Stu

No worries. Maybe try some 330cc Mazda injectors, should be ok on the stock or JAM ecu. Use a rrfpr if your running out of fuel on boost

You don't have to change any of the interior wiring or the chassis fusebox/wiring (headlights etc). Just mod the engine loom and your away

14volts means its charging although I'm surprised it started with 10v - its likely to be the battery.

Haha yeah I don't think it will be very good on a 1300, especially a 2e.

How is the tacho being fed? From the original coil or direct from the ecu?

Two engine looms is a pretty ugly way of doing it but i guess if your that way inclinded it will work. With a bit of effort you can make it all plug and play with the stock fuse box and chassis/dash looms. Just change the engine loom around. There isnt very many differences between 4efe and 4efte wiring anyway. Start by comparing the pin outs of both ecu's, you'll find alot of the pins are the same. Where the 4efe pins are in different positions just pop the pins out of the plugs and swap them around to suit the 4efte ecu. Missing wires just rob from the 4efte loom and lay into the 4e loo

Did you end up trying the ze injectors on the JAM ecu?

Yeah those Supra pumps are good - they handle a bit of voltage too so you can step the feed up a few volts to make them flow a bit more. By personal preference I'm not a fan of surge tanks/external pumps unless you have lack of fuel issues. Just seems simpler to fit the best pump possible into the tank then worry about external pumps/surge if its still not enough fuel. I dunno, that's my mentality anyway and seems to work in my scenario. My turbo is a bit of a mongrel - loosely based on a 60 trim T4e (P trim). 360 thrust kitted, competition bearings with different front wheel and mi

Gimme

044s are definitely louder than Walbros, but its worth it as they're better pumps. Since the tank and cradle are modified to make the pump intank rather than external its pretty noisy as the tanks a big drum haha. Those supra pumps are pretty good - I rate them over Walbros any day and have fitted them to all sorts of cars over the years. We also used to use the bosch pumps from old 3.8ltr Holden Commodores which used to be pretty easy to find at wreckers etc. No stereo The last engine was 285hp at the wheels on 16psi and 98 octane gas. It did run a little bit more boost later on and

Lazy picture-less update. Currently balls deep in wiring this bitch - about half way thru so all going well another week and I should be powering up the ecu. Have redone the battery mounting in the boot, feeds via isolator, charge circuit, uprated fuel pump relay/wiring and currently working on the uprated coil +ve feed. Have had the main chassis stuff powered up - all works except the tail lights are out by the looks - have a vague memory of stealing the bulbs out of it at some stage so will check that. Finished the fuel side of things then when checking the 044 pump realised its sh

Bingo

No real point. If anything the stock external coil is better for longevity as its away from the heat of the engine. COP would be good but you really need an aftermarket ecu to make the most from them

Yeah 12ohm would mean that the ecu is seeing the same current draw as the original injectors. HOWEVER - I'm not sure on how well the JAM ecu will do adjusting for the extra fuel supplied right across the map. Bear in mind that say at idle the ze injectors will be pumping in nearly 24% more fuel. The narrow band oxygen sensor will tell the ecu its running rich but I don't have any idea on how far the JAM ecu will be able to scale that back to normal idle AFR targets. Its likely to run like a dog/foul plugs (and potentially run hot with that much fuel) until the map is adjusted back. Let

If its the backing plate originally that came from an auto then it will have an opening so the torque converter can be unbolted when removing the box

Not with a JAM ecu but i've fitted ballast resistors to lots of cars that I've installed aftermarket ecu's into. Ohms law means you can work it all out. First you need to work out the existing current the injector drive is capable of. The stock ecu setup is 1x inj drive supplies 2x injectors, so: Standard injectors are 14.8 ohm from memory so using say 14v / 14.8ohms = 0.95 amps x2 per injector drive = 1.89 amps (with some rounding) 4agze injectors at 2.9 ohm so 14v / 2.9ohms = 4.83amps x 2 per injector drive = 9.66 amps (with some rounding) aka way too much Ballast resistors nee

+1

It all depends on who is going to install and tune it - have a chat to them and find out what they are confident with. Personally I've setup Link/Vipec, Microtech, Haltech, Wold3D, Megasquirt and Autronic. Also played with a Motec although havent wired one in yet. All are more than capable however I prefer the Link G4+ units as they're so user friendly and quick to setup/tune. Local support for the ecu is also something you should consider. No point going for an ecu you can't call up the maker and get some tech advise if you need it. If your going down the Megasquirt route make sure yo

Water temp sensor is critical and they wont run if its not plugged in. That or how low is your battery? When cranking due to the current draw the voltage drops quite a bit, often low enough that the ecu shuts down.

Look on the end of the starter, theres a terminal on the starter solinoid. Its the smaller cylinder on the side of the starter if you didnt know

Pretty sure its the starter trigger, there's no other wires out of that section of the loom that it could be Wrong plug for the knock sensor, that plug runs out of the end of the injector wiring loom

Starter trigger? Hard to see if you have one connected already or not

Thats a sweet photo!

After a couple of heat cycles and you've dropped the start up mono weight oil out its best to not pussy around and have plenty of accel/decel so the rings bed in just don't rev it out too aggressively ie to redline and try not to run at the same rpm or idle for too long. If you nana it you'll glaze the bores and the rings wont bed in. I usually run 50-100k then drop the oil again then start progressively raising the boost/rev limit from there. A guy I know over here builds very high level RB30/32's and hes starting to lean on his new engines after only 30mins or so and he's yet to have

Ah crap, you'll have to try to id the wires maybe by wiring colours from the above kit, and also deduction by removing each pin and seeing what does/doesn't work. You can also trace backwards from the cluster itself by just following the tracks from the bulbs components. Its time consuming but not difficult.