Stu

Looks good dude!

Correct, typo on my behalf. Use the spare DI as a knock input from your detset?

You can run without them, just set your idle slightly higher at say 1000rpm so it doesn't stall if your turning at idle (not often)

To be honest I'd just get another loom from a wrecker and keep it to swap back in if you want to revert to stock

You can make a 4age fit if you find a K50 from behind a 3au commonly found in a AE85. Swap the K series tail shaft housing onto the 3a K50 and you have a 4age gearbox that will bolt straight into the KP with no gearbox cross member, clutch cable or driveshaft mods, just need engine mounts. Down side is K50's are weak as piss but the conversion is simple. Otherwise you'll need to find a T50 and go thru all the customising required. Motivation for you:

If you have a timing light then knock the base timing back a bit and see if it still does it.

Your going to have to make some significant changes to the loom so its not going to be a pin to pin wire up. You are better off to strip the loom and remake it to suit the application and don't use the adapter. I always sit down and plan out the system first then wire accordingly. You need to work out things like: are you going to run the COP with individual drives or as a wasted spark setup? What inlet manifold and therefore what idle up are you going to use so do you need an ? Will you run the factory radiator fan from the link? You will also need to modify the tacho to work with a low le

Just needs a touch more low and it would be spot on! Love the dog shots by the way

I've wired a lot of Links into starlets. The first thing you need to do is work out what options you want to run and map out what each aux out/digital input/analog input etc is going to do then work out what needs to go to what. To be honest your better modifying the loom to benefit from the all the capabilities of the Link. I've just finished a 5efte wire up with coil on plug via a G4 Atom and most of the loom has been changed.

Looks great dude!

Awesome! Sometimes it can take a ecu reset to make the code go away but sounds like your all go!

As said above, the signal wire from the knock sensor must be completely shielded from just before the plug on the engine all the way through to about 100mm from the ecu where the shielding is earthed to signal ground from the ecu. If you have any joins etc then that will not be helping. The shielding should only be grounded at the ecu end where it runs to the signal ground pin on the ecu. I've fixed this issue on quite a few starlets and its always been a fault with the shielding in the section from the injector wiring covers to the knock sensor so there should be no reason to pull the whole l

Which ecu are you running? Able to get a code?

Here's a website you can use to reference the part numbers against: http://www.robietherobot.com/storm/mapsensor.htm

The genuine GM units are very good and are commonly used in high power setups - just make sure your buying a 3/5bar unit when bidding for any off ebay etc. The part numbers will tell you which version it is.

The factory tacho actually reads from the negative (IG-) side of the coil - its a high level drive. Don't run it from the +ve side. If you are taking the stock gauge cluster out its the white wire on the white 12pin plug (assuming its a EP82). Easy way to double check is check for continuity from the IG- pin on the diagnostic plug to the dash plug.

Yeah sounds like a bearing has gone and possibly spun. Best to try and avoid running the engine any more incase it scores the crank or rod too much

Nearly all - there are exceptions like 7mgte and a few others

Sorry there isn't any videos - its winter here but come this summer i'll be getting it out to a few track days etc and will get some then. I think there might be an old drag racing youtube clips around from Meremere but its probably 7-8 years old now Re the tyre sizes, I've got several sets of wheels for the car but with the 14inch equips I really wanted a snug fitment. The 45 series tyres were awesome but the overall tyre height meant the car had very little road clearance but still had a huge amount of wheel to guard gap which wasn't what I was going for. The 55's provided a taller over

Yes corollas have them but be carefull as 16v 4age tps units spin one way and the 20v units spin the other way. From memory they're a different take up too so are not a direct bolt on.

If you want (and can afford) a RB30, talk to Robbie at RIPS - he's build countless engines of that calibre

Could try taking the selector assembly out of the box (4 bolts on the end and the detent on the top) and make sure nothing is bent inside? Had a couple of customers with gear change issues and this was the problem.

Just remember the narrow band sensor only tells the ecu that its either rich or lean side of stoich (14.7), but not how rich or how lean. That's why its not much help for tuning but can be useful for cruise map adjustments.

heikobe: Sync trigger sits under the 24tooth wheel in the stock dizzy I agree the crank trigger would be advantageous but not mandatory