Stu

On the underside of the throttle body is a idle up mechanism that's activated by the temperature of the water fed to it. Quite often and over time they get some rusty/gunk build up that causes the diaphragm to pulse the engine revs like your describing.You'll need to take the throttle body off and unscrew the cover and clean the inside, it pays to check and clean out the water lines too if they're gunked up. Just be careful to note which line goes where as two of the lines are water and the other two are vac lines from the power steering and you don't want to put them back around the wrong way.

The bolt pattern/spacing is different from EP71 to EP82/91. Swap the plates over and the struts bolt in rather than hacing to drill out the holes. Not sure what the rules are like over there but here it wouldn't pass an inspection with the body holes drilled out.

Hand made stainless, tig welded including the muffler

Oil leak wont be causing the idle issue but needs to be fixed. The o'ring will have perished or been damaged, its a cheap standard part from Toyota and takes all of 5 minutes to fix, just check and reset the timing afterwards as you have to pop the dizzy out to do it. Idle problem is likely caused by rusty/crappy water or gunk in the idle up mechanism in the bottom of the throttle body. Rip the throttle body and waters lines off and give the whole system a flush. 95% of the time this solves the problem.

As above. Try to find some EP91 GAB struts if you can, they have adjustable shocks but fixed spring platform. I've had them in my EP71's before and they fit well (just need to swap the top hats in the front so they bolt in) and they make the car sit level front to back which as stated above is not always the case. Sorry this is the only photo I can find at short notice - let me know if you want more.

Like this

Rear sway bars you can make but you have to get them hardened afterwards - generally its cheaper to buy them. Nice work on the panhard above, only down side is you have to take it off to adjust. Use the caster adjuster found in the rear in a lot of later model Toyotas with left hand/right hand thread and you can adjust it without having to take the bar off.

If you spin your front suspension top hats 180 degrees you'll get more caster/better traction

Morgey - thanks dude Andy - Yeah bro genuine wheels. Pop over for a geez, assume your back from the trip now? Not quite drivable, just finishing the suspension setup then back into the engine. Pretty close.

Got the better size tires on now, I think thats it sorted finally

Thanks dude. Its definitely not slow - had it pretty well dialled up and it handled pretty well considering. You soon learn how to apply the power that's for sure - progressive throttle rather than just standing on it

With the next size up in tires I should be fine - ideally around 65-70mm to the sway bar mounts.

Sexy but too low to actually drive ~30mm ground clearance from sway bar mounts. Going up a tire size then see what happens - struts are max low in the rear so will turret that in the next few weeks, just ordering the plates now

I'll just leave this here for now and update when I get a bit futher along

Nice!

Make one? They're extremely easy to make

Could you setup an extra sensor using the abs trigger wheels and input that way?

Awesome! Colour is pretty sweet

The front lips are pretty rare over here too! I've got an average condition set but the freight would be a killer

Rad

Small world aye bro! Bring your car over, we'll swap the engine from Garreths while hes not looking

I would check your wiring, sounds like the map sensor wiring is incorrect

If the white smoke has a pungent smell it's likely to be the turbo seals - its fairly common with ct9's. Monitor the water and oil if you think its a head gasket - should see the tell tale signs. You could always get a PK test done to confirm