12v to the injectors. What ecu are you using and what impedance injectors are you want to use? You will need to take that into account when working out if those ballasts are the right size.

How much dwell are you running? 3d table?

Yeah Andy's one pulls quite well now the boost issue has been solved. I'd say with more boost (JAM ecu would help) its would probably be a nice little upgrade The front cover casting is a bit rough in places but the machine work looks to be pretty good. Can't comment on longevity though as its only just gone on.