Stu

Looks great!

Wheres the photos

Yes it will run fine, the ecu will use the oxy sensor to compensate to a degree Ive run a 5efte in s 2et ecu before which worked fine

Coil overs give the best tuneability to get things setup to suit your preference. With spring/shock combos its definitely possible to find a good combination of adjustable shocks (say GABs or Bilsteins - just for example as there are a number of good brands available) that with good spring choice (even get some made as ive done before) that will perform really well but there is generally compromise required in ride and for the expense of getting a good setup you may as well go to coil overs and have the rull range of tuneability. With coil overs often the shock quality is better especially

Are they a sequential box? I thought the most ones were just a sequential shifter assembly?

On idle they do run lean, even with a tuned ecu the idle targets are around there, basically just enough for it to run. And they do richen up for cold start then lean back again. However not sure why its lumpy off boost, as above maybe try a different o2 sensor? Or try unplugging it and see what happens (should in theory run slightly richer)

Thats awesome! Pretty jealous about the clutch!

Hmm interesting If you can be bothered, you could test the injectors without the engine running and make sure they're all working? Unplug the coil and the fuel pump and then either plug in a spare dizzy and spin it by hand or pop your one out and spin it. The engine doesn't turn but as the trigger is telling the ecu it is so the injectors will operate. See if its making the sound your hearing.

As long as you have a loom that plugs into your ecu you can make it work if its auto or not

Are you sure its the injectors and not something in the valve train making the noise?

Injectors do click as part of normal operation so I wouldn't be too worried about it. What ecu are you running?

Phone camera makes it look a bit shitty sorry

I could be wrong but the one I measure had a different diameter.

Looks great!

Nice work!!! With the rear dics, did you measure the inner bearing diameters comparing the EP70 with EP82? Years ago I found there was a difference in size that needed a tapper shim to correct - luckily I found a Corsa GP Turbo which has right size and bolted straight on. Just interested if you had the same issue or if yours was ok.

Out of interest does it make any difference if you unplug the map sensor? If it does it might be something else. Could start with a quick check to make sure the vac line is plumbed up right and there's actually pressure at the map sensor end (ie not blocked) but checking there is vacuum on the pipe at idle. . Next I'd check the wiring is ok - just use a multimeter to test continuity. One pin will be 5v when ign on, one is signal earth, and the other is signal to the ecu. Failing that might pay to try a different map sensor.

Interesting yours is cream, the looms I have in stock sre cream. As long as you use the right wire from the knk pin on the ecu you will be fine

Yeah definitely and its a work horse, its probably got used 30hours out of a 40hr week for 3-4 years and never had any issues other than I melted a couple of torches. Have gone water cooled now

Tell me about it!! Mine was about $7k NZ edit: Hmm, that was supposed to be reply to kavan-k's post

Millers are a really good brand, up there with Lincoln Electric etc

Physically it'll bolt in, but he'll need to block up the injector ports into the head if he wants to run it on a carb (its not that hard to do)

I believe that they are fixed - its one of the reasons why I like the clutch pack type LSD as you can set them up the way you want

Water temp sensor isn't the single wire one for the dash gauge but the green plug two wire that runs to the ecu. One wire is signal earth, other runs to THW on the ecu. I don't think it will be the TPS as on most 4efte's its only a switch style TPS for off idle and not a variable signal (like 4ages for example). It would happen all the time and not just if its cold. Have you checked all the plugs/leads/rotor/dizzy cap etc?

Thanks dude, more to come shortly, just waiting till I finish it before posting. The diff preload sets the breakaway torque ie the amount of slip required for the LSD to lock up. You don't want this to be too slack or you will get alot of one wheeling going on. The less torque the slower it will be to lock up, the more and it'll be quicker. You have to be carefull with diffs to get it right as if its too tight it can make the car a bitch to drive around corners at slow speeds - especially front wheel drives. And pays to always make sure its not set to 2way or it'll lock up on decel whi

See if you can get a manual ecu - few more revs and slightly more aggressive midrange (although emanage would sort that). Is the drivers side shaft two piece aka with hanger bearing? Makes HUGE difference.