Stu

No worries. Maybe try some 330cc Mazda injectors, should be ok on the stock or JAM ecu. Use a rrfpr if your running out of fuel on boost

You don't have to change any of the interior wiring or the chassis fusebox/wiring (headlights etc). Just mod the engine loom and your away

14volts means its charging although I'm surprised it started with 10v - its likely to be the battery.

Haha yeah I don't think it will be very good on a 1300, especially a 2e.

How is the tacho being fed? From the original coil or direct from the ecu?

Two engine looms is a pretty ugly way of doing it but i guess if your that way inclinded it will work. With a bit of effort you can make it all plug and play with the stock fuse box and chassis/dash looms. Just change the engine loom around. There isnt very many differences between 4efe and 4efte wiring anyway. Start by comparing the pin outs of both ecu's, you'll find alot of the pins are the same. Where the 4efe pins are in different positions just pop the pins out of the plugs and swap them around to suit the 4efte ecu. Missing wires just rob from the 4efte loom and lay into the 4e loom and connect as required. Wrap then its all done and tidy.

Did you end up trying the ze injectors on the JAM ecu?

Yeah those Supra pumps are good - they handle a bit of voltage too so you can step the feed up a few volts to make them flow a bit more. By personal preference I'm not a fan of surge tanks/external pumps unless you have lack of fuel issues. Just seems simpler to fit the best pump possible into the tank then worry about external pumps/surge if its still not enough fuel. I dunno, that's my mentality anyway and seems to work in my scenario. My turbo is a bit of a mongrel - loosely based on a 60 trim T4e (P trim). 360 thrust kitted, competition bearings with different front wheel and milled out T3 exhaust housing. I never really got it on song with the last setup but I've built everything to suit the turbo this time around so here's hoping...

Gimme

044s are definitely louder than Walbros, but its worth it as they're better pumps. Since the tank and cradle are modified to make the pump intank rather than external its pretty noisy as the tanks a big drum haha. Those supra pumps are pretty good - I rate them over Walbros any day and have fitted them to all sorts of cars over the years. We also used to use the bosch pumps from old 3.8ltr Holden Commodores which used to be pretty easy to find at wreckers etc. No stereo The last engine was 285hp at the wheels on 16psi and 98 octane gas. It did run a little bit more boost later on and it woke up a bit (turbo really is too big) but it never made it back on the dyno. There were lots of bottle necks with that last setup and it was a wrecker engine so I'm expecting quite a bit more this time around and more boost and probably E85 at some stage. The loom is taking a while as I'm setting it all up similar to Mil-spec thou obviously not as hardout. No crazy concentric twist or bulkhead adapters but its pretty tidy and all proper shielding and waterproof connectors etc.

Lazy picture-less update. Currently balls deep in wiring this bitch - about half way thru so all going well another week and I should be powering up the ecu. Have redone the battery mounting in the boot, feeds via isolator, charge circuit, uprated fuel pump relay/wiring and currently working on the uprated coil +ve feed. Have had the main chassis stuff powered up - all works except the tail lights are out by the looks - have a vague memory of stealing the bulbs out of it at some stage so will check that. Finished the fuel side of things then when checking the 044 pump realised its shagged (from sitting so long no doubt) so had to buy another one - it was a cost I didn't need. Tank out to refit, back in and tested it to 65psi so far. Had one injector o ring weep a bit of fuel so will replace them all before doing a 90psi test (not that is should ever need to get that high). Forgot how freakin loud the 044's are but at 700hp capable its worth the extra fitment aggravation/noise. Ignitors are mounted, coils are mounted. Had heaps of other distractions lately - currently working on a AE111 4agte that I wired up a while back, a AE92 Levin I wired with a Blacktop, and a EP82 that I'm doing a COP and a few other upgrades on. Pictures later Ta ta for now

Bingo

No real point. If anything the stock external coil is better for longevity as its away from the heat of the engine. COP would be good but you really need an aftermarket ecu to make the most from them

Yeah 12ohm would mean that the ecu is seeing the same current draw as the original injectors. HOWEVER - I'm not sure on how well the JAM ecu will do adjusting for the extra fuel supplied right across the map. Bear in mind that say at idle the ze injectors will be pumping in nearly 24% more fuel. The narrow band oxygen sensor will tell the ecu its running rich but I don't have any idea on how far the JAM ecu will be able to scale that back to normal idle AFR targets. Its likely to run like a dog/foul plugs (and potentially run hot with that much fuel) until the map is adjusted back. Let alone at boost - Im not sure if the narrow band sensor does anything at all in the positive pressure zone. Just something to consider.

