Stu

If there is fuel entering the cylinders it means the injectors are pulsing so that would mean the ecu is getting power (actually just the fuel pump working is also and indication the ecu has power as the pump will only run when the ecu is sensing engine rpm). If you can hear the injectors clicking then again you will know the ecu is triggering (from pickups inside the dizzy telling the ecu what the engine position is). Assuming you have checked there is no spark at the end of the plug lead, just work your way back step by step to the coil and make sure your getting spark there. If not then

Really?!!! Its advise like this you should not listen to. So to test your theory and assuming base factory fuel pressure is 43psi ish - then at say 10psi of boost you'll need 10bar more fuel pressure ie 145psi more? Most fuel pumps are not capable of going that high!!! Even a Bosch 044 is only capable of 5 bar.

As above totally! Wild guesses will destroy your engine... I'd hope your software will show the 3D view of your fuel map and I'm assuming you have a tune that its running on and driving in vac load zones ie 100kpa and under. First thing I'd do it make sure the fuel map looks nice and progressive/smooth and isn't all erratic. The ignition table should be similar to a degree although there are reasons for dips and spikes. This will give you a starting point to tune from and its much easier than having a mine field of a map. Then just start tuning from there. Start low and build up - set

What ecu is the car running? If not stock has it been setup to run from the ecu? Might just need configuring?

When its running check to see what voltage is at the battery - normal charge should show 13.8-14.5 volts ish. It sounds like the regulator as died - not a major

As above, its not that simple. Depends on the ecu and its capabilities/resolution as well. What ecu are you using?

I'm running the stock blacktop dizzy as its got the 24tooth and sync pickup needed - have taken the dizzy cover and rotor off and just blanked them with a aluminium cover. Tuning quads can be fun and there are several ways you can do it. NA its usually recommended to run RPM vs TPS tables. You can do the same for turbo and just turn on a 4D table for boost fueling, or run the usual RPM vs MGP tables and try to get a good even signal from the quads manifold to the ecu

Cheers! Sunday we had a good session road tuning and have the run in tune pretty well sorted. Plenty more timing still to put in it so there is power to be had but being conservative still its done a few more k's. 162kpa (9 psi) and touching on 8000rpm. Feels very strong, sounds awesome (so angry) and my dodgy eyetromer wheel alignment is actually pretty good. On one of the first runs had a moment when the boost controller spiked to 18psi for some reason and its instantly smoked the tires in 4th so ripped the lines off so its back to base spring pressure - ive got a different solinoid to

Suspension setup plays the big part, that and the preload on the clutch plates inside the diff (assuming its clutch type). A good suspension guy can setup a your alignment so bias for a bit of torque steer

The PC Link software for the G4+ ecus is awesome - im only using traditional mode tuning currently but the new modelled mode VE tuning is pretty trick! I've got quite a few inputs and outputs so there is alot to setup and tweak so even though the main fueling/ignition shouldn't take too long, the rest can takes ages to sort. This is a snapshot of the fuel tuning page - the ecu is offline so don't read into the numbers too much, this was from an original setup file when I first fired up the ecu. I'll do a breakdown of the whole setup at some stage

Yes although a mate of mine KPR (holds the NZ fastest EP title) will be helping as its too hard to tune and drive at the same time.

Thanks! Another good day - solved the oil leak (loose fitting on the block oil line adapter), removed the under body brace so it doesn't grade the driveway, raised the rear 15mm, adjusted the panhard a bit, took the steering rack out and make a couple of adjustments, refitted and gave it a rough alignment, couple more heat cycles and some basic road tuning. Have had it up to 4psi, part throttle and 5500-6000rpm now - feels pretty strong and its not slow even with so little load. Map needs a bit of work but im running it on the lean side just as its running in and don't want to risk any bo

It runs, its loud, its angry, it drops oil, it smokes the tires. Win!

Pop the gauge cluster out and tag into the illumination wire - nice and easy

Depends if you have issues with excessive heat in the engine bay? The idea is the heat is transferred through to the exhaust rather than radiating out of the exhaust manifold and turbo. I haven't ever bothered wrapping the turbo manifold as it can get a bit tricky wrapping between the runners, but I quite often wrap the turbo downpipe. Alot of people say this increases corrosion but to be honest I havent seen any worth worrying about after a couple of years of running. Personal preference I guess.

Davies Craig is another option

Nice!

Ah, yeah 5efe rods are a fair bit smaller - I have run a stock 5efe with a hybrid vf10/ct9 turbo on stock ecu before without any issues but only 12psi boost. It ran like that for years and the engine ended up in another car and last i heard was still going strong. Key thing is the tune - needs to be conservative timing and rpm limit if you want to run lots of boost. Ideally a 5efhe rods/4efte pistons combo would handle what you want to achieve.

You didn't say anything about wires missing. The head light wiring runs across from the driver side to the fuse box. At worst you would need to cut the wires back and start again? If you follow the wire colours its not hard to wire up. Good luck anyway

^ rad

Haha - I wish I could make it over, see the family friends and where the old man grew up.

You can mod the headlight loom to work pretty easily

Bugger - sounds like #4 isn't happy, possibly a ring land? Take the cam cover off and double check the valves are doing what they should but its unlikely thats the issue. Taking the head off and then taking the piston out is your best bet. Might fluke it and just need one new piston.