Stu

When tuning I aim for idle to range from stoich to 15afr.

You can try but the tollerances are very exact and making changes can effect the wave form it produces. Just swap in another dizzy with better pickups would be my advice

Take a look at the pick ups for the trigger wheel inside the dizzy - any metal swarf or corrosion will not be helping.

If its on decel then the engine will cut fuel so you'll have lean afrs - nice and lean for cruise and idle is good and I wouldn't worry about it unless its not driving well or miss firing

I've had trigger error faults due to corroded trigger wheel pick ups. Pull the dizzy cap and rotor off and take a look at the pickups. Do you have a datalog showing the erratic rpm? Does your ecu have a trigger error count or inbuilt osciliscope?

Pull the cap and rotor off and look at the pickups for the 24tooth trigger wheel - make sure there isn't any metal swarf on them or rust. Have had similar issues on customers cars and this has been the fault.

Definitely don't nana around on a new engine - it has to see some load and don't let it idle for prolonged periods. Id try and find another tps so you can run the stock ecu for the initial run in then swap the link in

Haha same

Which link will you run? I may have a basemap floating around or could make one for you.

Good work on the car - yell out if you need any advice etc, i'm in Auckland too

Dude nice work - dirty VB thou, should be Double Brown tallies!

I think thats the standard type one as it doesnt seem to have the cold start valve that I can see. Maybe hit the thing with some carb clean? Im no expert with carbs - they are filled with witchcraft and voodoo if you ask me.

There are two different carbs used - one is the slide type which is a pain in the ass, the other is the standard venturi type which is only a mild pain in the ass. Can you post up a photo of yours with the air filter off? With the slide type there is a cold start valve on the drivers side that green and black and has a couple of vac lines to it. When this fails it can cause all sorts of issues like the above and hard starting. Might be worth seeing if you can clean it out and/or replace it.

Cheers Andy - come over and put my gearbox back in! Yeah I made those years ago when I first fitted the 4age. They run down to the chassis rails which are fitted with crush tubes, and there is a bar that runs across the front between the rails too. Probably overkill but basically to give it a bit more strength.

To get the codes you will need to bridge TE and E1 on the diag plug. Warm ignitor is ok, if its super hot it could be the cause.

Looking awesome dude

Haha minor teething issues - its drives super well on the street but just havent made it stick on the track yet. First good clean run even at this low boost should be pretty quick. Priced up a new diff this morning - wont be buying one of those in a hurry

Still heaps to tidy up and its not had a clean or polish yet but its getting there

Update time The above photos were from a night drag event a few weeks back. Had another problematic time and didn't really get a clean run. A combination of crap driving to start with, a rev limit set too low (hang over from trying to solve the trigger error I was having), a cv boot popping off and covering everything with grease, and finally the alternator crapping out which didnt help. Back home I ripped the alternator off and swapped it for a spare I had. Also got around to changing the power wiring to the coils to run from two relays instead of one along with larger wiring. I al

Have you checked for diagnostic codes? How hot is the igniter when it cuts out?

Usually the idle up under the throttle body is the culprit. Pull it off, clean it all out and try again.

That 86 is tidy! Hows the tuning going?

No worries.

Yep, its a super easy conversion

Directly bolts in - little no changes.