If its the backing plate originally that came from an auto then it will have an opening so the torque converter can be unbolted when removing the box

Not with a JAM ecu but i've fitted ballast resistors to lots of cars that I've installed aftermarket ecu's into. Ohms law means you can work it all out. First you need to work out the existing current the injector drive is capable of. The stock ecu setup is 1x inj drive supplies 2x injectors, so: Standard injectors are 14.8 ohm from memory so using say 14v / 14.8ohms = 0.95 amps x2 per injector drive = 1.89 amps (with some rounding) 4agze injectors at 2.9 ohm so 14v / 2.9ohms = 4.83amps x 2 per injector drive = 9.66 amps (with some rounding) aka way too much Ballast resistors need to be wired into the +ve feed side of the injector wiring and you need one per injector so: To be exact the calculations are: Original resistance per injector less 4agze resistance per injector will give you the required size of the ballast resistors ie 14.8 - 2.9 = 11.9ohms But you don't need to be too exact - as a rule of thumb for aftermarket ecus I use 4.7ohm 50watt ballast resistors which work out fine. Calcs for using 4.7ohm injectors are: 4agze injectors at 2.9ohm + 4.7ohm = 7.6ohm so 14v / 7.6ohm = 1.84 amps x2 injectors = 3.68amps which should be fine on the stock injector drive Oh by the way, don't use small 1w/5w resistors that you can buy at a electrical component store - they'll burn out almost instantly. its better to use either 25w or ideally 50w ballasts. If you mount them on a piece of ali and mount them in the engine bay they wont get hot from load. You can see them in this photo: Confused?

+1

It all depends on who is going to install and tune it - have a chat to them and find out what they are confident with. Personally I've setup Link/Vipec, Microtech, Haltech, Wold3D, Megasquirt and Autronic. Also played with a Motec although havent wired one in yet. All are more than capable however I prefer the Link G4+ units as they're so user friendly and quick to setup/tune. Local support for the ecu is also something you should consider. No point going for an ecu you can't call up the maker and get some tech advise if you need it. If your going down the Megasquirt route make sure you understand VR inputs in my experience they're a bit hit and miss and quite often need high levels of trigger filtering. Capable ecu's for the price however.

Water temp sensor is critical and they wont run if its not plugged in. That or how low is your battery? When cranking due to the current draw the voltage drops quite a bit, often low enough that the ecu shuts down.

Look on the end of the starter, theres a terminal on the starter solinoid. Its the smaller cylinder on the side of the starter if you didnt know

Pretty sure its the starter trigger, there's no other wires out of that section of the loom that it could be Wrong plug for the knock sensor, that plug runs out of the end of the injector wiring loom

Starter trigger? Hard to see if you have one connected already or not

Thats a sweet photo!

After a couple of heat cycles and you've dropped the start up mono weight oil out its best to not pussy around and have plenty of accel/decel so the rings bed in just don't rev it out too aggressively ie to redline and try not to run at the same rpm or idle for too long. If you nana it you'll glaze the bores and the rings wont bed in. I usually run 50-100k then drop the oil again then start progressively raising the boost/rev limit from there. A guy I know over here builds very high level RB30/32's and hes starting to lean on his new engines after only 30mins or so and he's yet to have any failures/issues and his engines are used all over the world setting all sorts of records.

Ah crap, you'll have to try to id the wires maybe by wiring colours from the above kit, and also deduction by removing each pin and seeing what does/doesn't work. You can also trace backwards from the cluster itself by just following the tracks from the bulbs components. Its time consuming but not difficult.