Stu

Few photos from the gearbox work: Ages ago I threw a litre of oil into the gearbox and found there was a really small but incredibly annoying slow leak. I had been avoiding fixing it and being lazy I was harassing my younger brother Ryan to pull the gearbox out and fix it for me, which he actually did as a Christmas present (rad). Was so un-motivated to do it so stoked he did. It was luck that I had only put a litre of normal gearbox fluid in to check for leaks before putting the redline stuff in or it would have been a waste. Anyway, the below is mainly all Ryans good work, I was just the

Looking great!

Havent left the water temp sensor plug off when you had the head off did you?

Yes

Yeah PK test etc will give you a good idea. To test the injectors (if you think thats it) unplug them all and then check each plug for 12v and earth. Could also swap two injectors around to eliminate the possibility of one being faulty however its pretty rare to be honest

Nah its all plumb, had straight edges and levels in use when I jigged the alignment up. The strut centre is exactly the same and heights are exact left to right.

Ok here you go - this is from a EP82 4efte: Alternator plug top left - alternator post terminal has been cut off as I needed it for a conversion but you can see the wire and how it joins back to the white wire from the alternator plug anyway. This then runs to the fuse box. Starter wire - runs independantly of other wiring straight to the starter post. Note: There are no ground wires to the alternator as said incorrectly said above, or to the starter motor for that matter.

The starter post wire is generally a separate single wire and is sometimes only loosely wrapped with the loom. Looks like that's the one that's missing.

Nah meaning the larger hole in the bottom that runs down into the idle up diaphragm under the throttle body

That should go to the alternator post. To check, using a multimeter check for connectivity between that post and the largest diameter wire on the alternator plug as they join inside the loom about 3/4 of the way back to the fuse box. The starter post cable runs directly from the battery positive and is a single wire. I've got a EP82 charge circuit separated out if you need photos.

Something like this

Or maybe the cleaning solvent may have got into the idle bypass diaphragm under the throttle body. Take the intercooler pipe off again and put your finger over the idle bypass intake hole before the butterfly and see if the idle drops.

Just about, welding it up now (taking a break). Hope to have it on the ground and rolling again this week. Also trying to find a guard roller to borrow, need to tickle the rear arches

Turbo the 1n!! Please!

Pictureless update /lazy Gearbox has been apart and back together again and is now back in the car. Fitted the new suspension, braided brake lines, new sway bar with whiteline bush kit, and refitted the under body brace. Front end drive line is now all done - only item under the car left to do is mod a short section of the exhaust I'm not happy with.

Awesome! Sell me the honeycomb grill!

I replied to your other thread about how to check the wiring but also had a thought that it would pay to check the terminal on the plug as well. Had a couple where the terminal wasn't tight enough and the connection was poor. Does it make any difference with the knock sensor unplugged?

Its a white wire (usually faded to a cream colour) no dashes or lines. Also test the shielding surrounding the signal wire. Note, the shielding should NOT be connected to the engine block and should finish just before the plug. Its connected to the signal ground earths about 100mm up the loom from the ecu.

Yeah believe they are the same.

Iridiums are not so forgiving if they get a good dose of black soot from over fueling, that any you generally wreck them if you try and clean them. But they should be fine as long as your fueling is spot on. Maybe more suited for stock or lightly modified setups. NGK standard plugs are all I ever use (although a different heat range) for the simple reason they're cheap, easily cleaned and commonly available so I don't mind changing them out if need be

I had some custom built Bilstein coil overs in my car for quite a few years and they were awesome. Being self adjusting they got harder the more they got worked. Had some quite heavy springs so the ride wasnt exactly soft but the handling was awesome.

I just did a quick search on Toyodiy for the crownwheel part number from a EP91 auto and the same part number is used in a number of starlet models so from that you could assume that a LSD centre could be fitted? Seeing as it runs in ATF fluid I wonder if that would make any difference to the LSD clutches engagement.

It would be interesting to see if an uprated torque converter could be fitted. Imagine a nice high stall and transbrake for awesome launches. Would recommend a big trans fluid cooler to help with longevity

Walbro pumps are a common upgrade and fit with relative ease.

It could just be a clutch plate type LSD with a lot of preload? If it is and its too much for your liking its easy to shave the shim down for a lower break away torque